Another 'PETG on the P1S' Question

Since I migrated from Creality bed-slingers to Bambu (P1S & A1), I have had nothing but nightmares with PETG. 1.5 years, 50k plus videos, every topic I can find, on many forums later, and I am no closer to figuring it out than when I started. I have tried adding heat, subtracting heat, adding & dropping speed, top vents open & closed, door open & closed, I even tried my chamber heat at 30, 35, & 40, tried adding dry time and temp, to no drying (with my Crealitys I never tried drying, no issues). I dry it typically in my Comgrow double roll, usually at the max of 50c, at minimum 12 hours, I wait until it is below 5% on the machines hygro & an added Amazon cheap hygro.

Before buying the Bambu, the only issue I had with Crealitys was tuning the speed/heat. Now I do great with all PLAs, ASA, & ABS, but little to zero luck with PETG. I’ve literally never even been able to have a successful print on the Flow Tests. I’ve tried 7 different brands of basic type, 3 HS, 1CF, I currently have a job in which (as luck would have it) the customer picked out Overture Clear and Starry Blue. Oddly enough, after 24 hours of drying, I went forward, calibrated the Clear perfectly. Then on a whim, I took a shot at the “ice” print, turned out almost as clear as my glasses. I am too stubborn to stop trying it, plus I know it’s possible. There’s too many people have good success, a lot of people use it exclusively.

I’m hoping someone like me, had good success previously, and no luck post-swap to Bambu, and can tell me what helped them. If you have any ideas, I am much appreciative.

Thank you, Cory.

What kind of failures you are having?

I just got my P1S last week with just 30hrs of printing. I was printing a part for the AMS 2 Pro before it arrives yesterday, on the external spool. The print came out absolutely no issues and looks really good. I was using Bambu’s “PETG translucent Clear” straight out of the pack.

What kind of issues are you having? Most likely can’t help you on the matter but would love to learn as much as I can to be prepared for future prints.

Throw some pictures up of what results you get.

Share a 3MF that includes a model that failed, along with any changes you made to the profile.

Are you testing on the P1S? If not, do it for simplicity, as it is more likely to work without issues.

Confirm the ambient temperature (surrounding the printer and the humidity if you have a sensor.

Do you have any BL filaments? If not, list the brands you have tested, along with which are standard, high speed/flow, etc.

I am currently printing BL PETG HF on three of my P1S printers:

  • 14 hours
  • 6.5 hours
  • 5 hours

I will leave them printing overnight.

I am lucky enough not to need to dry any filaments, my bed adhesion is great, my lids and doors are closed, and it is 25Âşc here. I also never use any glue. These are what make my setup work; this is not true for everyone in all parts of the world, so knowing yours may help us to help you.

My profile settings are essentially the same as a new project, and the filament is correctly chosen.

The same is true when I print BL PETG Translucent or any of their other materials.

1 Like

So sorry, thought I sent this lol. Until today, I had given up each time I failed on calibration prints. May have to do a couple posts for them, here is what it does with every calibration and every brand:


Here’s a simple multi test from Maker, that I tried yesterday:


Then I tried avoiding cal tests with a new roll, undried, and just “Open in Bambu Studio”. Oddly it’s not awful, considering no cal or drying:

Then I did it again with the Overture Blue, that for was great, considering I haven’t calibrated:



Obviously I can try doing it this way, but I need to tune my profiles since I’m trying to start a business. I am lost here though, I have never been stumped this bad. I’m always able to tune my way to the promised land lol, I just don’t know where and what to tune?…

My eye sight is getting real bad apparently… or your pictures are awfully small…

My guess is you have problem with layer adhesion, which is completely opposite of the benefit of PETG: strong layer bonding.

Just a piece of advice:

  • PETG wants to print slow
  • Nozzle temperature could vary between different PETG colors of the same brand as the color figment changes PETG properties slightly
  • Minimal cooling for best layer to layer bonding
  • Stringing or a lot of stringing compare to PLA or ABS
  • PETG usually for performance print, not cosmetic print
  • BBL profiles, in general, are tuned for for cosmetic print mostly.

