This is what I use 3DLacPlus with today.
The lid is 10.1" x 7.5"
The bottom pieces are smaller and 3DLacPLus is usually not needed, but I use it more as a barrier to protect my powder coated PEI plate.
@StarPlayrX Sure. If printing small enough objects and warping forces are low enough, there are cases where a bed adhesive can be a good choice. But, if you use a strong bed adhesive and are printing something with high enough warp forces, the the print may very well warp the entire build plate away from the heated bed. In such cases, some would argue that a higher chamber temperature, in at least some cases, will avoid this type of print and induced build plate warpage. That being the case, the argument becomes: why wait? Use a heated chamber from day 1 and avoid whatever failures that might arise without it.
Iâm sympathetic to this viewpoint, but from watching Clough42, there seems to be an even better way.
This is my gloss version lid with a herringbone like pattern on the surface that I only use 3DLacPlus to prime the surface. Then I clean it which still leaves some tackiness and reduces warping / improves the first layer. This is printed on borosilicate glass. It is attached to metal plate using 3M 0.7mm black industrial tape. It does well. the X1C will complain the plate is too high, but it works.
Yes⌠very nice but I guess Iâm missing the point. I thought we were pivoting to bed adhesive. I can get this same result using my specular plate without any adhesive. Hereâs an example of such a print where I was experimenting with multicolor sylk.
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@StarPlayrX Nice. How thick is the glass, and where did you source it from? Is it already cut to size to fit an X or P printer?
I did a similar thing with 3mm thick G10 garolite, but when printing a big tall model in ASA, it didnât hold up to the warping forces and pringled even the garolite. The print didnât release from the garolite because I used vision miner on it. So, for such cases, I either need thicker garolite, or else thick enough glass like maybe what you are using. Or maybe a stiff enough carbon fiber build plate?
I am sure they have free shipping if you purchase more. I am not affiliated with that seller. But I you want to try it for free, if this forum has DMs, you can DM me your mailing address, Iâll send you a bottle to try out.
Where are you buying your filament? So far for PLA+, I use Kingroon and itâs around $11 a roll but I usually have to buy 10 rolls to get it for that price.
For all my colored material I use BambuLab refills mainly for consistency with color. And I usually get them around 14-17 itâs on sale. but never 10
Iâve printed on at the entire bed and I have never ever seen my build plate warp. Warping is cased by the other edges and corners of the build plate not being hot enough and as the top layers cool, they contract and pull the bottom surface upward. With 3DLacPlus this doesnât happen. And the Build Plate does not warp. I use Wham Bam plates. They donât warp.
@StarPlayrX Well, OK then, how far from the corners and edges on, say, an X1C does your print need to be to avoid the problem? Whatâs a good safety margin?
This what I bought, but it is not an Amazon anymore.
Itâs 260x260x3mm. I used a blank Wham Bam plate to attach it to. The printer will warn you its nozzle is too high. And I have the QR code reader for the X1C turned off. I need to add a small piece maybe in ABS or PC for the nozzle can clean itself. And you must be sure you do bed leveling each time.
Also when adhered to a metal Wham Bam plate, it sticks to the bed really really hard. so be share your nozzle is about 100mm away when you try to pull it off the bed.
@StarPlayrX The reason I ask is that when it comes to printing large prints in a high shrinkage filament like ABS (ASA is even worse), even Clough42 has admitted defeat. And he for sure has some big printers with actively heated chambers. He gives the proof here:
He decided it was just easier to print such models using ABS+GF filament, and he claims he gets great results with it.
Iâm not trying to be argumentative, and heâs just one guyâthough seemingly a fairly capable guy. If you see a flaw in his approach (the one he used prior to switching to ABS+GF), Iâd certainly be interested to hear what it is. In some ways, his box is similar to your box. Both look to be big boxes.
Does the herringbone pattern impart any kind of stress relief into a high shrinkage filament, or is it purely decorative?
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That is a really good question.
When I was printing the full bed with my filament boxes without 3D Lac, I was getting at least 1 - 1.25" inches of warp on 1 or more corners.
I think a good safety is to keep your parts 3-4 squares 30-40mm away on all sides is a safe bet. Not guaranteed but safe. Then always center your pieces closet to the center. thatâs where all your heat is.
Really the danger zone is the outer 10mm all the way around the plate.
