Print on a vinyl sticker… it should last longer…but maybe with really high temps it might curl…
I should try a two color ABS print of the Lidar adapter with the sticker image imprinted in black. Hmmm
And it probably is the PC prints that are drying out the glue with the 110C bedtemps!
So I’ve been using this plate in my x1-c for a few months now. Its great! My prints are flat again!
You do need the knob spacers or else you’ll get force sensor errors.
I don’t raise my bed temps at all but I do heat soak the bed for 5 minutes or so before sending a print.
One thing I’ve noticed is that the magnets are very strong. I run the panda revo setup and noticed that with the hardened steel nozzle, the magnets were attracting the nozzle to the spots with the magnets. I switched back to the brass revo nozzles to mitigate any potential issues with print quality. I also edited the machine start g code to delete the wiping motions at the back tab before the leveling procedure. It still heats up, probes, and parks at the tab before cooling down, so no chance of a filament blob throwing off the Z offset and my brass nozzles don’t get destroyed quickly. My first one only lasted about 10 prints with the default nozzle wiping procedure.
Can you explain more about this? Something to do with the kis3d or just the revo brass in general?
Just the Revo brass in general. The only reason I mentioned it was because the kis3d plate magnets attract the obxidian nozzle so I switched it back to the brass.
I can DM you the photo guide I made if you’d like. The only thing this edit does is removes the back and forth motion the nozzle makes on the tab, everything else stays the same. Literally a life saver for brass nozzles lol.
I have been using the Revo ObXidian on my X1-C as well, for a little over 4 months now, and have not noticed any anomalies in print quality.
Do you have any vids of this phenomenon or pics of how it affected your prints?
I don’t generally print many large square centimeter prints, so, perhaps I’ve avoided the problem.
Are you using the kis3d plate?
As soon as I noticed the attraction between the nozzle and the magnets on the kis3d I swapped it out for the brass. So I don’t have any actual scientific proof. It was more of an avoidance move for me.
Yes, I use a Kis3d plate on both my X1 and my P1.
Let’s back track a bit.
Was this strong attraction you noticed while the nozzle was installed or just loose on the hotbed?
While holding the nozzle in my fingers.
The attraction very well may not be enough to disturb the tool head, but there’s no way of really proving that. I’m not saying it will in fact create print quality issues, I’m just saying it might and I’ve decided to mitigate the potential entirely. I’m a perfectionist lol. If I can mitigate an issue, I will. Even if it’s not exactly necessary.
Understood.
Just wanted to clarify what you were describing.
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Just an update to the thread:
I’ve been running the Kis3D aluminum plate for a couple of months now… works perfectly… just follow the Lidar sticker/mod and add the spacers underneath the plate. Where the turn knobs are.
Very flat prints… much much better than Bambu’s ‘It’s within our tolerances, your bent build plate is fine’
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Hello all ! I was using this fantastic plate without any trouble until yesterday. Now I have a Z home error, I suppose it’s coming from the spacers I never used. I can’t even remember if I had these spacers in my package, I bought my plate a long time ago (Now I see it’s black, mine was ‘metal’). Is anybody could help me having a doc or stl for spacers plz ? Thanks in advance.
If you contact Kis3D they can send you the file to print out the spacers (just take out the aluminum plate)
You should also be able to find the files on Makerworld/Online
good luck!
And you’ve tried cycling power on your printer?
is there a manual for where the spacers go to? its very vague if they belong above the force sensor or on the rubber o-ring on the twist nut.
i keep getting sensor errors and cant resolve them
There’s no manual I’m aware of…
you just have to unscrew the thumbnuts, don’t let any o-rings fall… then just put the spacer on the bolt, and retighten.
This is what I did, everything worked. No more sensor errors.
i bought that thing a year ago, and never installed the spacers since i did not see the reason for doing so, i mean its just changing the length of the thread leaving the nut, so i didnt install them. i always had sensor errors when i wasnt pre heating the bed to 70°c, and let the plate soak up heat to let the thermal expansion stabilize. a year later it suddenly has issues with sensor errors, so i was looking again into this spacer thing, and in which order they have to be installed, but kis3d stopped selling the milled plate, its no longer on the store page, just the magnetic one is still there. so i wondered if i had missed a manual or something. yeah, ive misplaced the spacers, ive installed regular metal washers just now. just started the first print without sensor errors in days. bed leveling needs a couple or double takes though… like on one spot 6 times tapping , lowering the bed, piezo relax vibration, more taps, bed lowers, and just when i think its aborting it taps again and continues leveling. i hope it stays at least that way. love the plate, but i think even kis3d could not handle all the issues people had with it.
rubbing brass against way harder spring steel of the print plate does that