A1 - Print gets knocked of the plate by the print head

[RAHdesign]

Hi all.
With only 2 months of printing under my belt I’m a novice at 3D printing. It’s all going very good and learning a lot by just doing. I however cannot seem to get past this problem and not sure where to go for the next step in problem solving this (except here off course).

The problem: at random heights, the nozzle seems to get stuck on the print. This makes the print wobble a bit and then it breaks loose from the plate.
With all that I have tried, I’m only seeing there might be a problem in the model or the way I have my settings in the slicer.

This caravan filler funnel is the thing I’m trying to print.
For some reason I cannot upload the 3MF here, due to the 500 MB limit… Which this 28 Mb doc is clearly above

I made this in FreeCAD, which is also fairly new for me. So there is also a possibility that I did something wrong in the design of this.

Water Filler Funnel A1-06.3mf

Things to know:

• I’m using a A1 printer.

• I’m using Bambu Studio as a slicer.

• The first two models I made printed fine.
  Only differences with the newest model are the air tube and the length of the thing.
  But these two models printed without any problems, not even needed a brim.
  

  

• The printer seems to get stuck on the air tube that is inside the pipe.
  In two of the versions I didn’t attach that air tube to the pipe. And it failed fairly early on in the print due to that. See image below here.
  After fixing that in the model, the prints got higher up.

  

Things already tried, solved or ruled out:

• Filament:
  • Is absolutely dry. Straight out of the drybox on the printer at or below 10% moisture.
    Meter goes only down to 10%.
  • Got the Bambu filaments and mostly standard settings coming with that. The Charcoal and Gray I have altered the heat, due to running the heat tower test.
    Tried PLA Basic Black, PLA Basic Maroon, PLA Matte Charcoal (with adjusted heat settings), PLA Basic Gray (with adjusted heat settings), PLA Matte Ivory White. All with the same results.
• Tests and calibration:
  • Run the standard bed leveling and flow dynamics calibration before each print.
  • For two of the used filaments I ran the temp tower calibration prints. And adjusted the heat settings for those filaments accordingly.
  • Ran several block tests with the overhangs, ridges, etc. All seems fine.
• Timelaps:
  • I have this off.
• Bed adhesion:
  • Cleaned the plates with IPA and soap.
  • Added extra brims around and inside the model.
  • Added a 5 cm wide and 1 mm thick round bottom plate in the model itself (still got knocked off).
• Slowing print down:

  • Added a block in Bambu Studio from bottom to beyond the inner tube (thinking that it is the problem area) to slow the print down. The print just fell over a bit slower, but still got knocked off. See image below here.

    

• Other high prints:
  • Tried 3 other prints which were higher than this one and they all printed fine. With the same filament used for this one.
• Blobs on the prints:
  • I don’t see obvious blobs on the prints, other than where the nozzle got stuck and melted a bit of the already printed layers.
    Also not always as fast with cancelling, so some of them are a bit of a mess.
  • I sat twice next to the printer waiting for it to fail, and couldn’t see why it got stuck.
• Problems with scraping:
  • I do have problems with the head scraping over infill some times. And there are some prints that get this scraping on walls as well.
    This is not a standard with every print and I haven’t figured out when it is worse and when it is not.

I’m probably forgetting something to put on the list that I have tried, as it has been a frustrating week with it going wrong all the time.

Like I stated at the start, I don’t know what to look for or try to do anymore. So hopefully you guys can help me further with this.
I really would like to know if there is a good clear path to walk, to identify the problems and subsequently solve them.

[CarbonForge]

Your model and method are both contributing to this failure.

I’m not gonna troubleshoot the air tube because that’s a contributing factor at best - but it isn’t the root cause.

First, this is a very unstable part orientation. Your base is just too small relative to the height and width of the part - any contact has a ton of leverage on the base, it won’t take much to break the bond with the build plate. You may have gotten lucky before, but your luck has now run out.

Next, you’re not gonna print this without supports. You have full perpendicular overhangs, you can’t print those.

Third, never clean with isopropyl. Dish soap, hot water, nylon brush, scrub, rinse, dry with paper towel.

Fourth, enable inner and outer brim.

Do those things, then check back in if you continue to have issues.

[RAHdesign]

Thanks for your reply, much appreciated.

First, this is a very unstable part orientation. Your base is just too small relative to the height and width of the part - any contact has a ton of leverage on the base, it won’t take much to break the bond with the build plate.

I agree with that. Wondered why Studio oriented it that way, until I just saw how much supports are needed if you print it on the back. Not to mention the extra time the model takes to print.
If it is needed, it is needed off course. But seen as there are more funnels out there that are printed standing up, I cannot remove the feeling that mine should be able too as well.

Next, you’re not gonna print this without supports. You have full perpendicular overhangs, you can’t print those.

All prints are made with supports. I only changed the setting with either critical support on or off, but the print doesn’t even come there at that level.
I see I forgot to include some of the supports in the photo’s, but all had them.

Third, never clean with isopropyl. Dish soap, hot water, nylon brush, scrub, rinse, dry with paper towel.

Don’t agree with you on the IPA, as it is a recommended use.
However, I also tried it with dish soap and the result was the same.

Fourth, enable inner and outer brim.

Also done that in a variety of ways. Inner and outer, only outer, only inner and even added my own plack in the model as well:

Added a 5 cm wide and 1 mm thick round bottom plate in the model itself (still got knocked off).

So basically tried everything you suggested. Not sure what now.

[RAHdesign]

Just downloaded the newest version of Studio (2.7.1.62) and there is a difference in the supports now.
The bottom one looks different and this is the first time a support comes through the pipe as well.
See picture below. It’s on Fan Speed Color Scheme, otherwise you couldn’t see much.

I’m going to give this one a try as well right now. Might be the solution I’m looking for.

I’ll report back with the results.

[RAHdesign]

This didn’t work either. The pipe got knocked, but the outer support kept in place.

I was a bit late at the printer to cancel as you can see.
The pipe is knocked from the inner and outer brim and dragged across the plate. The outer brim got loose with this happening by the looks of it. Parts were still very much sticking to the plate though.
The outer support is firmly in place still. The inner support moved along with the pipe, but still sits very nicely stuck in the pipe.

I’m going to do a run with the print cut at the pipe. So just the pipe part and see what happens with that.

[RAHdesign]

Well, finally made it work without issues.
Solution: Made a bigger plate at the bottom in the model itself. It now has a 100 mm plate of 1 mm thick underneath it. With a 0.10 mm slit between the pipe and plate.
The plate is also attached to the model on 6 sides with a 0.25 mm thick “block”, to keep it attached.

After print the plate snaps right off without tools. And other than 6 pin points to smooth out afterwards, the print is pretty smooth and I call it a success.

I’ll be scaling the plate down to the minimum required size for it not to fail. The plate before this one I used was 25 mm and that failed, so the sweet spot is somewhere between 25 mm and 100 mm.

[Bullocks]

This plate you’re designing is basically a brim but using much more material due to 5x z layers, and it still only has one layer contacting the bed providing the adhesion. did you try it with just a 0 distance brim of the same size?

[RAHdesign]

No, did not think of that to try. Thanks for the suggestion @Bullocks.
I’ll give that a try as well.