Hi everyone, Im printing on an H2C using Bambu Studio. Most of the time prints come out pretty much perfect. I have been fighting some adhesion issues even on the textured plate after washing. And with this print specifically im getting a messy first layer with black bits in the white, as well as the edges of the white letters and orange swoosh not fully connected to the black.
I have already adjusted the infill/overlap to 50% like another thread said to do. That was for the gaps between the letters, definitely helped, but didnt get rid of it 100%.
I also tried doing the flow calibration, but didnt seem to help much.
Biggest issue is getting the white clean with no black bits in it.
So this is a light box and so yes, it needs to be printed face down, so the edges of the light box can rise up from the face of the sign and mesh into the back of the light box.
The gaps in a lightbox might be tough to fill perfectly (true in any light box actually). You may want to add another layer or two of the white/yellow that overlaps the black on the “inside”/back, at least somewhat. So even if the top gap isn’t perfectly filled it should be a lot less obvious. Or I suppose having the black overlap the colors would also work. Will also make a stronger bond (the letters won’t pop out as easily ). (I mean doing this on the model itself, not some slicer tricks.)
Agreed with Jon on drying. Kinda looks like “moisture farts.” Besides that, lower speeds, accelerations, and a lowered Quality → Smooth coefficient (eg. to 0.5) all make prettier results in my H2C experiences. You don’t mention which filament, that may help troubleshoot further.
-Max
PS. Meant to ask… is that a DM CFX plate finish? Subtle, but looks cool!
PPS. Depending on how the filaments are assigned, setting “Purge mode” to “Standard” and resetting (and/or increasing) Purge Volumes may help. Also potentially Quality → Avoid crossing walls.
I did a flow calibration a day ago. Im not sure what you mean by stock process settings. I am using the settings in the file as I downloaded this from maker world.
Your top layers show some pretty bad over extrusion. This is likely the entire reason you’re seeing so many black artifacts on the white on your first layer, the excess molten filament is going to end up somewhere and in this case a decent amount of it migrates into the white.
You said you did a flow calibration a day ago, but from what I can see it’s not correct. You can even run a test without re-calibrating. Change your initial layer flow ratio from 1 to 0.8 or something similar, then print the first two or three layers, see if the problem is greatly reduced or eliminated.
Hmm, Im not seeing where to change the initial layer flow ratio?
EDIT: Never mind, I found how to enable it! Ive been printing with Octoprint and other printers for 10+ years, but have only had a Bambu for 2 months! Learning every day!
I’m not trying to be pedantic, so please bear with me. It’s a genuine attempt to point out a problem.
You said your new tests of your logo were “perfect”, but they are still obviously over extruded. The fact that the colors aren’t migrating into one another is probably more random luck than anything else.
If you look at your top layer, you can see there is excess (over-extruded) material that projects above the surrounding layer’s material. When you continue to print additional layers your nozzle tip will impact those high points and push them around as it travels. This is likely exactly how you were getting the black spots in your white lettering on your initial post. Until you dial in your extrusion and/or PA values you will continue to have similar issues in multicolor prints.
No problem at all, I am open to all advice. When I say perfect, I did just mean that the white was clean, When I print this keychain full layers, its like 25 layers total, the finished eresult I would say is basically perfect, and I have had for the most part good luck with multicolored prints.
My printer is due for maintenance, cleaning and lubing the rails and rods, and I also need to do a cold pull on both nozzles. Any chance this would change anything?
I had so much trouble with the first layer issues that I turned off the aux fan when printing PLA. Later I put a fan outlet vane to push the air up by I think it was 35 degrees and things seem to be much better. Maybe those would help you with this exact issues. Doesnt hurt to try it.
If you are printing the item with both left and right nozzles, I would suggest you do high precision nozzle offset calibration. Also when sending a print job toggle the nozzle offset calibration to “off” to ensure it uses the high precision data. That might be the cause of the space between black and white on the LED box.
Those PEO/PET plates are notorious for bad adhesion after some use. The stock PEI plate is your best bet.
If all else fails I would try a new nozzle, sometimes a worn or damaged nozzle tip can cause issues.
). (I mean doing this on the model itself, not some slicer tricks.)
