I’m printing ASA for the first time on my Bambu P2S. I’m getting terrible warping.
I’m using Bambu ASA filament so I assume that the printer is setting the proper temps by reading the RFID tag on the spool.
What else can I do?
Both ABS and ASA and Nylon are challenging to print because they like to warp. The plastics have a larger coefficient of thermal expansion, which means they shrink more as they cool off. It’s that shrinking that produces the forces that pull inward, that produce the forces at the edges of the print that pull upward. To fix this problem, you have to minimize the delta between the extruded plastic temp and the temp it cools down to while the print is underway. Addressing it requires you to max out the build plate temp, minimize the extrusion temp, and make sure no cooler ambient air is leaking in to the chamber you let warm up before starting the print.
Do a temp tower calibration, determine the lowest temperature you can use for extrusion.
Preheat chamber before starting print. P2S doesn’t have a chamber heater, I think. Crank the build plate and aux fan up to max and wait.
Make sure the door stays closed for the entire print. Make sure the chamber and aux fans are off.
These lines are also because of “shrinkage” (excellent Seinfeld episode, BTW 
)
I bet that the lines on the outside correspond to where the “floor” is on the inside of the print. The layer time changes significantly when the print goes from infill to the top surface printing. In the time it takes to print the full layer, the print cools off more than it did for the layers just before the full layer. Normally the layer to layer shrinkage is small and constant and you don’t see it. But in this case, the print cools off a lot, shrinkage is greater, and you see a discontinuity.
The same things that minimize warpage also minimize this effect (defect). But to really minimize it, the model has to be modified so the internal “floor” is separated from the external walls.
I have printed Overture ASA in my P2S and Core One (external spool holder) without issue - nice print - Nozzle 270 Bed 90 Fan off High quality print settings…….. Hope this is helpful
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Which bed plate are you using and how are you cleaning it?
I’m using the Textured PEI plate. I’m just getting started, so I haven’t cleaned it yet, but I suppose I should. Suggestions on cleaner?
You can’t see it in the picture, but the area that’s warping is where there’s a shallow recess with zillions of support trees. I suppose the trees don’t stick to the plate as well as if it were solid on the bottom.
Bambu has a great wiki page detailing how to clean your PEI plate.
In addition to cleaning the plate which was already mentioned, I lower the bed to the bottom and set it to 100C for about 30 minutes before I print to preheat the chamber. You can also bump the bed temp up to 100C for printing as well.
If you raised the bed so the top is even with the aux fan outlet, and you crank the aux fan to 11 (), it’ll heat faster because the fan will be blowing directly across the surface of the build plate.
Assuming you have an aux fan that is.
In my experience with my X1C, this is pretty much the only thing the aux fan is actually good for.
ASA doesn’t use aux fan at all! Only use it if the parts to be print are very small or overhang sagging (10-20%), but usually is off. ASA behaves like ABS. It likes hot chamber and bed. Clean your plate very well, also glue helps as well brims.
Try using gyroid for infill.
Gyroid has a smooth, wavy, 3D-curved structure with no long straight segments.
This reduces directional shrinkage forces that cause corners to lift or parts to bow.
I’m using the Textured PEI plate. I’m just getting started, so I haven’t cleaned it yet, but I suppose I should. Suggestions on cleaner?
Adhesion improves dramatically with a little dish soap and hot water, and the amount of oil required to ruin it is nearly invisible.
I’ve learned to only grab mine from the edges.