The AMS is so badly designed I’m about ready to jump to any other company.
I got a P1S and AMS for xmas 2023. My first BL issue was the day I opened it. My 2nd print it gouged the print plate really bad. Luckily its double sided.
2024 was a year of mostly good prints.
2025 was a year of issues and problems, constant troubleshooting and just throwing money at it trying to fix the dam thing.
So far I’ve replaced the AP board, 2 nozzles and the thermistor in the P1S.
In the AMS I’ve replaced the 4>1 internal hub unit, the motor for it, done the python upgrade, replaced all for feeders and still have constant issues and errors. I’ve spent more on the AMS fixes and upgrades than a whole replacement AMS.
Currently I’m having the issue with the feeder motor not pulling the filament through far enough so it spools through feeds back, spools through and errors. Also the unable to pull back error where it just whines instead of feeding back the last 1cm of filament onto the spool.
How on earth do you fix this? an 18hr print takes days since I have to babysit every layer change but due to being a human that needs sleep and needs to work for money it takes forever of start/stops and issues.
Apart from throwing another $800 at it buying a whole new AMS unit (dont even know if V1 or V2 is better), what other options can I try? I can’t work out why people would use these in a print farm if you have to replace them every year.
Yeah. Exactly opposite of my experience with my X1C and AMS. Worked as intended for 2+ years before I passed it on to my Brother In Law and replaced it with a H2C and AMS Pro.
I had one issue with the X1C and AMS, the PTFE coming out of the AMS had too sharp a bend that caused binding. Resulted in intermittent failures. Realigning the tube so it didn’t have as much of a bend fixed that.
And I did have trouble with the AMS pro on my H2C after I’d first put everything together. The problem was that I hadn’t gotten the PTFE tube that goes in to the printer all the way inserted and the filament would sometimes get jammed causing the AMS to feed, roll back, feed, roll back, lather, rinse, repeat.
I have to agree. My first impression is “that’s a highly modified AMS”.
Nothing wrong with the filament path, but there could be plenty of things wrong resulting from the modifications. If you’re serious about troubleshooting this, you need to put the AMS back together the way it was when you first got it and then see if you still have a problem you can maybe blame on Bambu… provided you haven’t reassembled it incorrectly or broken something in the process.
Maybe I misread but the impression I get is that the OP made the mods in an effort to deal with the problems, not that the problems started after the mods were made.
When something doesn’t work, your first inclination should be to fix it. If it’s not working correctly, modifying it extensively is a suboptimal solution path. You’re introducing changes that aren’t part of the original design, you have no way to know if the mods you’re making are “right”. So on top of the original issue, the mods may have introduced their own.
He says he replaced the internal hub and motor, and then did the Python upgrade. Was it working correctly before the upgrade? If so, the upgrade obviously broke it. If not, the original problem is still there but now you have the added complication of troubleshooting it with a system that’s different from how it was originally designed.
Three options that I see:
Return the AMS to original and start trouble shooting from a “known” state that should work (assuming you can put it back together correctly).
Throw it away and get another AMS.
Blame Bambu Labs for the problem and kick all the Bambu hardware to the curb.
For what it’s worth, my AMS[1] worked really well for the first 1000 hours, but then it became incredibly particular about the diameter and fullness of spools.
Your issue though sounds like PTFE and coupling related, and specifically your rewind issue sounds related to your PTFE shortening modifications. These machines are dumb - they know sensor fulfilled, sensor not fulfilled, and preprogrammed actions to get them between those.
Watch the filament’s leading end, whatever fitting it “stops in” and retracts to retry - cut the last 1mm off that ptfe tube using a square cut tool, and really freaking ram that baby home into the pneumatic fitting. If it’s an actual fitting and not the actual toolhead, replace that actual fitting. If it’s on the toolhead, observe if the final bend is too sharp. Stock glass with no riser is OFTEN too sharp.
For the amount of time I have owned a 3D printer and been on the BL forums I am probably one of the least experienced but have some questions. And I do get the frustration you are experiencing. I see that you have been posting on this since at least April 2025.
You said 2024 was mostly good prints, so depending on the amount of hours and printing you did that leans toward the AMS not being a lemon (lemon = the occasional item that ends up being problematic and not working well from the factory, while most other of those same items are fine).
What types of filament ( & brand) do you mainly print? Is it PLA or some of the more abrasive ones?
Have you replaced the tubes and if so did you use BL tubes?
Can you tell how far the filament is making it up the path? To the extruder? Are you still on the original extruder?
It is possible if there is excessive drag on the filament it could cause more than normal wear on tubes, motors and the extruder. Can you easily feed (push) the filament by hand from the AMS to the hot end (or extruder) or do you feel binding or blockage?
During 2024 when things seemed to work OK did you have the AMS off to the side like it is now, or was it on top of the printer? (I have some TPU gaskets I am going to print and my AMS is on top, I really don’t like the thought of rearranging my working system so I can feed from the top straight down into the hotend).
When things started not working well was it an intermitant problem that got worse over time or was it good one day and not working the next?
When the issues started did it happen after anything, like moving the printer to a different place, a mod, firmware and/or software update?
You guys know you’re wasting your time. Doesn’t matter if the AMS was at fault or the OP was.
How many of these “bye felicia” threads have we seen, they’re all the same (there was one where the OP listened).