Nowadays, 3D filaments are mostly alloys, not like 5-10 years ago. So that, it is very much different between brand to brand.

Since you are starting a bussiness, you shoud be expecting more of “plug and play”. I suggest you buy into the BBL ecosystem, i.e. using BBL filaments instead.

Hi. I have absolutely no problems with PETG on my P1S. I use generic and the firmware is 01.07.xx.xx.

I haven’t calibrated any filament.

While I have 250+ Bambu Lab filaments, I have 50+ other branded filaments.

I live 35 miles northwest of Oklahoma City (dead center of Oklahoma). Average humidity is between 55% to 75%, right now it’s 63%, expected 55% to 65%, and temperature 87 f, expected high at 93 c. Glue is a necessity, at least with common filaments and build surfaces.

I have only had PETG on the P1S. to stl/3mf, as I say, the three models above are the first and only ones I’ve printed with PETG since switching to BL. Aside from those, I’ve stopped after every failure with Flow Calibration.

I’m surprised to see you recommend BL filaments. I’ve posted a couple different threads here and other places. Literally every reply/comment said to avoid BL filament like the plague. It shocks me to, obviously since this is the BL forum, mostly since the one roll of BL in the bundle was PLA and it printed beautifully. When I made the switch, the reason I haven’t bought BL, was the price + S/H. Since then, they have come down to the average, but the S/H is still there. With business and prime account, the discount and free S/H, other brands make more sense. I’ll use whatever makes the best chance of the best success. I have just been told by several, “BL filament is trash.” However I’ve yet to give it a chance. Plus they don’t have the best type/color options either.

The only BL roll I have tried is the PLA that came with the P1S. The filament brands that I’ve bought:
Overture
Geeetech
Hatchbox
Flashforge
Sunlu
Creality
eSun
Anycubic
Giantarm
Elegoo
Eryone
PolyMaker
Amolen

If memory serves me, the only high speed was either Sunlu or Eryone. Aside from that, the rest were basic (slow), I always start with preset “Generic PETG”.
If it needs it, I only change hotend/bed temps to the middle of the range of what is on the box. I’ve yet to have any attempt pop loose, bed adhesion is no concern ATM.

I am mostly indisposed with family today, but if providing any more info helps, I will do it. Thank you all for helping.

1 Like

I think PETG is like 3 orders of magnitude more finicky and diverse in it’s actual chemical composition across manufacturers than PLA is. It’s hard to give good general advice with it, other than: it LOVES to be dried and HATES to be retracted if you have it 1 degree over some magical ideal temp

If you want a lovely PETG experience, try PETG-CF. Get a hardened nozzle, turn your fan back on, and it’s almost like PLA in printability performance.

1 Like

Don’t trust 100% what you read from the internet or this forum for that matter. What they say may be true to them but may not true to you. The same for what I say.

I don’t read the forum much and I don’t recall seeing much complains about BBL filament quality same as trash. Maybe I haven’t paid attention about this. But I know a lot of people have great result with BBL filaments, to the point it feels like 3D printer is almost the same as paper printer. For bussiness, I don’t think you have time for mucking around to fine tune everytime you switch brand. Pretty much, printer down time = losing money from bussiness perspective.

I personally don’t buy BBL filament because it is ridiculously overprice here in Australia. Imagine I had to pay AU$50 for a PLA roll, then on top of that another AU$15 for shipping. Usually, I can get 1kg roll on ebay for around AU$20 shipped. I got a warehouse clearance deal a year ago for AU$8 for 1kg PETG roll (chinesium brand XVICO), and yes I bought over 30 rolls. Still have a few rolls left + about 40 rolls of mix sunlu petg / pla / abs. I print mostly ABS for work, so it takes a while to grind 30 rolls of cheap PETG.

