I have recently ventured into ABS printing, and have no issue with smaller parts, even 50% of print bed size prints just fine. I have added a 50w mini heater to help, and it did improve, but still hasn’t cured the issue.
I have great bed adhesion, but this also causes the print to lift up the corners of my textured build plate near the end of the print and still cause some warping. The part is long, narrow, and dense, theres just no way around printing it in the orientation it is in as its the only way it fits.
Do they make clamps that work to hold the build plate corners down and also fit inside the chamber without interfearance?
What is your chamber temp? Haven’t printed ABS but with ASA I have an added chamber heater and its set to 60c so I do not have any warping. When do e printing I let it cool down slowly.
I’m only using a $20 50 watt mini heater and currently on full blast its only maintaining 52c. That is a huge step up from the ~42c it sits without the heater, but its still not quite enough to stop ABS warp on this one particular part. I may have to switch out to ASA and try that. I’ve had good luck printing ASA-CF large parts, but its only available in black and I want a grey part.
I have printed off some bed clips in PC that I found on makerworld so I’ll give this a try and see if this stops the bed lift.
For the most part ABS prints fine at 52c chamber temp, but this one part spans the entire length of the bed diagonally and is a pretty solid part, so its the first time I’ve encountered this issue with ABS.
I’ve printed a lot of ASA on my X1 Carbon—often full plates—without seeing the build plate bend. That said, I don’t use the stock plate; when I need a textured surface I switch to a thicker WhamBam Textured PEI plate. Most of the time I use the Carbon Fiber Plate, and it hasn’t lifted with ASA, PC, PAHT-CF, or other filaments.
Also, fully solid ASA/ABS tends to warp more than parts with infill. Solid sections hold more heat and then contract more as they cool; because there are no internal voids to absorb strain, that shrinkage force transfers straight to the perimeters and the plate, which makes corners lift. A sparse infill breaks up the mass and reduces net shrinkage, so it’s usually less prone to warping than 100% solid.
By pretty solid I just ment alot of infill. Nothing is actually “solid” here. Standard 2 walls, and I’ve cut infill down to 10% now and it still warps every time. I have added the clamps, and they successfully hold the stock textured plate down now, but also now the part pulls off the bed again near the end of the print. I got to almost 70% before it warped on me this time. Seems my mini heater is just not enough and I’ll need a bit more wattage to hold a 60c chamber temp.
I am printing a vented glass raiser for the x1c top glass and I cannot print the long parts without warping in standard cheap ABS. I have printed successfully several other ABS prints of much smaller proportions but this one is just killing me. If ASA doesn’t cut it I may just have to slice it up in smaller parts and get to gluin.
I recommend to work with ChatGPT in modifications to reduce warping. Think about solid infill layer patterns, shorter straight printed lines, breaks in straight surfaces, internal ribs etc.
Also, print speed is a factor. I think they have grey ABS with fiberglass reinforcement, ABS-GF.
Also review your temperatures. Large differences between the first layer and subsequent layers can create internal stress that flexes the plate. Narrow those deltas, limit cooling, and avoid fully solid sections (solids tend to warp more than infilled parts). Some tricky models simply need slight per-model tuning beyond your usual settings.
Warping happens because of the coefficient of thermal expansion of the plastic. When extruded, it’s hot. As it cools, it shrinks. That generates forces that pull inward towards the center of the print, which cause the outer, lower edges to pull up. “Potato Chipping”.
Reducing the temperature loss after extrusion reduces (and possibly eliminates) the problem. Letting the build chamber heat up before starting the print (or use a heater) helps (I also crank the aux fan to high while pre-heating, and turn off the chamber fan completely). Raising the build plate temp (and waiting 10 minutes for it to get good and uniformly hot) helps. And lastly, you can also reduce extrusion temperature.
So to minimize or eliminate ABS warping:
Heat up build chamber before starting print (I wait for 45ºC)
Heat up build plate to max before starting print
Reduce extrusion temp to min before starting print