ABS behaves ok once you have dialled in your setup and methods. I use a few brands (cheap an nasty too) and they all play nice, good habits like drying the filament and plate hygiene will see better outcomes. I find there are days when the moons are in alignment and nothing will work, this happens with all printers/materials and on those days, I walk away and do something else.
Build plates. Gluestick DOES work, it promotes the adhesion on smooth plates in my experience. If you’re using a textured plate no glue is needed, I have an old one with hundreds of hours on it that grips really well, I recently gave it the emery paper freshen up and it is like new again. I don’t mix materials on plates, contaminants do stay embedded and won’t wipe away with dishsoap/ipa. I basically use 110c first layer and 100c for the rest.
Chamber temps can play a part, but focus more towards keeping it stable and draughts out. I print regularly from stone cold with zero issue with ABS/ASA, even PA with shorter prints. Close the door/lid and leave it shut is a good habit though if you’re having issues. If you can keep the print warm as it builds you’ll have better chance of success.
Model design can influence lifting, but I find more surface area helps. Brims are security but won’t counter bad design, they’ll lift just the same as a model.
Print profile. I have a dedicated base profile for ABS, it is slowed to roughly 80-150mm/s max across the board. I use equal bottom and top layers, usually 4-5, I think this helps balance shrinkage. Walls are between 2-4 depending on the model, again more can work against you with cooling as it shrinks.
Sometimes sh1t happens, support worked but the nozzle hit the edge. Hotglue to the rescue.
