I have just bought the Bambu Carbon Fibre 3D effect build plate for my P1S
Unfortunately I cannot get any prints to stick to the plate.
I have read through this forum and tried the suggestions such as raising the bed temp to 65 degrees, and cleaning the plate carefully before use.
Can anyone tell me the correct settinga for this build plate and basic PLA?
I dont have the bambu-mfr ones, but the effect plates I use from shady aliexpress vendors benefit a LOT from AquaNet Unscented + wipe into a thin layer
Have you run a first-layer test? It’s just a cube primitive scaled to 200x200x0.28 mm. That sheet is unforgiving - any contaminants on the build surface will show up immediately.
I put together a gallery of images to illustrate this. On textured plates, you can’t really see fingerprints, but on smooth dark plates they’re more obvious. Once you print a first-layer sheet, though, everything is revealed no matter what plate was used - dirt, fingerprints, or mis-calibrated filament. Nothing hides.
Make sure the plate has been hand-washed under hot water with plenty of dish soap. If you’re not getting adhesion, it’s almost always bed contamination. In my experience, CF plates and other “artsy” patterned plates are extremely sensitive to first-layer adhesion. My guess is the pattern itself reduces filament contact, but that’s just a theory.
Ich habe gestern genau den selben Fehler mit einer neuen Bambu Carbon Fibre 3D-Effekt-Bauplatte gehabt. Nach einmaliger Reinigung mit Isopropylalkohol hat die Platte einwandfrei funktioniert.
Isopropylalkohol verwende ich eigentlich nicht so gerne, ab jetzt wird die Platte nur noch mit SpĂĽlmittel gereinigt.
Ich habe mit PLA gedruckt und die Voreinstellungen von Bambulab genutzt.
The Bambu Effect Sheets take a bit of getting used to. Besides being absolutely meticulous about cleaning and raising the bed temp to 65°, some do appear to benefit from an initial heat soak. ~2h on the bed at 65-70°C. At least, that was the case for all of mine. Been printing like a dream ever since.
Finally, you can also try to increase the 1st layer nozzle temp by 5-10°C.
Edit: Addendum: Didn’t need to do it myself to date, but a last ditch effort would be a 1st layer line width of 0.6mm (i.e.: 150% nozzle diameter).
Thank you. I too used IPA but it made no difference.
Thank you. I will try all the suggestions. I have already tried using IPA to clean the plate but it did not make any difference. I don’t want to use hairspray or glue as that completely defeats the purpose of a 3d textured plate.
1 Like
Indeed, glue or similar rather defeat the purpose of these plates 
As for cleaning, key is to use plenty of water with dishwashing liquid and a soft cloth. A dash of IPA before cleaning can help a little bit (although I may be imagining this), but the key ingredients are really the dishwashing liquid to grab the oils, etc. and plenty of water to wash it all away. If you only use IPA, the IPA will evaporate after having spread a nice and even film across the plate Repeating it two to three times can help as well.
With brand new plates, give them an initial heat soak on the heat bed to help the sticker glue settle.
& 
1 Like
Yes - I have set it to the smooth build plate option. Still no joy. Trying another celaning and heat soak.
1 Like
Success!
Thank you to everyone for their help.
Cleaning with IPA did not work - as other’s stated it evaporates leaving behind the very thing you are trying to clean off. Washing with dish-washing detergent worked very well.
3 Likes
Super, freut mich …
… und ich habe auch was gelernt …
1 Like
That comes as no surprise.
IPA and soap work differently. IPA is a solvent that dissolves oils, while soap is a detergent with surfactants that lower water’s surface tension and emulsify contaminants so they rinse away. That’s why soap and water clean glass so effectively.
Windex, for example, combines ammonia (solvent) with surfactants, so residues can be wiped off. IPA evaporates too quickly for that, and mixing it with water doesn’t add surfactant action. For build plates, soap and hot water are generally more effective at removing fingerprints and oils.
I use both: IPA for a quick wipe, soap and water for deep cleaning.
I’m having the same issue. I clean mine and every plate with a small spray bottle of dish washer detergent and water and rinse with distilled water. I’m goin to grab all my 3D plates and wash the ■■■■out if them with real hot water in the sink and try again. I will also raise the temp to 65 deg.
It worked but I feel raising the temp to 65 is what did it. I knew there had to be a trick to it.
And now it’s back to not working again. I’ll play with it some more. I’m going to try 70c.
This topic has been solved?!!? Really. Not what I am reading here and in other forums.
So here is what I have. Having same issue for a while so I waited to post this. Is 8 months too long? 
Wanted to make sure it wasn’t me or printer.
Bambu Lab Carbon Fiber build plate. I have the BL starry night smooth plate, the BL Smooth/PEI Textured combo plate, and an aftermarket Amazon smooth plate with military camo patterns. All print with no adhesion issues or problems. However, the BL Carbon Fiber plate with not adhere ever. So before we begin with the comments, I mean since this is solved and all, I have 2 A1 Minis. I make miniature furniture for the dollhouse community (I know…weird hobby). I run the printers almost constantly, all night long on big prints. Whenever I try to use the BL Carbon Fiber, it never adheres.
I run calibration on my printers at least once a month just because. I clean & lube when it asks. I use Super Lube oil and grease. I make sure my hands are clean when I handle my plates. I use 99.9% IPA and a microfiber towel to clean plate each time. I change the towel frequently. I wash all the plates with Dawn & hot water at least once a month.
I have seen on other forums where I see the suggestion to alter the machine g-code Z-axis height from 0.02mm to 0.5mm. So here is my question: BL designed these plates (I assume) for BL printers. I should not have to do ANYTHING to use them other that standard plate variable adjustments; ie. tempurature & speed. I don’t use Silk filament directly on smooth plates as BL Studio advises. All this I understand. I so far have not altered the machine g-code as I keep hoping for a more simple solution. I use BL products as they (hopefully) are designed for BL printers. Am I wrong?
I am ready to trash this plate as the time and headaches are not worth it. I just wonder who or what tested this plate prior to it being sold.
All input appreciated. Please don’t rehash old suggestions. Many of us have already tried them all.
IPA will not do it.
IPA will only dissolve contaminants and spread them around.
WASH the plate in soap and water, then rinse the plate with clean wtare and dry it. Works every time for me with my BL Carbon Fiber plate.
1 Like
Those plates have very poor adhesion, not much you can do besides raising the temp. The only thing I use my CF/PET plate is TPU since it has no problem with adhesion.
Stop using IPA on your plates. It’s worse than nothing at all when trying to solve adhesion problems.
Dish soap, hot water, and a nylon dish brush - I like the cheap Ikea ones. Dry using paper towel - don’t use dish towels as they can be contaminated with fabric softener or other compounds.
Use the high temp/smooth PEI bed setting.
Ensure your PLA is well dried before use.
Out of curiosity, check and see if the nozzle cooling fan is running during the first layer.
Also - are you printing in a cold environment?
1 Like