Bambu Cool Plate SuperTack - I'm Losing My Mind

I’m having the same issue with a wavy first layer on my A1 mini. It’s happened on several different filaments. Matte PLA, Galaxy PLA, and basic.

I’ve washed everything thoroughly, done flow calibration, etc…

Not sure what’s going on, but I’ve stopped using the SuperTack for now.

Have you tried raising your bed temp 5 degrees.

I have tried up to 85 degrees and as low as 65 degrees and my PETG HF still has first layer issues.

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Well, as for the BL PETG-HF, with my shop conditions, regardless of the plate I’m using, I found I had to bump up First Layer temp to 235 to get good results.
But for PLA, and PLA-CF, using the SuperTack plate, I found I had to bump the bed temp to 55 to get proper adhesion.

Personally, the energy saving aspect of these types of plates is of no interest to me. I just want my prints to not fail for lack of adhesion.

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That is one thing I haven’t done, changing the nozzle temp. I’ll give that a go in the next testing. Appreciate it!

Tried as high as 240 and still no dice.

Try this : A1 Series First Layer Print Issues - First Layer Too Low, Hotend Moving | Bambu Lab Wiki it changed a lot for me. The screws need to be retighten with locked-it.

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I was about to ask the original poster what printer they’re using. The A1 series printers tend to have issues with the bolts loosening over time.

Thanks for sharing that link, it’s really helpful!

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Same Problem here, but only with third party PLA, Bambu Black Matte worked fine on one test print…
I switched back to an Aliexpress Smooth PEI, no Problems… Next try will be using SuperTack but Selecting Smooth PEI… I will report back…

The Smooth PEI setting changed nothing, but so far i had no bad results with Textured PEI Plate settings…

So I had the same issue with a roll of Black PLA from Bambu Labs. Whole role was just terrible.

After switching to an E Sun role the rippling improved on my cold plate - but still wasn’t gone.

I tried a lot of things, read for hours, but 2 things made it disappear and print perfect.

  1. HOT HOT HOT water and dish soap, not hand soap but dish soap. I washed the plate 4 times, really scrubbing it as hard as I could. I then let it air dry (don’t use paper towel or fiber cloths as they will leave debris). I had washed it before but not this thorough.
  2. Run a full bed levelling calibration through the menu (the 15min one, not the pre print one). After I had run the levelling I disabled the pre print leveling and to make it used stored values (I hadn’t moved the plate) and it printed PERFECT.

Can finally love this plate for what it is.

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I bought one each of the A1 Mini and A1/X!C size hoping I could stop using glue for everything. But I tried the A1 Mini one 3 times today and the first layer just would not stick. Some parts did. The parts that did stick, stuck really well, but the nozzle ended up dragging around other parts of the print when trying to put down the first layer. I tried two different rolls of black PLA basic and both had the exact same result.

Then I tried the bigger one on my A1 using some PLA sparkle I had loaded in there and it worked perfectly. So I’m not sure if it’s the black filament or the A1 Mini that’s the issue.

So I ended up giving the plate a really good wash with hot water and dish soap, then dried it with compressed air so nothing touched the surface. Now it works perfectly. Everything is sticking like magic. I even did a full plate of little magnets I sell and all of them were perfect. Usually I have one or two near the edge that curl up and ruin the bottom.

100% happy with my purchase now :+1:

this solved the issue for me, tightening the 4 screws in the guide.

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This looks like over extrusion to me. Try turning down the flow ratio from 0.98 to something lower until it looks better. You can also try doing a manual flow calibration. I hope this helps.

Hi All

Hopefully this helps someone else out.

I had the exact same issue as the original poster.
bad first layer

The first layer down on the cool plate supertack, was very uneven and wavy.
No matter how much I cleaned the plate with HOT water and good dish soap or 100% Isopropyl, it would not fix the issue!

After a lot of trial and error of messing with settings I could still not work out how to get this fixed.

Then, I decided to install “Orca Slicer” and do a filament calibration.
What I did was run the “Flow Rate - Pass 1”, and I watched the printer very carefully during this process and noticed that the least extruded test “-20” looked PERFECT on the First layer it put down, and all Flow rate levels above this started to exihibt the same problems. However, the problem was that the rest of the layers would be perfect at a Flow rate ratio of “0” (based on the test plates printed in pass 1, not the filament flow ratio setting :slight_smile: )

This then told me my first layer flow rate was too high! but the rest were good.

Doing some searches, whether it was possible to lower the flow rate only for the first layer, I found this post: Overextrusion on first layer

You can actually lower the first layer flow rate!
The only thing is that its only possible in the Orca slicer (the setting is not available in Bambu Studio).
The setting you are looking for is “Bottom surface flow ratio” in the “Quality” section with “Advanced” turned on.

The value I used was “0.81” , which resulted in the first layer coming out silky smooth!
great first layer

The first layer flow ratio is calculated by multiplying the “Bottom surface flow ratio” value with the filament flow ratio (in filament settings)

Long story short, the lower you set the value the lower the flow rate. Do some testing to find your optimal value.

For reference I am using Bambu Lab Basic PLA and the filament flow rate is set at the default of “0.98”

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I just got the SuperTack Cool Plate and was struggling with first layers until I found this thread.

I have an A1 and was using black BBL PLA Basic at default settings. I tried several calibrations and doing a full bed leveling calibration seemed to help make first layer look ok but not great. Strange thing was that after multiple tests with the print-time bed level setting ON, the first layer gradually got worse until I did another full bed level calibration. And then gradually got worse again with each test with print-time bed leveling.

Based on the previous post, I used Bambu Studio to set flow rate down to 0.8 and first layer is excellent! But this makes the rest of the print not so great with the lower flow rate.

So now the question is, what’s the actual solution other than using Orca Slicer to be able to set the flow rate down for only the first layer?

If you set Bambu Studio to “Develop mode” in Preferences there is a “initial layer flow ratio setting” in the Quality tab

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See the answer below. Seems it is possible in Bambu Studio to lower the first layer flow rate.

However, I would still suggest you give Orca slicer a go. It is functionally the same as Bambu Studio (with added settings and calibration setup built in). It looks and functions almost identical.

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Did orcaslicer use the same viewer options where you can’t go past 90 degrees viewer angle… Sorry if this is newb but that locking to 90 degree viewer angle is really nice, I kinda wish fusion 360 did that.

I’ve been dealing with the same problem. Never noticed an issue with over extruding on the first layer with the textured or smooth PEI plates. I bought the SuperTack because I like the smooth/matte finish look better than the textured look.

However, I’ve been extremely disappointed in the SuperTack. I’ve given up printing PETG on it because of nearly 100% print failures due to poor bed adhesion. I’ve had better luck with PLA, but just experienced a print failure today – again, due to poor bed adhesion.

I wonder if I keep having print failures because of over extrusion on the first layer. I’ve overlooked it as a possible cause, but, as the second and third layer are printed, I’ve noticed the tip of the nozzle collides with the tiny ridges formed by the warping/bubbling on the first layer until it starts to smooth out. I can audibly hear the nozzle “dragging” over – rather than smoothly running over – the previous layer.

Anyway, I followed the suggestion of decreasing the initial flow ratio (set it to 0.8) and started a print. The first layer on the SuperTack plate looked WAY better. Still waiting for the print to finish to see if it warps again on the build plate that’s supposed to have fewer print failures :expressionless:.

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