Austin's PHA Printing Journey

Hey there everyone!
I recently (past 6 months) got a printer and have really enjoyed fixing problems around the house and repairing tools and items. As a mechanical engineer and DIY home owner, it has opened up an entirely new way to solve problems.

Background

Waste Woes

But, on the flip side, It has made me so much more conscious of plastic waste. While printing parts in a single colour and making double, triple sure my measurements are right helps to reduce the waste, every failed design and poop nugget makes me ever more conscious.

Doing research, I found that while PLA is technically biodegradable and “compostable”, it requires industrial composting, which is not common, at least not where I live. So I have been stock piling my PLA scraps in hopes that eventually come up with a project for them or a safe place to dispose of them.
My research eventually led to finding PHA, an alternative to PLA that is truely compostable. You can chuck it in your backyard composter! It fully breaks down and has no harmful by-products (1).

Finding PHA Filament

I looked around to find some filament to try out and there were a handful of brands that popped up. I settled on getting some allPHA from ColorFabb. Once ordered, I was flabbergasted at how expensive it was! With 2x 750g rolls costing me $107 canadian credits (~$77 USD) + $58 CAD (~$42 USD) imports! This was in April when new US tarriffs and such had not quite landed, so YMMV. But I went with it anyway, figured It would be a good experiment and provide me $160 CAD worth of harmless entertainment.

One major thing to note here is that not all PHA filament is created equal. Some suppliers, advertise PHA filament that is mixed PLA and PHA (probaby >50.1% PHA) to make it easier and cheaper to make. This obviously still has PLA in it and therefore will NOT compost in your backyard without leaving microplastics. Also worth noting is that ColorFabb’s PHA uses natural and inert compounds to dye there allPHA filament. White requires more dye, so the colouring effects the print properties. Black will print closer to the natural, and white will print notably different (2).

ColorFabb does not make much of this stuff, as it is still difficult to get raw supply and difficult to manufacture into filament. They continue to do runs of it and it seems to sell out on there website pretty quickly, so keep and eye out for a restock and grab some when you can!

TLDR: I don’t like plastic waste and ordered some (expensive) PHA to try out. If you order some, check that the filament is 100% PHA and not a PLA/PHA mix.

PHA’s Important Properties

As I am pretty new to PHA filament, most of this info is based on my research and info provided by PHA filament suppliers and other users. More discussion can be found on r/3DPrinting_PHA page on Reddit.

Basic Properties:

Properties Manufacturer Community
Print Temp: 190-200 °C 190-240 °C
Fan Speed: 100% 100%
Fan off for first # layers 3 1
Bed Temp: 0°C (Bed Heat Off) 0°C (Bed Heat Off)
Recommended Print Bed: Smooth PEI Smooth PEI
Recommended Bed Prep: 3DLac Glue Glue
Recommended Print Mods: Brim Brim + Extra Fans

Special Considerations

PHA behaves differently than other filaments. PLA does not change much with temp and therefore does not have many issues with warping. ABS/ASA expands at high temps and contracts when cooled, so warping is a serious issue requiring a heated chamber to keep it from contracting too much while printing. PHA also warps, but for a different reason. With the glass transition temp of PHA being 5°C, the polymer crystallizes and shrinks. At higher temps, like printing temps, this happens much faster. So, the solution is to cool the plastic down very quickly after extruded. One manufacturer even uses a water-bath to cool the filament down quickly when manufacturing it! Many PHA users have recommended having desk/standing fan pointed at the print bed while printing to help get even more airflow to cool the part. Another recommendation was to raise the print speed to the upper limit of the PHA filament so that the nozzle spends less time over the extrusion, reducing the heat it dumps and allowing the airflow to cool it faster.

Purpose

This is meant to be a shared journey of learning to print with PHA. Recommendations and criticisms are welcomed! Please refrain from adding non-constructive comments that just add noise to the information. I hope this can serve as a place for other’s to come and learn how to work with PHA filament.

[Disclaimer: Reference links like (#) are not necessarily reliable sources. Do your own research if this really matters. I’m just a stranger on the internet trying to learn from other strangers on the internet]

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First Functional Print

I’ve tried the bambu extrusion calibration, and that did not work. Figured I’d stop wasting filament on something that will never have long-term use, and try something else!

