I’m curious how safe is adding resistor to the hotend?
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Definitely void warranty if discovered and definitely increase wear. Safe though? IDK.
It’s reasonably safe but I would not ever leave that fully unattended anymore. Adding 10 percent to something already designed to be very hot is going to be able to do it, end of story, but you might start outclassing the glues or whatever nearby on the toolhead. It’s not a great plan, but maybe a trick to keep in your bag for one-offs where it’s of great importance. Get the machine designed for the temps if it is critical to you often. Nothing kills these machines components faster than more than expected heat for long periods of time.
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Ever the contrarian, I’d say even if it went beyond 300 wouldn’t matter. There would be another issue that would have people wanting. Over the years no one is ever happy.
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I wrote about this in reddit and many defended that they print ppa-cf in 300 degrees, which is not optimal for ppa-cf, you can get about 10-15% increase in layer adhesion in 320 degrees according to tests: https://youtu.be/tMeqxeBY0Lk?t=605
And this is not a pure PPA, some PAHT or low crystalline blend with PPA. So i suspect that we could get even higher results with real PPA-CF since in this review he printed with 290 with pure ppa: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IXlrUWSz_xY&t=768s and layer adhesion decreased significantly (plus i suspect bambu’s profile also affected it since they use cooling fan too much).
So i think if they could give us at least 320, i’m not even asking for 350, it will be best deal.
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What is even the point of the encoder with a nozzle that is not perfect (not saying that the second one is useless) but it’s so strange for me. Sure maybe the left will get even better, but the second can mess up the precision
The right still improves for skew and such. I find the right is pretty good except for doing sharp corners where it’s a bit overshot.
@SupportAssistant Hello
Can we suggest an official feedback to create 350 heater kit for those who wants it? Even if it cost 100$ i would gladly purchase it since many people may need this.
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Lets not beat around the bush - gaming the thermistor response curve so it reads lower to what is expected means the hotend will run hotter than designed.
This might be a nothingburger, or it might result in fire. Probably one print you’d want to be nearby for the duration of.
I also thought about that but one user confirmed that x2d used exactly the same heating assembly that used in h2d, same thermistor. As i understand you can even swap between them, so it’s purely artificial limitation and should not he an issue.
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It would make sense to recycle parts to minimise inventory and reduce costs but that doesn’t account for surrounding components that may not have been designed to deal with the additional heat.
The interior designs of the toolheads are different so caution would be advisable if one experiments.
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It might be a good idea to add better insulation around the hotend, rather than just using the silicone sock, to help prevent the other components from being damaged by the heat.
The X2D goes to 300 because (a) not to affect H-series sales, and (b) Prusa core 1 goes to 290.
One day there might be a working HT nozzle kit for both the X2 and the Core 1.
The thermistor line is pretty easy to get to. Just unscrew the left heater cartridge screws behind the nozzle and you have easy access to the two thinner wires.
If you cut one of the thermistor wires and add a 33 ohm resistor, you get 318 degrees of actual nozzle temperature, and the brain box only sees 300, and remains happy.
Since the thermistor is not linear, the bonus here is at 220C nozzle temperature, it is reporting 216.3C to the brain, and at 260C nozzle temperature, it reports 252.4C to the brain.
So for some lower temp filaments you don’t even need to compensate for the change in the filament settings.