Huh, indeed they did. Seems like they removed all filaments that contain CF or GF. Meanwhile I’ve been printing with those filaments all this time 
Guess I’ll switch back to the regular nozzles. Truth to be told, I don’t print a lot of large models with big infills so I probably won’t miss out on anything.
Interesting enough I never had any issue with the 0.4HF printing any sort of CF/GF even PPA-CF.
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I’ve also never had any issues using the 0.4 hf and filled filaments. I’m just going to keep using it till it does lol. Part of me thinks they just changed it so people buy the 0.6 hf hot end lol.
If they’re going to push the 0.6 though I sure do hope they spend some time on the profiles. Last time I tried the 0.6 I couldn’t get a single decent print.
I print my GF/CF filaments with 0.4 HF and on P1/X1 with obxidian HF 0.4mm hot ends majority of the time, never once had a clog in 10k+ hours.
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I do the same thing. Only “clog” I’ve ever had was from not having the temp tuned properly on some eSun pa-cf. It was a partial clog. Bumped the temp up a tiny bit and all was well.
On my P1S I’ve been running the microswiss hotend (direct replacement). Using the .8mm CHT hardened nozzle for several hundered hours now. Mostley with high speed PETG. Im building large parts so my tune is 265C nozzle/70smooth plate/ 50mm3/s max volumetric flow with .8mm CHT nozzle at .5mm layers/1.5mm inner wall/.85 outer wall using inner/outer/inner with 3 walls, 4 bottoms,5 tops. I limit max speed to 250 on everything and 200 on outer walls and tops (never get close to limits with the big nozzle though due to MVF). Parts look great and are strong but the geometry is very simple. I can go faster but I lost my nerve as these prints are 6 + hrs and I don’t like to call my wife in panic to tell her to “shut it down”.lol. On stuff for my grandkids I use the .6 CHT nozzle with narrower lines to get more detail so I will hit the speed limits with that nozzle. Id have to try it but I don’t think I can run PLA like this.
Now you have definitely piqued my interest talking about TPU and the HF nozzles.
Across many printers, TPU has always been the bane of my printing. on my old marlin machines, using a .6 nozzle and going terribly slow was the only way to get anything done. using a HF .6 on the bambu just might work out for me.
I do modify the setting for TPU with 0.4mm HF, as due to their internal HF structure retractions can be more problematic. With these settings all is well. Here are my current TPU 95A HF settings:
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Thanks, I’m always glad to take the benefit of someone else’s hard earned experience.
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Just dont forget the pick “Direct Drive High Flow” from the drop down menu before modifying the settings.
So, is it worth it?
I read through the entire thread and still not clear to me, I want to shorten my print times using 0.6mm nozzle, should I go ahead and just get the HF?
How much of a hassle is it to configure the various settings to take advantage of it, when using bambulab filaments, and 3rd party filaments?
I also saw some places mentioning retraction issues?
I use HF hotends on 3 H2D’s and 3 H2S’s.
I dont mess with flow rates or any other pointless faffs. I just print everything in ludicrous mode. It knocks a huge amount off the print time.
I dont get why there are endless threads of people saying adjust this, adjust that. It just works with no adjustments. Over 15000 print hours agree with me.
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I run my printer pretty hard. I don’t use more exotic materials but i will occasionally run cf and gf filament.
I have never had a regular nozzle clog or wear out. I have had both for hf nozzles. Surprisingly clogs always occurred on non impregnated filament.
They are certainly worth using if you can lay down the volume of filament needed to justify it. But i have found them to require more maintenance.
I have a couple tungsten .4 hf on order and i am hoping they will be a bit more hassle free.