Yolink used to graph dewpoint but seems like it no longer does. I’m rather disappointed that yolink’s automatic firmware update was a downgrade in that regard. The main advantage of yolink is extreme range. You’ll practically never miss receiving a packet.
Well that was certainly enlightening. This explains why even though the AMS-HT my PA6 is in has been below 8% for weeks, I still recently had to dry it because it was printing horribly.
I always dry my filament both before and after use, and store it vacuum-sealed between prints.
My current setup includes:
• 4 × AMS HT units
• 3 × AMS2 PRO units
• 1 × EIBOS dryer (up to 70 °C with continuous spool rotation)
• 1 × laboratory oven (up to 300 °C)
No “pro tips” here — just a reminder: be careful not to overdry your filament. Excessive drying can degrade the material just as much as moisture can.
I meant what’s your method, not what equipment you have. Take, for example, “be careful not to overdry your filament.” Well, how is it that you are doing that yourself? Break it down for us. How are you deciding how long to dry for?
If we only talk in vague generalities, then there’s nothing really useful in it, almost like saying, “Do the right thing” or “Be careful” without saying exactly how it is that you’re supposed to do that. If it helps you get in the right frame of mind, imagine you’re giving directions to a child or total newbie. Don’t assume capability or prior knowledge.
At the moment, I weigh the spool and consider it dry once it hasn’t lost any weight for at least 8 hours. Of course, this depends on the type of filament—filaments with longer recommended drying times require a longer period without weight loss before I consider them done.
So basically, I dry them for one full cycle, weigh the spool, and then continue drying in half-length cycles until there’s no further weight loss.
Alternatively, one could also monitor absolute humidity (AH) inside the drying chamber to help determine when the filament is dry enough.
It already does this - it has to in order to calculate RH. If you watch your AMS HT (easier to see due to the display - but also works on AMS) if you do a drying function and the dryer turns off, RH starts to climb almost immediately after the heater turns off. This is due to temp lowering but the amount of moisture in the air staying the same so the RELATIVE humidity is rising.
— just a reminder: be careful not to overdry your filament. Excessive drying can degrade the material just as much as moisture can.