If only they exposed the bed leveling information, that would allow everyone to confirm the bed is performing within “spec”.
I do wonder how they are “factory calibrated” if they are missing a basic step like this to ensure the platform is not significantly bowed.
Even for their team checking printers it seems a mesh of the bed level would be very helpful for QA.
@hicks192 , I’d bet they have all the bed mesh info they need. Just because they don’t give you access to see it doesn’t mean they don’t have it. I’d bet they will look at your last 5 or 6 prints and determine the average outage. If it is within their idea of spec, they decline to replace it. If its out of spec they replace it. Obviously, if you print off the network, they will not have the data, but that’s a whole 'nother can of worms.
The real question is what is in spec? can it be out by a .8 mm in one place and near perfect everywhere else and that’s OK? Who knows.
I e just ordered a new X1c and if the bed is warped I’m going to extremely unhappy. This is a big one off purchase for me and to ship out known defective products would really disappoint me and it’s going straight back
But I’m assuming these are the vocal minority of cases, and since the x1c seems so awesome on other regards I’ll be thrilled it’s fine. Anyone know the UK lead time - currently showing early May?
Mine (UK - a couple of weeks ago) came almost eactly when they said it would, so I’d assume early May is accurate.
My bed seems pretty much perfect to me, at least a 1-layer test print came out really well.
Can’t add a photo, maybe I need to post more first or something.
With Bambu Lab’s fantastic ABL, I think 1-layer test prints will look good on warped beds too. After all, I think that’s the job of ABL.
I’m not saying your bed is warped – just pointing out that a visually nice looking print is not necessarily a sign of a mostly flat bed. And I’m saying mostly flat here since a completely flat bed is likely not going to be possible at this price level.
Thanks Chris for the reply. I’m coming from a Prusa mk3s without the MMU which I put together myself so I’ve a bit of experience in construction, printing and with slicing software/simple 3d design software.
I also work from home most days so I’ll be getting my money’s worth out of it - noise isn’t a problem as I’m usually emailing people. I’ve spent another ~£100 just on accessories - textured bed, spare 0.6mm hardened hotend and nozzles as well as various bits and bobs to make my life easier.
I really hope it lives up to the hype 
is it that much faster than a bed slinger? My 7yr old son is Minecraft mad and making him some “real” diamond tools will put me straight in at number one dad 
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Not having any form of enclosure on the Prusa I’ve never used ABS or Nylon so I’ve got some PA-CF and ABS on order at the moment. I think I’ll return my Prusa to stock or maybe do a bear upgrade and have it running in the background. I thought of going the Voron route but the X1C combo just seemed too good and well thought out to pass up.
I came from a MK3S too (which I sold when the Bambu arrived), the speed is incredible compared to the Prusa … and the noise is too. I can work okay with it on in the background, but the Prusa was near silent in comparison. This sounds more like some kind of air-conditioning unit.
That said, the speed and quality override any noise issues. More than happy with my move!
Don’t get me wrong the Prusa has been a great machine to learn on but I was hitting the limits of pla/pla+ and PETG when it came to latches and catches on tool boxes etc and you might as well forget TPU. The MK4 price compared to the specs of the x1c is insane, especially since Prusa’s MMU seems more like a prototype than a finished product.
Fortunately I’ve already made my own filament dryer which is accurate to a few degrees using a k type thermocouple and a simpler controller. It can take two rolls at once so I’ve got good hopes for new materials like nylon and cf blends. As long as I can pause when my boss calls me on Microsoft Teams I should be fine
Make sure to have some ventilation holes in the design and optionally a ventilator. Else you just build a sweatchamber that won’t dry a thing, like most available commercial filament dry boxes.
Please don’t think any less of me for this 
But it’s based on a commercy food dehydrator with a REX-C100 Temperature Controller installed with an output to a 40 amp relay and an input from a thermocouple to measure the temperature.
I basically input the temp I want depending on the material I’m using to the digital keypad and set a min max. When it gets below the temp it switches the heater on and when it gets a couple of degrees above it switches off. It also has a fan which I’ve set to nbe constantly on as long as it’s switched on. Got it all for about £40 and as soon as l can print higher temp materials (e.g. ASA or ABS) I can extend it upwards to take more rolls. It has holes near the top to let out moisture and I’ve checked the thermocouple and its within a degree or two and holds it with little variation.
I’ve got a couple of small hygrometers on the way primarily for monitoring the x1c but I’ve got spares so might install one on the dryer for peace of mind.
Btw I can also use it to renew silica beads instead of using an oven. Never understood how those cheap “dryers” were supposed to work if they’re effectively sealed containers with a heater 
The cheap ones do not work. That is their secret.
Though there some properly build ones, but if your design is based on a food dehydrator it will work.
I use food dehydrator for years now, this is perfect, just have to found a bucket to put on it and make few holes (6mm) on top of it, perfectly fine and cheap.
Mine is very similar to the above, just retrofitting the manual dial with a digital temperature control. It’s useful for setting the correct temperature for e.g TPU or Nylon
Could we get back to topic here? It’s about warped beds on current delivered machines.
Sorry, but that’s just totally wrong. And I was trying really hard to not sound rude.
No worries. Your reply isn’t helpful though. Can you explain what’s totally wrong in your opinion?
