I bought a g10 plate hoping it would help with some ASA adhesion issues I’ve been having. So far I’m having a hard time getting anything to stick to it. I’ve washed it and wiped it down with 99% iso alch with little success. I’ve had 3 prints of 8 come out and 1 of those three still had warped edges where it pulled off the plate. I’m currently running the plate at 100c, chamber at 60c, and print temp is 260c. All filament has been dried for a min of 8 hours at 65c. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Honestly - I’d go 110c on the bed for the duration, and 270 nozzle for the 1st layer (then 260 from there on). And realistically, it should be sticking just fine to the standard textured PEI plate IMO.
Do you have any sort of ventilation system hooked up or just using machine’s heat mode (sealed / creating a slight vacuum)? How big of a part are you printing?
No vent system, it lives in the garage so I’m not worried about fumes. I had better success with the tex PEI than this, but from what I’ve read this would be better. The part I’m printing wight now is a birdhouse roof, taking about 2 sides of the plate, but still mostly empty. Before that was a riser for a dog dish, took 80% of the plate, it printed but the corners peeled.
That’s wild. You’d think that would go smoothly. I print some form of ABS mainly, and with that at least, there are all sorts of occasions when I needed to raise temps a bit to keep warpage / adhesion issues at a minimum.
I watching the current try at the roof pulling in the corner as we speak. I’ll bump up the bed temp next time around.
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Best advice I can give you is to get a Kdeavi or Frostbite (new formulation that support ABS/ASA) and it will solve all your adhesion problems. Use the Garolite plate for Nylon and PC.
Are you washing it with washing up liquid too? I find IPA is okay as a “top up” clean but sometimes clean the plate 3 or 4 times with washing up liquid with hot water to the point where water just beads off it.
I print with a lot of ASA and have no issues with bed adhesion on the standard plate.
110°C bed temp always, a small brim now and again and a very clean plate usually works for me.
Maybe it’s your filament? I run ASA only on an H2D and using all the factory provided stuff - every print as been perfect. I’ve been using filament from Matterhacker and Amazon
I shared my experience with CFX plates here. They are not G10, but some of the observations may still be relevant:
Please keep in mind that I use Magigoo for almost everything, selecting the variant based on the filament type, model size, and geometry, so judge the results with that in mind.
One question: do you heat-soak your printer before starting, or do you begin printing as soon as the bed reaches the target temperature? That can make a significant difference, because G10 and CFX plates do not heat up in the same way as Bambu Lab’s standard build plates.
I do not heat soak the printer prior to printing, I just tell it to run when its up to temp, usually takes it 2 or 3 min to hit temp. I’ll have to give it a try. I have cleaned it with soap and water several times. Even after a successful print, had one last night, the part can be removed from the bed with a no effort. I can’t feel any level of adhesion. I may go back to the standard plate soon if this keeps up. I’ve used 2 different brand filaments both with the same issue, they printed on the PEI plate with success.
for asa all fans must be totally off, bed 115 and anyway corners try to lift just for the wind caused by the moving printhead 
if your issue is the start of a new line on the bed, you can try to reduce 1st layer accel to zero and check flow ratio maybe
I have exactly the opposite problem. ASA sticks too well to G10. Especially when using an adhesive like Nano Polymer Adhesive the parts can weld themselves to the surface. I use Holden Enterprises G10 for my H2D. I keep the bed hot at 110°, the chamber at 60° and do a heat soak before starting the print.
With large ASA prints warping is caused by the bottom layers cooling and stress starts to build warping the corners. In this case more perimeters and a sparser infill (like 10% gyroid) can help.
Did you sort out the issue - ASA is the reason I brought this printer (not tried yet as waiting for filaments)
All? Surely not part cooling fan lol
The sole air moved by the printhead is enough to lift corners
Mind you I’m too proud to try using glue on the print bed. I’ve mocked those who use it far too much. My last resort might be switching to PEI instead of the smooth, but that would truly be the final option before I humiliate myself publicly by using glue.
Yes I never had overhangs to manage, I admit it. I am referring at 15x15 cm cube shaped stuff and geometries like that. the twerking scream face ghost and small things come good with part fan but I bet if I print it bigger… :lift:
Still working on it. So far, I was better off with the PEI plate and glue stick than the G10. The printer itself prints ASA fine, its just about getting it to stick more consistently. I’ve had many good prints on the PEI, but just more adhesion issues than I thought I should be having, thats why I went to the G10. May have been wrong.
Not all G10 plates are the same. I had a DarkMoon and returned it. The Holden Enterprises plates are much better.