I have a P1S with AMS and I am printing with Colorfabb 1.75mm Woodfill. When I am printing a part everything starts OK, the feeder is working, the part is printing but after printing a few mm the feeder stops feeding. Even though there is no filament extruding the printer keeps running as if it was printing. This has happened three times. Attached is a photo of the end of the filament that I removed from the nozzle.
If anyone has a fix for this please let me know.
What sized nozzle are you using?
Filament guide - Compatibility to printer, nozzle, AMS, build plate, glue and required parameters
2. Nozzle. When printing carbon fiber or glass fiber-reinforced materials or particles infilled materials, like PLA-CF/GF, PETG-CF/GF, ABS-CF/GF, PA-CF/GF, PAHT-CF/GF, PET-CF/GF, PLA Marble, PLA Sparkle, PLA Glow and so on, do not use a 0.2 mm nozzle, otherwise the probability of clogging will be very high; and not recommended using a stainless steel or brass nozzle whose hardness is not high enough, otherwise the nozzle will be worn obviously soon. When the diameter is increased from 0.4 mm to 0.6 mm and then to 0.8 mm, the printing fineness decreases, but the clogging probability also decreases in order. So, the 0.6 mm nozzle is recommended as the first choice for these materials, and the 0.4 mm nozzle is the second choice (the recommended layer height is between 0.15 and 0.3 mm, and lower speeds are recommended). However, as for some specially designed Bambu filaments, such as Bambu PLA-CF, Bambu PETG-CF, Bambu PLA Marble, Bambu PLA Sparkle, Bambu PLA Glow, and etc., the 0.4 mm nozzle is still highly recommended as the first choice to obtain better qualities.
Before using these materials, it is recommended to set the nozzle temperature to 280 °C, and then use an Allen key and a needle to clean the inside to reduce the risk of clogging during the printing process. Do the same if the nozzle gets clogged during printing, and ensure the inside is clean before the next printing. If the nozzle is clogged, please refer to Nozzle clogs | Bambu Lab Wiki to clean it.
I have been using this filament for over 12 months and have never had a problem using a 0.4mm nozzle. The issue started just a couple of days ago so Ireplaced the complete hot end and changed the extruder to hardened steel and the problem is still occuring. I will print 20-30 layers of a part without a problem then it stops extruding but the printer still keeps running. Could it be and AMS problem with a filament sensor or something?
It does sound like heat creep from your description. What’s you chamber temp? I usually aim for 35-39°C with PLA, up to 35° with many retracts and below 35° wirh ironing.
Woodfill is much prone to take up moisture and will also react much more severly. In particular if have a warm spell atm? Or the AMS is dry because your PLA wood has kept the dessiccant dry? (Happened to me with other filaments: BVOH & isanmate 30% woodfill PLA) So it is possible that this causes heat creep even though you have printed this filament well beforehand.
More serious would be extruder slippages, wear or clogs. I noticed my isanmate woodfill to be more flexible when moist. That could contribute to clogging.
Similarly, aggregated durst in the extruder gears could impede extrusion, contributing to an earlier onset of heat creep.
& 
Thank you very much for responding. I am not familiar with heat creep terminology and what causes it. It has been a bit warmer here in Boston but I print in an air conditioned room at 74 deg.
I installed a new complete hot end and new hardened steel extruder gears and the next print failed. I have a P1S printer so do not have control of the temp inside the printer. I will check all the settings and see if there are any changes that I have made inadvertently.
Here’s an older explanation of heta creep. Note that a cooler chamber is better for heat creep preventiin but worse regarding warping/curling.
My X1 gives me temp reading that is not available for the P1. But there are loads of thermo-/hygrometer mounts for the P1 on MakerWorld which allow you to place one of the Circular Embedded Electronic Digital Thermometer Hygrometer | Bambu Lab US Store or rectangular ones in the build chamber, visible through the chamber camera.
Best wishes, &
Here is a graphical description of heat creep.
The nozzle that come with a new printer appear to be .4mm SS so will potentially wear out with filler impregnated filament
Thanks for the information. I have been using hardened steel nozzles for all my Woodfill prints. I changed 0.4mm nozzles a few times and the problem persisted. I then changed to a 0.6mm hardened steel nozzle and am printing at 0.3mm layers and the issue has been solved. I am wondering if there has been a change in the Woodfill filament that caused this. It seemed to conincide with new spools. Wood flour is an organic material and does vary in terms of particle size distribution. Wood flour can also absorb 8-10% moisture.
Thank you for your help with this. Still not sure whether I go to the bottom of the problem but 0.6mm nozzle solved it for now.
Even the HS nozzles are going to wear out over time. Just not as quickly as the SS.
If you have a .4 mm nozzle that has grey cooling fins it is most likely a SS hot end. The spec sheet for the P1 printers say they are sold with .4 mm SS hot ends. One installed and one spare.
Here is a good example of the nozzle material and how to distinguish SS from HS. Scroll through the various nozzles.
Bambu Hotend - P1 Series