Bullocks is right about PETG, different manufacture has different blend of PETG and hence could be very much different from one brand to another.

My advice, stay away from generic filament profile.

My first xvico PETG print literally crumbled in my hand, layer delaminated and came apart. I printed probably with BBL PETG-HF profile or generic PETG profile (which one I used I don’t remember) at default speed 200mm/s and 300mm/s infill. But after tuned in, it’s been printing just as well as PLA, although a bit slow. Do you believe that I have to print xvico PETG at 265°C with crawling speed of 100mm/s, while manufacturer recomending temp of 220-240°C? Maybe that is why it is cheap, LOL

1 Like

Rule of thumb: people who have problems are heavily over represented in Internet forums. Happy users mostly have no reason to seek out troubleshooting topics. This is true for everything from motorcycles to sewing machines to 3d printers.

I have read some people on Reddit and the forums here repeat over and over “Bambu profiles are all trash”, “Bambu filament is trash”, “Bambu is the worst”… with no examples to back it up. I take them with a healthy dose of skepticism.

So… give it a try with a Bambu PETG filament and profile and see how that goes. If it works well, then you maybe can start figuring out why the others were having trouble. But if it prints terribly, with an all Bambu stack, then maybe it’s the printer and not the filaments you’ve been testing.

1 Like

I agree totally with believing everything on the internet. But when you’re struggling with anything, it’s the nature of the beast to latch onto anything that follows your own misery. After the 2 recent models results of just hitting start, I tend to think, as well or as necessary as it is to one material, to be meticulous with calibration, others could benefit from driving it like you stole it. I greatly appreciate your advice and the effort of a detailed response I am going to try BL and report back in a while with results.

1 Like

100% facts! As I’ve always preached the the least believable reviews about any material, are the negatives. Whether by operator failures or bad luck, if you’re happy with something, you generally enjoy it. You never think of taking the time to start a subject unless there are problems. Thank you for your time.

Good luck!

Good luck! I’m actually expecting to try PETG on my new P1S for the first time soon. I have a mix of brand new filament from Bambu, brand new from SUNLU, and ancient filament i found in a storage box. That last is that is going to need like a week of drying, and still probably won’t work because it’s like 7 years old.

I am both looking forward to and slightly scared of testing that last one :slight_smile: I’ll share results for posterity and/or amusement value.

1 Like

I use petg as my main filament, and try a lot of them. I see test on igor gaspar youtube channels and try Tinmorry. For me, the best petg that I tried. Very good Z-layer adhesion and no issues. Another very good one, eryone. In the bad side: BL and Overture, specially this one, a lot of issues and very prone to artifacts and cracking.

2 Likes

Hell yeah, Dr. Igor is such a treasure.

1 Like

Can you post one of the 3mf files that you are having issues printing PETG? I can try to print on my P1S and post results here.

Overall I am having pretty good success with PETG printing. It doesn’t print as perfect as PLA but it prints better than my old Prusa MK3s and my Anycubic S1.

I don’t think I had any Bambu PETG but I’ve used Rapid Elegoo PETG printed using Bambu PETG HF filament setting and it came out pretty nice. I tried Prusa PETG and it was all stringy melted mess using the generic profile. I have not tried to tune that yet.

Thanks for the lead! And be still my heart: GitHub - TINMORRY/TINMORRY-filament-profile-for-Bambu-printers: TINMORRY filament profiles for Bambu 3d printers

Love that they’re publishing profiles for various printers!

I have been doing some printing with the ancient PETG i found. It was still in its vacuum sealed bag, tight as a drum after nearly 7 years. Good packaging! Loaded it up and turned the P1S loose with it. A few artifacts and some stringing but for simple parts like boxes it’s fine.

Give it something more complex, though…

Could be the age, or just the material. The white PETG I bought in the same batch and used in 2018 also tended to look like this when I tried to do anything interesting with it. So I lean to just the material.

I stopped that print job, and then ran it again with Bambu Purple. So far, so good: