Howdy mates,
Anyone educated nouf to help with answers for these…
A/ The H2C buildplate is apparantly chopped on the vortek tool side, does this imply that the build plates are NOT dualsided?
(I tend to favor the dualsided texture gold plates for my Bambu collection) It, the goldtextplate, does look symmetrical so pherhaps it is no issue?
B/ Theres a debated YT video where a pre rel H2C inductive nozzle fails to get coldpulled. Is this a thing and something to worry over? (Or just some epic fumbling?)
C/ Is there a comparison chart of max speeds reached with the new trio? (H2D/H2S/H2C)
D/ Like everyone else I love technical solutions and drooling over the latest king of the mountain, as in this case the H2C Vortek wonder.
Tending to swallow all hype without any critical thinking whatsoever… I thought i’d make an exemption and ask possible one thing. What is you take mates, will it hold up or be a nightmare to repair and maintain in mint fit for fight shape?
(Or are you H2S/H2D believers?)
E/ Is the non laser H2C equipped with the full set of cameras? And is it coming with the cutter plotter thingie? Or is that a package with laser add on only?
…F/ Are there any other blatant pros or cons I should be aware of? scratching my bald head
What do you mean by “tower mode” on the H2D?
If you don’t use a wipe tower during multi-colour prints, you may run into quality issues. I’ve never had those problems when using a wipe tower.
Standard mode vs purge tower mode. According to the wiki the quality suffers on purge saving mode is that due to it using a tower rather than pooping out the back?
It’s dual sided or at least that’s what I’ve seen so far, I don’t have my printer yet.
I’ve seen the same thing. I guess I’m not sure why the induction nozzle would have difficulty cold pulling. The only real difference between it and the standard nozzle is how it’s heated. I don’t think you’ll have a great time trying to heat the nozzle while removed from the printer if you are trying to clear a stuck nozzle that way. So I think you’ll be limited to troubleshooting clogged nozzles while attached to the printer.
Max speeds for what exactly?
I think it will hold up. The Vortek system is actually quite simple, so I don’t foresee a lot of issues with the it. There may be some growing pains at first like most things, but I don’t think there will be much long term issues with the hardware. My biggest concern is the new nozzles. It comes with a manual nozzle wipe to keep them clean, so that makes me concerned these new nozzles are going to have quality issues if we don’t keep them perfectly clean. If I have too constantly wipe them down myself, I’m not going to enjoy the experience.
It’s not going to have the birds eye camera. That’s only equipped with the laser edition H2’s. You only get the cutter and pen plotter with the laser edition. If you purchase the standard, you do not get those. There are upgrade kits though, so can upgrade to have those if you want.
Yup that one. Think it was 3D Printing Nerds review video. He tried to unclog it with a heated allen wrench and the magnet quit working and he couldn’t attach it back to the Vortek rack. I don’t typically have that level of clog, but knowing that it will potentially be more difficult or brick my nozzle doesn’t give me a warm and fuzzy.
If they removed the tower and started the print in the middle with the infill than did the outside walls mainly for not structural prints couldn’t they completely eliminate the tower on some prints “or is there a way to already do this”
I have to say, he was being really rough. like a kid would. Probably overheated the wrench too. He kinda jumped on the prusa fanboy bandwagon lately. My 2 cents
Plus the primary purpose of the tower, to prime the nozzle before printing. Even the real tool changers have a prime tower. Quality suffers without one.
A/ The H2C buildplate is… somewhat dual-sided… the left half is just the same as the H2D’s left half, but the right nozzle has no extra space the H2D does. You can see Bambu studio and go to the H2C preset printer so you can get a better look at that plate. Its also compatible with the rest of the H2 series despite being smaller
B/ Epic fumbling, no 3D printer I have ever worked with, touched, smelt (should stop doing that), and even saw can’t be fixed with a simple cold pull. If you can’t do that then you probably worn out your nozzle and should get it replaced.
D/ If you’re not looking at the nozzle amount, H2 - S, stands for simple, the toolhead is just as easy as an A1 while the H2 - D, stands for Dumbifying, is a tedious task that can break you more than you break those tiny ribbon wires. The H2 - C, is arguably the exact same complexion as the H2D, just with a vortek on the right side of the gantry. There is definitley more complexity, its just the same density as that of the H2D.
E/ H2C has 3 cameras, an extra 4th if you have laser edition/ The cutter plotting kit is sold separately, and is compatible with all H2 machines.
F/ Pros:
H2C has 7 nozzles in total
H2C has 3 cameras (1 more than H2S)
H2C has a dual nozzle
Cons:
H2C’s toolhead is slower than H2S
H2C’s build volume is lower than both the H2D and H2S’
You need to optimize your filament path to get the hotend swapping time to get under 30 seconds
This is one of the best most thorough replies I have ever received on 3d printing topics.
Thank you so very much RedDiamond, you clarified A LOT for me!
As a follow up, trying to read between the lines here and if I may ask, which iteration would you personally go for?
(I like the flagshippy factor but to be honestly Im mostly doing single color PetG prints. With the occassionall dual color or support material like 1 outta 100)
Finally! someone that appreciates big walls of text!
Whichever iteration you go for depends solely on your use case.
I mostly print multicolored, usually only 2 or 3 colors on the same layer, so I have an H2D (I’ve had it since august so I did NOT know about the H2C, luckily, I would want both machines anyways since I have multiple use cases)
If you usually print single color high-performance materials and you need the extra build volume, go H2S.
If you print so many different filaments on the same layer, go with the H2C.
While all three printers can print with high-performance materials, I don’t know many people that would need multi-material with high-performance materials, but those that do have this use case I would HIGHLY recommend H2C.
However, just a heads-up, I do NOT recommend printing PETG as a support-interface. Instead, just use Bambu’s support blend for PLA/PETG. Dual color and support material? I recommend H2D.
H2C:
The center rectangle between the sensor and metal grill I can’t find anything about it could also just be a piece of plastic “also explains why we need a new one for upgrade”