I needed a new whistle for my canoeing PFD, so I figured its great place to try it out. Grabbed a model from Makerworld since I’d rather not fuss with the sizing and tuning.

mywhistle_v2.3mf (1.1 MB) Submitted by Federico on Makerworld [1]


Image from Makerworld [1]

Filament Preset

Based on my above research, I set up a custom filament profile for the allPHA in Bambu Lab:

Full Filament Preset


Most notable are 200°C Nozzle temp, 6 mm^3/s and 100% cooling after the first layer (no cooling on layer 1)

Printing

I use a P1P printer with no enclosure. Mostly stock with just a side spool holder and poop shoot. While printing, I used 2 small desk fans pointed at the print bed to get more airflow. These were running the entire time, even for layer 1:


The model was printed with the existing preset (0.16 layer height, 100% infill, 3 walls), with the addition of a 7mm brim. I used the textured PEI bed (only one I have).

Full Sliced .3mf File: mywhistle_v2.gcode.3mf (805.7 KB)

Results

Not stellar, but functional.

After a little cleanup, here are the results:

Issues of note:

  • Warping. Even on this small part (roughly 2in x 0.75in x 0.4in), the back side lifts off the bed slightly. May require a larger fan, increased flowrate, smooth PEI bed, or glue.

  • Rough top surface texture. Partly caused by warping, might also be an issue with over-extrusion. Should reduce Flow Ratio as solid infill also seemed slightly over-extruded.

  • “Gloopyness” on overhang edges. Not sure what the issue is here. Could be a mixture of the corner curling and contacting the nozzle on subsequent layers and a lack of support from the below layers at the sharp overhand corner. This can be seen in the slicer image:


    Additionally, I will enable Arachne wall generation to allow for variable flow at the sharp edges to hopefully have more accurate extrusion. I will also move the seams away from the forward overhang edge to remove that variable.

  • Dimensional Accuracy.

    Dimension Nominal Actual
    Thickness 10mm 10.10 - 10.22mm
    Width 20mm 19.85 - 20.15mm
    Length 56mm 55.78 - 56.05mm

    Hopefully due to a combination of some of the above issues. Warping and over extrusion.

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Print #2

Print 2 went slightly better, much mostly the same.

Changes

I made some adjustments based on my above notes. Relevant adjustments are as follows:

  • Increased flowrate from 6 mm^3/s to 7 mm^3/s
  • Increased Nozzle temp to 210°C from 200°C
  • Decreased Flow ratio from 1.00 to 0.97
  • Enabled Arachne Wall generation
  • Forced the seam inside the model
  • Added a larger, much higher flow, fan
Full Filament Profile





Updated Slicer Screenshot

The changes are not really visible.

mywhistle_v2_print2.gcode.3mf (914.6 KB)

Results

The print was improved in some areas and nearly identical in others. I would say they print was 18% better overall.

More Images

  • Top Surface: The top surface was notably improved. I believe the flow ratio was primarily the reason for this. The center area of the top surface is almost perfect (to my mildly trained eye), but the starts and stops are more rough, similair to the entire surface from print 1. Potentially increasing the acceleration could help? Or finer tuning of the flow ratio.
  • Gloopy Corners: As can be seen in the images, the tight angle corners still have some gloopyness. These updated settings seem to have not changed that much, but it was slightly reduced.
  • Internal Surface: The inward facing “exterior”: walls are slightly smoother and a little more consistent. Likely the higher temp allowing for smoother extrusion.
  • Warping: The part warped almost the exact same as the first print. Maybe the added fan and the increaed nozzle temp offset eachother? Maybe a significantly lower nozzle temp will help?

Additional Thoughts

Now having printed 3 whistles (one before the science started happening), I am realizing that I dont need a stack of whistles laying around and I want to focus more on getting the filament working so I can take advantage of it, so I will be switching to a more through and focused test print model.

2 Likes

Thanks for sharing, I find PHA interesting. Imagine if Bambu started selling it - dialed in with profiles.

What fan did you beef up, the part fan? I may be completely wrong but I would have guessed decreasing the fan would help with warping.