I just had a print fail 28 hours in. One of the tree supports failed, but unfortunately, it didn’t show as spaghetti for quite some time. Even if it had, it was probably 18 hours into the print when the support in question stopped printing correctly.
Filament has been dried etc, that wasn’t the issue.
I’m not sure why the support, in the red area on the photo failed. I didn’t seem to snap as I didn’t find the missing length of support in the printer.
I now have 2 options ….
- Print it again and hope it doesn’t fail the same way.
This seems silly to bet on the result being different, and I don’t want to waste another 28 hours of printing and 750g of filament, for it to fail at the same point.
- Switch to normal supports.
These, I believe, are less prone to fail and may be better for a larger model. However, they’ll be a lot more hassle to remove (I am using a different filament type for the support interface). However, this adds a staggering 300g and over 12 hours to the print.
I’m not well read on supports, so I’m looking for some advice.
- Should I just play safe, assuming it is, and go with the longer/heavier print with standard supports?
or
- How can I make the tree supports less likely to fail? I see I can set the “Support wall loops” to 2. do people think that will solve this?
Thnks 
check printer wobble.
I was having this issue with some prints based on a number of issues.
The main one was that my desk allowed some serious shake to my machine and every now and then the print head would whack a support.
Oddly the other was because I smoke.. while normally outside, I smoke at the door in dead of winter.. it seemed that the rapid tempurature change, could cause some problems with the filament temp, which lead to strange layer lines and support problems.
Lastly, always check the recommended temperatures of your filament… they are the grail for proper adhesion.
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this one is knocked over, so it’s highly likely because of warp. unfortunately trees are prone to warp.
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Any suggestions hotellonely?
Do you think try with the 2 wall loops, or just go for the far longer, and more filament, option of normal supports?
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Thanks Codebrain. Desk is absolutely solid. Yes, there’s some printer wobble but only at the level a printer wobbles anyway regardless of being on a really solid surface.
Interesting about the smoking problem. Could see that being an obscure problem that asking on a website wouldn’t get answers for if you didn’t think to mention opening the door etc. At least that’s an easy solution now you know.
warping is an issue related to multiple things, and i believe you’re using some sort of brittle filament (probably matte?), but in general, slowing things down help a lot.
Also avoid opening the door/lids
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Hadn’t opened the door, this failed middle of the night.
I’m using the eSun “bone” filament. That’s apparently a standard PLA+ from what I can see, not a matte.
I’ll slow the whole print down. It’s already almost a 2 day print but I’d rather it take longer and work rather than fail after more than a day.
Thanks
you can also turn off chamber cooling to improve the success rate, because this tree looks pretty close to the outlet of “front ventilation door”…
if you have a usb drive plugged, you actually can see the full-recording of the printing in the IPCAM folder. It’s very helpful for diagnosing these failures.
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I’ll turn off the chamber cooling for sure, thanks.
Annoyingly, I didn’t have the timelapse turned on. I’ll turn it on for the next attempt. I never realised you could use it to diagnose a problem, but now you’ve mentioned it makes absolute sense.
It may help to add two loops for improved rigidity, but it will not help with warping at all.
As a last resort, after you have tried all the suggestions here, you can use glue to keep both the model and the support firmly attached to the build plate.
In my experience, tree supports are fragile and may require fine-tuning. I even fine-tune the filaments used for tree supports to ensure they perform as intended.
For most standard filaments, I would recommend trying Magigoo Original or Magigoo Supergrip. These are general-purpose adhesives that work well with a wide range of materials. You do not have to use the Magigoo brand, but it is the one I personally use because I know how it behaves in different situations.
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Thanks L0rdS474n but I don’t think glue is the solution here, and as it happens I was using Magigoo. Everything did remain firmly fixed to the build plate. The support in question either snapped or some other printing issue.
I’m leaning towards using standard supports, as I didn’t realise tree supports were so touchy.
Ipcam is on by default, it’s a real-time recording looping like a vehicle recorder. Even if time-lapse is not on.
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Ahhhh, misunderstood you.
The live cam wouldn’t have helped as the failure was maybe 24 hours into the print, and in the middle of the night. Up until that point everything would have looked fine.
it’s definitely helpful as you can see at which feature and why it failed
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Can you explain a little more hotellonely, as I think I’m misunderstanding something here.
We’re talking about the live camera view you see in Bambu Studio yes?
I don’t really understand how that helps. As you’re not going to see a failure happen live, realistically, you’re only going to look at what happened after the event. If you go and look at the actual print, doesn’t that tell you the same thing, but in even better detail, as you can look from different angles, closer, etc?
Not trying to challenge you, just trying to understand as I don’t see the advantage to useing the camera here.
The recording shows the full story of why and where it failed. It’s a full recording, not a time-lapse, so you can see the exact moment of failure.
Yea, it’s an edge case for sure.. but I noticed when I was smoking with the door open in the dead of winter that my prints would “click” when I had the door open…
Some prints I could almost look at like an archaeologist and see when I had the door open, visible layer shifts 
some filaments are super sensitive to temps… I used sunlu meta filament recently major warping if I didn’t follow the temps on the spool. the warping led to raised areas that made contact with the tool head.
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