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I am using a P1S I have tried multiple different nozzles. 2 separate new ones. replaced my extruder. Done multiple cold pulls over and over. Used a needle to clear the end. Seems to be extruding good, and I start a new print. clogs within the first 3 layers every time. Tried leaving the door open changing fans speeds to higher etc. I don’t know what to do. I literally have printed multiple hundreds of hours with a .2mm nozzle and not had this issue. Now I can’t get through a single print.
Edit 1.
I am using PLA matte. 220 nozzle temp with super tack plate @ 55 degrees. I also have 2 different P1S and have tried with brand new nozzles and both have clogged…
Printing PLA, are you opening the door of your printer + removing the top glass?
Sounds a lot like heat creep. PLA softens at a ridiculously low temp, so just being in an enclosure can get it pre-softened, and jam at the heatbrake the first time it needs to retract.
If you find this helps you, print a “vented riser” many googlable examples, so that you can keep the glass top but still get benefits of gettin the heat out.
Heat creep is what I assumed the issue is. It is very hot here right now, but I just tried again today and it was cooler today. I tried 4 cold pulls and cleaned it really well. Then ran it with no lid and door open. Still clogged on layer 3…
The problem is the 0.2mm profiles have very low flow rates, they are set at 2mmÂł/s or lower for most filaments. When I use my 0.2mm nozzles I bump the speed to 8-12mmÂł/s for PLA Basic and ABS/ASA. When its at 2mmÂł/s the filament sits in the extruder for a very long time and has time to soften from the hot gears. And yes you need to have good ventilation to prevent heat creep.
I would do a max flow test and set the volumetric flow rate between 8-12mmÂł/s to avoid this issue.
Also if you have aftermarket extruder gears that have metal arm that will cause premature heat creep issues. I would suggest to sticking to stock bambu gears.
What I would say is BL has probably done extensive testing to arrive at their default settings and if one is way wide of the defaults I would expect trouble.
I messed with a .2 mm nozzle a little bit back when I first bought it and the prints took longer than I was willing to wait.
Thats a nice sentiment but unfortunately that is not the case for 0.2mm hot end profiles. Its very clear from looking at them and printing with them that the 0.2mm profiles were at best an afterthought, just like 0.8mm profiles.
I have 9000 hours of printing on the bambu printers and the 0.2mm and 0.8mm profiles need some tuning for best results.
Solid bottom/top layers have always been a problem for me when printing with 0.2mm nozzles, on any printer.
I think the cause is just that the nozzle is moved through that solid material for an extended period of time and can’t release any pressure like it can when printing outside walls, or during travel moves.
Which means while printing solid layers a correct flow value is really important. I would begin by lowering it by 1-2 percent.
Another thing that helped me was increasing the first layer height, although your first layer seemed to have printed fine.
My print got further but still failed. Clogged about halfway through. Not convinced it is heat creep. When I went to unclog it, it was a different color in the nozzle up to the tip where it was clogged. a color that it was not printing at the time of it stopping printing. My P1S is not noticing the clog and just keeping going every time. It just keeps going without actually printing once it clogs.
That sounds sort of like the filament gets bound up at nozzle and then extruder spinning it wheels on the filament strand. The switch at that location is either on/off. Maybe remove a few feet/meters of filament because if you have done multiple evolutions of sending filament to printer and rewinding to AMS it may have gotten deformed by extruder and/or primary feeder
Not necessarily. The two wheels that grip the filament have very small notches around their circumference and if those notches get clogged and/or get worn down you end up with smooth wheels that have poor grip. Especially if you have run fiber reenforced through the nozzle. Throw in mild heat creep softening up the filament and making it softer as it goes through those wheels.
pla matte is always a crapshoot in a .2 nozzle and iirc bambu discourages it. it varies wildly depending on the brand but because a matte texture is just filler it can have particles that will more easily clog the nozzle. i’ve had success with printing using my .2 nozzle and matte pla but it does like to clog on occasion.
