Aftermarket plates (biqu, Darkmoon)

Bambu Lab H2 Series
1

I’m looking for a new plate for my H2S. I currently have the stock textured plate, the Bambu smooth plate, and a cheap smooth plate from AliExpress.

Basically, out of the Biqu Glacier, Darkmoon CFX Carbon Fiber, and Darkmoon G10 garolite plate which is “best”. By best I mean has both great adhesion and release of mostly PLA, PETG, TPU, ASA, and Biqu’s PLA-HR.

I had a WhamBam carbon fiber plate for my A1 and it was amazing but they haven’t released one for the H2 series yet.

Anyone know how much/visible the “light” carbon fiber texture is on the CFX? I print a lot of lithophanes and light boxes and would obviously prefer there to be no texture.

I have to imagine, I could probably get any of the plates and be perfectly happy, but because Audhd I have to get all the information I absolutely don’t need to make sure I’m getting the best of something I absolutely don’t need/won’t use to the full extent (like my H2S).

My main concern is will PLA-HR ruin the CFX or G10 plate or will the CFX plate leave too much of a texture for light based prints? I’ve had 2 glacier plates, the first one I ruined because I couldn’t get petg to release…at all. And the second one i used three times on my A1 to print various basketballs out of PLA-HR and it worked well.

I vastly prefer smooth plates because I hate having a texture on my prints, but my previous experience with the amazing adhesion of CF plates makes me lean that way.

2

Which one is best really depends on your priorities. Almost all CFX plates require some form of adhesive, no matter what the manufacturer claims.

I personally use a Darkmoon CFX on my H2D and a WhamBam CFX on my X1C. Both give excellent adhesion and clean release once you apply the right adhesive layer (I use Magigoo Original for most filaments).

PLA, including PLA-HR, won’t damage a CFX or G10 plate as long as you avoid printing directly on a bare surface without adhesive. The real risk isn’t from the material itself, but from excessive grip — especially with PLA or PETG when the plate is cold — which can tear the coating if you forcefully remove a print.

If you print a lot of light-based models like lithophanes, the CFX “light” texture is subtle but still visible under strong backlighting. In that case, a smooth plate with Magigoo might serve you better for aesthetic consistency.

3

While it would be a lie for me to say I NEVER used some sort of adhesion promoter on the WhamBam CFX on the A1, I would categorize it as close to never without actually being never with zero issues.

Basically what I’m hearing is I should get the Darkmoon CFX AND G10…