I would be interested in seeing some photos and product links for what you used!
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I used 1.5 mm adhesive neoprene (white, for helping the chamber light!) from Amazon for about ā¬20 incl. VAT. A 300 mm wide, 1,5 m roll was just enough for both side plates and the back plate. 1.5 mm is thin enough to clear belts and other things that come near so it was more or less 45 cm (or so) per plate with no cutouts except for the fans and excess chute (and holes for a few studs but that was just push-through with a finger). Very easy mounting.
Hereās the only picture I have:
I drew some help lines with a pen inside the chamber before dismounting the wall plates, to know where insulation was needed. All edges of the neoprene sheets are hidden after reassembly - if you would look inside my printer, youād hardly notice - itās just a bit whiter.
I was hoping for some noise reduction as a bonus but I honestly canāt say I notice any difference. The printer definitely heats up faster and more, although I have only printed PLA since I added this, which makes it undesirable: Iāve had to open up the glass lid a couple of cm to avoid reaching 40Ā°C chamber temperature with a PEI plate and large prints. Then again, I hate fan noise so I always try to keep them at a minimum.
I canāt find the 1.5 mm thick variant on Amazon right now. The brand was āSDLDEERā (Amazon Europe) but there are plenty of similar products - just ensure you get 1.5 mm thickness, and white!! The product description for what I bought was āSDLDEER Neoprene Foam Plate, Self-Adhesive, Multifunctional Foam, Adhesive Foam Roller Sound Insulation Non-slip Insulation Shock Absorption Buffers (White, 300mm(W) x 1.5mm(D) x 1.5m(L))ā.
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Thanks for the reply.
I managed to find the below which is the closest thing in terms of thickness in case anyone was interested. Think I will give this a try next week and see if my chamber temps get above 42 C when printing ABS after a hour. Hopefully they can reach these temps quicker too.
I bought one of those heaters for my resin printers. I found the one I bought had an NTC heating element rather than a PTC (despite being listed as PTC). It also doesnāt have a thermal fuse. I didnāt use it after discovering that, itās just too dangerous. With PTC the resistance increases with temperature, so itās self regulating. But the NTC one I got draws more power the hotter it gets. If the fan dies or gets blocked then itās going to go into thermal runaway. Iād check yours before using it. If it is NTC you could still use it safely by installing a thermal fuse (or switch) but the other issue is that because it draws less power when cold the performance at start up isnāt great either. Hopefully mine was just a fluke.
Iāve run a few tests with it for up to 8 hours. I put it in a closed 20L bucket, added power with no control. It takes a few minutes to climb from 2A @ 24V initially to 5.3Amps after that it settles to about 4.7Amps. The highest temperature the air in the bucket reached was around 68-70C. So I donāt think thereās too much danger using it but thanks for the info, Iāll probably add an 80 degree klixxon.
I plan make a unit that fits on the AMS lid, it will measure the incoming and outgoing air as well as the aluminum housing of the heater. I will control the fan and heater independently via PWM. I also need to make a divert valve to replace some of the air periodically.
I second the recommendation from CharMio.
I successfully printed some very finicky Polycarbonate (generic) by using the AUX fan blowing over a 110C heatbed for 30 minutes before starting the print. The chamber maintained just over 50C for the duration of the print and there was zero warping.
Just make sure you get the bed temperature down to whatever temperature you are using during the print before starting. You donāt want the bed cooling during the print.
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That seems to be nearly the exact thing I got, except your link points to 1/8" (at least here) while you may need 1/16" (which is listed on that same page) to be sure to clear the belts and other things without resorting to tedious measurements and cutting. 1.5 mm or 1/16" is perfect.
Your right, I thought yours was 3mm, not 1.5mm. 1/16 would be the correct choice.
found it - i think thats a perfect & low budget idea.
Theres aswell a bigger solution for the outside - HPPS for X1, Reservation Sign-Up
Will try that aswell + Front Door and Neoprene Isolation.
At least the Energy Savings are worth the Invest
Thinking outside the box (literally): Has anyone here looked into possibly using silicon heating pads attached to the outside of an X1 to raise the inside temperature? They come in practically all shapes and sizes and a whole range of wattages, from low wattage to fairly high wattageā¦ Some are rated for DC and others for AC. Examples:
DC (300 watt):
AC (750w):
Some of them, like the second one, come with 3M 468MP tape for attaching it, or you could buy your own for that purpose.
Just as with a heated bed upgrade, you could insulate over the pad so that more of the heat goes in the intended direction (i.e. inside the chamber, rather than heating your room).
Two of the X1C walls are unobstructed on the outside, and so, for symmetry sake, maybe youād want to heat both of them equally. That help even out the temperature inside the printer.
Iām thinking that maybe you could rely on the X1ās internal auxiliary fan to circulate the air inside, almost like a convection oven. If thatās not enough, maybe you could raise the lid and add some extra fans up there, where theyād be out of the way. There are numerous examples on printables/thingiverse for raising the glass lid to provide extra space/ventilation/lighting/etc.
Obviously you would want a temperature controller with a probe to sample the air temperature inside the X1 enclosure, but those are cheap also. Example:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VDRGK9F/ref=ewc_pr_img_5?smid=A30QSGOJR8LMXA&psc=1
You could take the pair of them and run them in series as a cheap failsafe and/or add other failsafe measures to meet whatever your risk requirements are.
Iām planning to print PET-CF, so Iām interested in anything that might lay a foundation to support that.
Attach to the OUTSIDE of the cabinet? That would be horribly inefficient, Iād think. There are small thermostatically controlled heaters you can stick in the cabinet. Theyāre made mainly for SLA printers but work fine here too.
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Well, fair enough, if efficiency is what matters most, then I concede the point.
Not that it should change your mind, but itās worth noting that the heater that looks like:
wonāt allow itself to heat above 50C. If that does everything that people want, then all is well, but if Iām not mistaken it does seem to leave 51C to 60C outside the range of what it can do, should the need or want for that ever arise. If Iām not mistaken the X1E can go all the way to 60C.
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As for the belts, Gates makes a GT2 belt thatās rated to operate in temperatures up to 135C. Filastruder sells it by the footā¦ Iāve never replaced the belts on my X1C, so Iām not sure if Iāll have to pull the the little end tabs? off of the old ones and glue them onto the Gates belt, but I donāt think itāll be a problem using non-Bambu belts.
The belts arenāt as much of an issue as the fans - which are rated to 60c static and 70c dynamic, and the heat on the stepper motors and extruder motor which donāt have any source of cool air.
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I already printed PA-CF (PA6 with 15% CF) on the Engineering plate and i didnāt occur any warping issues. the parts came out perfectly and nearly indestuctible. I printed a holster for a leatherman arc, so it was no flat print.
The Filament i used is Fiberthree PA-CF Pro.
I dried the filament out at 70Ā°C for 16h before the print.
Please post a photo if youāre able so that we can calibrate our expectations on how big things can get without a heated chamber and still without warping. I assume thatās the primary concern thatās driving us visitors to this thread, and so it would be good to see what can be accomplished in different filaments without warping.
As for me, Iām here to investigate a heated chamber as a āplan Bā in case Iām ever backed into a corner and need it. Iād rather have the capability and never need it than visa versa.
Kinda skimmed stuff, but you donāt need to install a heater. I bought a cheap 35$ foil lined 3d printer enclosure, if I turn up the bed to desired amounts for everything other than PLA (I have to turn pla to 35 bed) it will heat upwards of 65 degrees and every filament type fails because the AMS motors are too weak.
If anything work on replacing the AMS motors.
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with what exactly? What would be the best alternative?