Extruder clicking + backdriving is a sign that the machine is requesting more plastic than it is able to actually get out of the nozzle’s hole. Enormous elephant foot and a ragged “too close to bed” first layer are also a related sign that the nozzle’s Z offset might be too low, and being mushed into the bed.
Many potential problems and remedies:
0.1) Check your print temp vs what the roll says. if you’re too cold, it wont melt and flow and will click/backdrive
Settings → Calibration → do a full calibration
If the first layer offset is still wrong - find and remedy that. Clean underside of bed for stray plastic, clean your Z rods VERY well down at the bottom of them, ensure nozzle is well-seated in the hotend and all screws are tight, etc. Something physical is fouling the autocalibration, try to find it.
Try replacing nozzle in case it is a partial clog, and if it works, take steps to try to clean out that nozzle (or stay on the replacement, they are consumable)
A picture of the result of layer 1 (without layer 2, etc) will help identify if it is just an autocalibration problem or if it is something else
That first layer pic is definitely it being too low after bed level calibration.
Cleaning my z rods where the carriage rests at z=0 was what did it for me. If you did that, I think next step is to check the hotend screws for tightness (and recalibrate after reassembly).
There are thorough pics on this forum around if you search, but basically remove nozzle, remove 3 screws holding down the black nozzleholster, fold it down so you can see the back of that same black part, and check the 4 screws on the back of the black part.
My A1 mini was clicking as well but only on change of direction. I’m thinking the noise is created when the filament was pulled back then pushed out again.
I found that two of my screws were missing. The third was backed out a turn or two while the last one was holding on for dear life. I was able to find replacements in my box of odds and ends. FWIW, mine looked to be 2 x 5mm machine screws, not self taping. But I’m not sure if it matters.
To be clear, the larger 3 screws hold the assembly then there are these 4 smaller (M2x5mm) screws on the backside as shown on the video. I’m guessing that they can be replaced with these: I have some on order and will check as they screw down flush with the back surface so clearance between the head and countersink may be an issue.
