ABS adhesion issues

Bambu Lab H2 Series
1

I’ve had my H2C and my engineering plate for about a month. When I first started using the engineering plat with Sunlu HS ABS, everything printed fine. I tried Sunlu Basic ABS and started having some minor adhesion issues. I turned the chamber and bed temperatures up and it reduced the adhesion issues. I switched to a Darkmoon G10 plate, which reduced the issues further, but it didn’t eliminate them. I switched back to HS ABS, but I still get some slight lifting at the corners. When the print finishes, the part is firmly stuck until the plate cools. I have used full brims, mouse ear brims, and modeled mouse ears. The brims and mouse ears are always firmly stuck with the part attached to them slightly lifted. If I use a glue stick with Sunlu ABS, the parts do not stick at all. The issue doesn’t change after the plate has been freshly cleaned with soap and water. Does anybody have any suggestions for what is going on?

Sunlu HS ABS:

Nozzle temp: 270 °C

Chamber temp: 65-70 °C

Bed temp: 110 °C

Build plate: Darkmoon G10 and Bambu Engineering plate

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2

I have no experience with the Darkmoon plate, but I did have some mixed luck on the Engineering plate. The Bambu glues (both liquid and solid) were hit or miss on the Engineering plate with ABS & PA, but using Nano Polymer Adhesive gave me perfect results.

The even better option that I found was to just buy a Biqu Cryogrip Glacier. Every single PA/ABS/ASA print I’ve done on that has stuck perfectly with no adhesive or any other effort besides keeping the plate relatively clean.

3

I have a Pro Frostbyte, but haven’t used it yet. What bed temp are you using for ABS?

4

I use a Bambu PEI sheet and have no issues with ABS adhesion.

If it’s a large print I might use printer goop but most just a wash with kitchen detergent does the job

Filament is either Bambu or eSun

1 Like
5

I like bambus liquid glue with the engineering plate for ABS. You still need to clean the plate but it has solid adhesion.

6

I’m just using the straight Bambu provided Generic ABS profile so it’s a 90C bed.

The prints on both Sunlu and Overture ABS come out so well that I’ve not bothered to tweak a custom profile.

7

I’ve had luck with the stock PEI plate and ABS. A bit of Elmer’s glue slick on smaller stuff, but no issues. ASA has been a bit harder. I’ve used BL, Overture, and Sunlu ABS so far. Your bed temp seems a bit high to me, but I’m still learnin.

8

Frostbit is the answer, you can use standard temp/settings from textured PEI.

9

Might just be lucky but i’ve had no issues at all with standard pei plate but bumping bed plate temp to 100°c

10

I am not sure about the Engineering Plate, but if you use CFX plates as I do, they are very sensitive to fingerprints, even ones that are not visible. If the plate is even slightly contaminated, it can affect adhesion far more than many people realise.

I use gloves when handling my plates to avoid contaminating them and to keep them as clean as possible. For normal cleaning, I use soap and water, followed by IPA. For dirtier plates, I use a good root brush to remove any residue that may not come off with soap, water, and IPA.

12

I do not print ABS, but I do print ASA, which presents many of the same challenges. I eventually implemented a chamber and heat bed soaking routine that, immediately after the nozzle cleaning sequence, waits 15 minutes before proceeding with bed levelling and the rest of the process. That can make a significant difference when it comes to achieving a stable thermal environment.

13

I use IPA on the PEI plate, but I believe it’s not recommended for the engineering plate. It may be worth a try, though. I use gloves to handle the plates and wash them with dish soap.

14

The liquid glue was out of stock when I tried to order some. Other forums recommended watered down white glue sticks. That worked okay for Eryone filament, but I couldn’t get Sunlu to stick at all with it.

15

Did you insert G-code command for the heat soak or just heat it up manually before sending the print?

Most of my prints have been back-to-back so, I assumed that that would create a stable enough environment.

16

I already handle this in the printer’s start G-code. Since every filament requires heat soaking anyway, it runs automatically at the beginning of every print.

I have also created a small Python script that can reapply the patch if Bambu Lab changes the printer’s G-code. It takes the code from the base printer profile, adds the necessary modifications, and reinserts my heat-soak routine

If you would like the Python script, I can rewrite it to match the G-code for the H2C. Even if this is not the actual solution, starting from a thermally stable environment is still a sensible approach. I can do that later today after work. If you would prefer not to use a script, I can also provide the G-code itself so you can insert it manually wherever you want.