220+ Hours with the H2S - Ask me anything

Wow! Great to hear that you’ve had a good experience as it’s diametrically opposed to ours. We’ve not been able to keep ours running for two consecutive prints. We’ve spent hours troubleshooting and have purchased three different parts to try to finally fix it. Very frustrating because the four X1Cs we own have been nearly flawless.

We think we’ve narrowed the problem to the filament buffer, although that’s not what the error message says to look for. We’ve purchased two AMS Pro units because the message says there’s a problem with them. They each work perfectly on an X1C machine, but not the H2S.

Sadly, the order for the replacement filament buffer got misplaced due to a “sortation error” according to UPS so we haven’t received it while a dozen boxes of filament did arrive on time that were all ordered at once.

I can’t wait to be able to print reliably, and I suspect it’ll happen soon, but we’ve had this machine for over a month and haven’t been able to print for more than an hour or two. Yes, it can make a nice Benchy, but then it errors-out and we’re down.

Just a quick note: many users have reported buffer issues. While a buffer fault is possible, it’s also worth double-checking PTFE tube seating. On the H2S and H2D, the tubes need to be inserted farther than usual; if they’re not fully seated against the stop, a variety of symptoms can appear—and a new buffer won’t resolve them if the tubes remain short of fully inserted. Not suggesting this is your situation—just highlighting a common, easily overlooked cause.

Could you snap some pics of some of the things that look worn please?

If it doesn’t look like how it did when you first got it, its probably worn! /j

Most things that wear often (consumables) will be:
The hotend silicone sock - if you see any rips or tears in the silicone
The PTFE tubes - if you see any stripping at the ends of it
The filament cutter - if the printer makes a strange sound or takes too long to cut filament, open up the toolhead and check the cutter if its dull or bent
The purge-wiper - if it has any deformations, tears, or some part of it has been ripped off
(H2D exclusive) The silicone purge-stopper - if its bent or has any tears in the silicone

A little less-than-often wearouts will be listed here:
The build plate - if you see the thin PEI peeling off of it by casting it in the light to see any inconsistencies with the shimmer (a scratched plate is still feasible, that is if the PEI is still on it)
That dammed toolhead fan - if cooling rates are abnormal… open… the… nvm just let someone at the micro center do it for you.
The hotends - place them onto the printer and turn up the heat, run some filament through it and check if it flows properly

Sorry @Riokilos I’ll give you back your post

Not sure who you’re talking to in this thread; me, Dr. PHD MD Esq. Expert 3D Printer Of All Time that came in to bust up my thread with his very cool and impressive flex (who notably brought up the H2D instead of the H2S this thread was meant to be about), or someone else. But for me, at 250 ish hours, there are not parts that will appear worn outside of some freak accident, manufacturing issue, or misuse.

RedDiamond shared some info that is most relevant, describing common wear parts. You won’t likely see anything noticable here though until you hit 2000 hours (or more, depending on the specific part).

For me, the sock/nozzle has a little bit of PETG stringing buildup and I’ve neglected to wipe away, and the Textured PEI sheet has a few spots where the PETG prints maybe didn’t come away cleanly. That’s kind of about it.
I guess the glass panels showing a big of fog on them maybe counts?

Belts, rails, lead screws and everything else can take 1000 hours of print time pretty easy I think (even if you neglect them and skip maintenance items, which i don’t recommend ignoring). My X1C units with far more print hours on them don’t really even have any meaningful wear visible on them unless you’re really looking for it.

Sorry did not mean to hijack your thread. But I think by the time we had Malc asking you about the facts of life we were pretty far off the rails. :joy:

My bad!

We did replace the filament buffer (at our expense) and the printer finally prints reliably. We had already lengthened and fully inserted the tubes, which did not solve the problem.

Before changing the buffer, we would find the magnet displaced in the housing and once found it stuck to the back inner wall of the enclosure. We glued it in place but that did not fix it. We believe we might have reversed polarity of the magnet, which might be important but there’s no way to know as the magnet has no directional markings.

Like other failed parts on our five printers, we buy them two or more at a time to save shipping time in future repairs. We use these printers to produce parts for sale and we can’t tolerate downtime.

Hi, not specific for the H2S, but should I by a concrete plate 50x50 for the H2D if I use the printer in a IKA bror shelf?

Whats the intended purpose? All of the new Bambu printers come with anti-vibration feet installed, so I dont think a concrete slab will do anything for it.

So the printer with the AMS is the only significant weight on that shelf. Otherwise, the shelf will only contain the ventilation unit, some filament, and so on. I suspect this isn’t really very stable. I thought the base plate would add more weight and provide better stability to the entire shelving unit. (Shelf 1.90cmx 65cm x55cm)
IKEA BROR

Any thoughts about it? Is this a bad idea?

I suspect adding more mass will just make it shake with more vigor. :man_shrugging:

One of mine(my original unit) received the “fan is running slowly” notification. 2 days ago. My heart sank as I began working on it, as I realized that “maybe” this wasn’t such an upgrade after all over my P1S units.

I thought at first that the part fan “was” the hot end fan, them I began doing some research. I realize(realized) then, what others were saying about the complexity of working on these units.

It was then, and now that, I, in the back of my mind, know that this is going to sit due to my work schedule. I have “not had” something printing since I received the machine. I’ve pretty much not even printed on my other machine since then. I’m kind of in shock I suppose. I also question their decision to place everything facing backwards. I question customer support, as I was number 196 in the que prior to me leaving for work, and half an hour before my shift was over a notification popped up. 3 rapid fire half one liners, and I was disconnected…

So I’m quite a bit “I don’t even know” right now… I just can’t even bring myself to reinstall the 8 screws that I removed… I withdrew from the beta and I don’t know if I’m really even interested anymore…

I just don’t know…

I also had issues with the buffer getting stuck and making a clicking sound when the print head was in the lower-left corner. It pulled the buffer’s moving part out of alignment, so it couldn’t leave the hole and got stuck. They sent me a replacement, but it had the same problem. They really need to make the hole bigger, though I fixed it by using a longer PTFE tube.

how are you printing TPU 95 with the H2S? Spoolholder on side?

@maxim3D Yes three times on a one month old H2S…And it still keeps giving me the same error of ‘fan to slow, blocked, or not plugged in’ I was printing the ‘Poop shoot’ that was in two parts. The first part printed great with no problem…Halfway through the second part the fan decided to part company from its mounting and just flap about by its wires…It now just sits there gathering dust and spiders while BL try to find the reason why they keep failing to run at the right speed.