.6mm high flow revo nozzle. Got 37mm3/s in the corners and 46mm3/s on the straight sections. Not bad. The actual missed steps came at the 46mm3/s point. The only downside ive found is that the PID tune is off now, so it overshoots temp and then drops back down.
Bambu Pla basic was used.
So nice to see I am not the only one messing with those high flow nozzles 
I use an obxidian nozzle in 0.4 at the moment though.
The thing, compared to the original works like a chainsaw compared to an axe LOL
Like you I have no issues maxing out the machine if need be.
And again like you I noticed the temp issues, especially if flow rates suddenly change.
I had a few printers over the decades, including custom builds.
That included home made ALUMINIUM hotends - properly anodized of course as the heating wire was embedded into the machine spiral on the outside.
The last one of these went with a printer I sold and with my P1S I really start to miss them…
NO, of course not because I made them or because their inner finish wouldn’t be good enough either.
I miss them because I used a 60W heating wire on the thing…
Never managed to max it out, not even when printing Nylon from the garden store…
The PID control was surprisingly easy as well and only for the second edition for another printer I made changes to the power and timing settings for the heater.
The problem with Bambu is that for starters this little ceramic plate won’t really cut it.
And then there is problem that we can’t really replace it with a more powerful one either because Bambu won’t say how much their mosfets can handle here.
I did some tests, sock VS no sock.
The thing really IS required as for higher temp filaments the heater just can’t keep up thanks to the heat losses of the hotend being too high.
If you take the sock off and check the original heating up you are in for big surprise LOL
The heating plate looses a lot of heat to the environment, this clip doesn’t really do much to transfer the heat away.
And the nozzle shivers - it takes a bit for the tip to reach something close to what is set and to stay there.
The block does level out eventually and with more than enough time under real printing conditions.
After that though…
It it wouldn’t be such a pain to machine a square hole I would make a nice aluminium or copper sleeve to go around the lot instead of this flimsy clip…