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Yes, I have ABS here and it shrinks a good bit. I am not sure about its warping as I am saving it for some special work as most of what I bought from Bambu is translucent. I have not tried ABS+GF yet, but I will give it a shot (probably after I use up my 90 rolls of material here).
But that would be great to compare ABS-GF with PETG-CF and see how do against each other.
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Maybe you rounded up the 10.1" dimension a bit, but a pure conversion would have that at 256.54mm. i.e. youâre right up there at the edges, I would think. No safety margin. I guess youâre getting away with it because the height is low enough that it stays within the heated âhaloâ of the heated bed.
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Well 3DLACPlus is like an adhesive, but really only sticks to your bed plate and the first print layer but doesnât stick to anything else and is easy to clean. And itâs not messy like Glue stick and some brush on glue.
Do you have a link to the multicolor sylk or silk? I am always looking for new effects for my arcade boxes and always looking for ways to reduce warp.
Yup I rounded it, it is 256mm
This is at the edge but the top is rounded, so I am my outer edges are printing outward and upside down with no support which is prone to warp easier and sometimes get stringy. But I need the curved and rounded edges so the piece doesnât hurt your hand or palm if you rest on it.
This is where on a textured PEI plate, 3DLacPlus helps out a lot.
When I print it on glass, 3DLacPlus works but at full strength it leaves an acid wash effect on the surface with milky areas. So I will spray it on and immediately clean it but it still leaves enough residue to keep the surface with just enough tack.
As a warp avoidance strategy, I tried printing all of the bottom surface layers, including the solid infil pattern above it, in Hilbert Curves pattern, which looks similar if not the same to your herringbone pattern. It printed, but it didnât feel like it held together all that well as compared to monotonic. Not sure how to describe it. A kind of âcrispyâ feeling perhaps? I canât say it definitively, as it was just one attempt, and I maybe had some under-extrusion going on. Maybe. Maybe not. Not sure. I was using a 0.4mm nozzle. Maybe youâre using a wider diameter nozzle? Or is the herringbone an imprint from the build plate, not an actual extruded pattern?
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For the glass / glossy version the bottom later is Hilbert Curve. I did it so it doesnât show streaks on the glass caused by print direction and to also tell my customers itâs a herringbone pattern.
On PEI, I use either the default grid at 45 or sometimes 90 or 0 to keep the printed grain in 1 direction, but I may try the Hilbert Curve on my the PEI. For me the Hilbert Curve adds 1 hour of print time.
One other tip I would like to add is, if you want the best circles, rounded curves and round corners, use as many triangles in your mesh as you can. I print this with 2M triangles and with the glass plate, it prints the smoothest curves possible without edge build up on the first few layers of the print. It does help PEI plates as well. It tends to avoid this gap you get from the top few layers to the middle of the curve, where you sometimes can get a double bevel effect which for me is usually unwanted if you didnât design it that way.
I should probably get back to the possibility of either adding a heating element. which is actually why I came here. because I do want to remove the none heat at the plate edges.
Would turning the 3 Fans down on the X1C help with this? It seems like fans are counter productive when it comes to cooling down the airspace above the print and possibly adding to warping? Also after a recent BambuLab update, one of my fans runs at 100% which is annoying.
I have seen some people add plastic garbage bags on the the X1C to reduce warping and keep in the heat.
Here is a quick tip to help keep your AMS humidity scale to 1, add extra desiccant to the actual rolls inside your AMS:
I also use small desiccant packets on the bottom of my X1C printer. In fact, I cover almost the entire floor with smaller used packets. When I did everything seems dryer to me.
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Here is the link but it looks like they are stocked-out. I purchased it last October as an experimental filament. I keep it on hand solely to test out concepts such as the one above.
They do have other offerings in the try color arena. Outside of this one filament, I found them to be pricey and there were much better deals so I cannot qualify their quality.
Hereâs their store on Amazon, this is the link to their multicolor silks.
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They may work well with a Magenta and Blue box and a Silk lid. I will give it a try.
So far I havenât sold any of my arcade boxes yet. I am trying keywords and thinking about selling the box as âa Desktop computerâ, âan Internet deviceâ, âa gaming platformâ. cuz right now I think my potential customers are totally corn-used. I had it with all the emulators and manufacturers supported it, but the a competitor complained to eBay that I was âinfingingâ in their IP, which I wasnât, but they pretended to be the IP owner and eBay yanked it. Then I made my listings more generalized, but now I think my potential customers donât know what to make of my arcade/console gaming box.