What’s going to end up happening is those that swear by the OP’s words and those that don’t will end up arguing, someone will be reported, the threads will be closed.
First up when I encountered an issue over and over I looked for solutions and found many suggestions and ways to improve or fix known problems.
The 100% stock AMS system suffered from bouncing spools causing issues towards the end of the spool. Not turning the spools properly sometimes when a new spool was added resulting in wearing down the rubber tube on the support shaft. Constant tangling issues. Overloaded motor.
Since BL does not ship to NZ replacement parts are generally sourced from aliexpress.
I have tried the AMS on top, behind, to the right.
My first upgrade was the riser with drawers to take some stress off the tube that feeds into the extruder. Then I went into the little clip on parts with ptfe tube that you click onto the top of each feeder motor. It was a gradual series of 1 fix at a time to try and fix issues. The python upgrade was due to being so frustrated with the constant empty or full spools causing issues and the tangles. It has eliminated the spool issues.
I have considered buying a replacement AMS2 and seeing if its better. Not sure if I should get another AMS1 due to the amount of issues it has. Then I could just throw my python upgraded one in the corner and use it for parts. But then I guess I would be back to searching google for solutions to the same problems like I did last time.
For the people that are anti because I dare voice my objections, you dont HAVE to comment. Just scroll past and move on. And please note my first issue was the P1S gouging my print plate on DAY 1. Or the connection drops that would just delete the print from its memory like it had amnesia. Its pretty frustrating when you get 12 hrs into a 20hr print and the printer just forgets its printing anything.
TLDR:
Each incremental upgrade was a result of searching for a solution to a problem that I was having. I’m after (once again) another solution to the same problems I’ve been fighting since BEFORE my python upgrade but worry that a replacement AMS will just bring back all the issues the python fixed.
OP, send me your broken hardware and I will fix it. Don’t blame Bambu Labs, it is simply a machine. No one has built a machine that does not run down overtime.
Guess I’m looking at price/year and seeing that if I need to replace it every year thats a huge cost to be outlaying constantly.
I’ve been looking into the H2C but they start at $5k and go up from there. I honestly thought it would be a good little side earner but so far its just been somewhere to pour money. I’m still in negative profit and now looking at buying another AMS.
I know wear and tear takes its toll but I honestly expected a longer lifespan.
It seems that all the recommended fixes for all the issues I’ve had since day 1 are now an issue. Which makes me wonder how do I fix the old issues I used to deal with if I remove the things that fix them?
Also, sending you my broken hardware would probably cost as much as buying new.
Thanks for the response. It does kind of sound like you got a lemon AMS or something happened in shipping. I have the P1S combo, lower hours on it than you I am sure (I print PLA), and it has always just worked for me. But I have been around long enough to know that everything that comes from a manufactuer does not always come out the same quality 100% of the time. I own a Subaru. I will NEVER own another one because I have so many issues with it, some of which Subaru ended up loosing class action law suites against them. I’m sure their wrists really stung from the judgements against them. So for me, they are 100% not worth it.
If the printer does work well for you when using an external spool (yeah, single color object) then it might be worth getting a new AMS, or a new printer if that’s what you really want. Not sure how you would get anything BL to NZ?
The bouncing spools makes me think of rollers not turning or at least not easily. And I have seen other threads from people who would have roller issues with one specific slot (varied between people) but can’t say there were really any solutions.
I’m guessing you must be using non-BL filament because of availability? Same if you have replaced the PTFE tubes. I will say generally BL does seem to have good quality tubes were as 3rd party quality can be hit and miss (size, wear resistance, composition…).
Sounds like you have probably learned more than you ever wanted to about AMS construction and maintenance. I’m guessing you also looked closely at the filament buffer to make sure it was functioning smoothly and no PTFE or filament peices or shavings in it and tubes seated straight and all the way? I’m just throwing stuff out there, I’m sure that in the last year you have looked at stuff I would never think of. Sorry I can’t give you any magic bullets. If you do get it fixed or decide to stay with BL and get a new AMS and/or printer it would be great if you posted an update.
First up I 100% have the same thing with cars. I’ll never own another Mazda. XD
We have I think 3 companies that sell BL printers here but parts are pretty hard to get locally. Sourcing the printers themselves, easy.
The rollers cost $14ea and having spools eating them racks up fast. I did get some liquid tape and move the rubber and reglue to lengthen the lifespan but the Python removes that issue. You have huge cogs that you put the spools on, then its direct cog-cog driven.
You can get BL filament but its expensive. I like to use PLA silks but BL filament is around $50/kg which is pretty insane. The cheap no-brand I get for around $20ea +$12 postage.
I’ve checked the buffer and it seems to be functioning right but its always been a ? in my head as to if its working right or causing issues as its one of the few pieces I haven’t replaced.
I have been considering a Creality K2 or Anycubic Cobra. I need an enclosure due to temperature fluctuations otherwise I would have gotten a Yumi from kickstarter.
Where in the world are you buying an H2C that starts at 5k and goes up? I bought the ultimate package plus two extra AMSs and didn’t even get close. I’m at 4 AMS 2s and an HT for ways less than that.
I have to agree with you because honestly, my printer works fine and I have it for over two years and the only thing I had a problem with when I did something to it not the printer is fault like honestly the only thing I have problems with right now is that I need to replace the build plate after two years which I never had a build plate last this long so I’m placing it
i have 5 AMSs (+2 AMS HT) they all work fine
