Hi, I am having trouble printing the articulated dragon models on my P2S such as this one…
It always loses adhesion from the bed. I have cleaned the bed thoroughly, I am using the standard PEI Textured plate that came with the printer. I have tried Sunlu basic PLA filament using the generic PLA settings and also the Bambu PLA settings, and another unknown brand rainbow filament, using the generic settings. Other designs print well , such as Filament Spool Shelf System No Hardware Needed! by MikeGTP MakerWorld: Download Free 3D Models
no issues, the flat shelf used most of the plate up the the edges. It prints perfect.
Other prints have no issues with the filament that I keep getting failures with. I don’t think its the filament.
Last night I tried again using a inner and outer brim, but it moved on the plate again and caused spaghetti. I have not tried glue, I have the standard settings as in the downloadable print profile for the crystal dragon( Updated single colour profile). I have also tried a 5c higher bed plate temperature. I am unsure of what to try next.
Any advice or opinions would be greatly appreciatted
For the textured plate, you should change the Initial Layer Height to 0.3.
I don’t know why it’s not set that way by default…but it will push the filament down into the plate a little more.
Do not go above 0.3 or you will cause elephant foot.
Also you didn’t post what infill you are using, again…do not use the default Grid infill…the nozzle will hit it and rip it off the plate.
I had trouble on my p1s with dragons. I put a little glue on the plate, and got a tip to turn initial layer speed down to 30. Ive printed several dragons sinc then with no problems at all.
Why? Shouldn’t the printer only raise the distance to the plate 0.1mm more and add the needed filament quantity?
You’re considering the distance will be 0.2 but the quantity extruded bigger. That’s not how it works. Is it?
It will give you a little more squish…
on things like print in place, spinners, calibrations…etc, you should change it back to 0.2 or the parts might fuse a little.
But otherwise, you can leave it at 0.3 for 99% of your prints.
The textured PEI seems to lose a bit of stick over time/use and can lead to print failures. I had a plate I thought was toast but tried some of the Bambu liquid glue on it and it works great again when I use the glue.
For critical or difficult prints on PEI I now use liquid glue to hold things down. Some don’t like using glue and I get that, but the liquid glue has a built-in pad applicator and when cleaning up, the glue rinses right off easily.
It just takes a moment to apply and the heated bed dries it right away - no waiting to print. I’ve been printing lightbox lenses with lots of fine detail and it all stays stuck down beautifully.
The OP isn’t printing PET and doesn’t mention PET. Nobody does but you.
And I didn’t insist the OP use glue. In fact if you’ll actually read what I wrote, I only said I use glue. I didn’t say they should though it was a suggestion.
Glue works, dude. Not sure why you’re calling me a fool or saying I’m foolish or the advice is foolish or whatever you were trying to say. It could be that z height adjustments fix up the OP and maybe not. But I’ve got mm-sized dots that print great with no lifting when I use glue on what had been a dead PEI textured plate.
You are welcome to disagree but cool it with name calling. You aren’t the police and I’m not lying or misleading the OP.
Your post immediately followed mine without replying to anyone in particular and called somebody “fool” over glue and my post was the only one that mentioned glue. What else are we to think about who you were replying to?
I’m not a fan of altering the first layer distance above or below 0.20, even if layer height is 0.28 or 0.12. Simply because your troubleshooting skills for adhesion get wierd and wobbly if you treat this like a variable. Master that 0.20 space imo. There’s extra confounding because your slicer cuts the height a further 0.04 if you select textured (but flow remains the same, so approx 20% more flow for the volume of space, to account for the speckles gaps)
Anyways, the theory for textured PEI is not to lay the bead across the top, it’s to mush it into the surface’s speckles. Lion’s suggestion does that too. My preferred way of doing this is altering the Bottom Surface Flow. Couple percent there, in addition to the hidden amount the slicer is doing for you w/ plate selection, and you can fine tune it pretty well.
No it will not push the more material into build plate since it will also increase the gap to the build plate and change the extruded volume proportionally to that layer height increase. The only thing you get is a tiny bit more latent heat due to the increase in material volume but to be honest you might as well just increase the first layer bed temperature or initial layer line width for that.
If you really want to have more material volume for a given first layer height on the first layer then you need to adjust the first layer flow setting which will only apear if you have Bambu Studio preferences set to Develop mode.
Bambu studio will use a fixed small negative Z offset when a textured build plate is selected but to me that is not “squishing” more material and in reality is just a volumetric and dimensional compensation due to the difference in the top surface “measurement” during bed leveling and the texture valleys.
