Hi guys, I’ve looked around for some feedback regarding this printing bed but I haven’t found anyone else with the same problem.
I thought I had purchased a technical plan where it is mandatory to use glue with every type of material and therefore very “sticky” with all materials… and instead I’m struggling to print PETG… I feel like I’ve gone back 10 years.
I tried 4 different type of PETG (Matte, GF, standard) and brand, washed the bed and now I’m trying to go from the default 70° to 85 but it still becomes difficult to print PETG with this bed, absurd.
I also have the smooth and textured plate and print with no issue… I’ve been printing PC and PAHT_CF for years… I shouldn’t be just starting out… and yet I have to curse.
To be honest it doesn’t always happen, once I’ve found the correct sequence of movements, the God of 3d printings gift me the power of adhesion to the printing surface, but this isn’t the case for all materials.
Now the best sequence is:
-Always wash the surface with soap and water before each print
-Spread the glue stick
-With a NEW paper cloth and IPA alcohol spread the glue stick evenly on the surface
-print with 85°C instead of 70°C as per default.
In this way I start to see the PETG that remains attached, but not all the ones I have… some more, some less…
Is it possible that this plate is so tricky with PETG?
I actually have to try with the more noble materials but for now it doesn’t give me much confidence.
Does anyone have the same problem as me? I’m starting to think it’s defective.
well i made my first prints with it yesterday, no adhesion issues, however i printed with abs-gf not petg (petg i print usually on the biqu glacier and it’s fine for that)
i used liquid glue instead of glue stick, and it worked just fine
I will continue to do tests to find the right combination and find out where the error lies. It just seems a little strange to have to struggle like this for a print that is supposed to be entry level.
In the previous video, bambulab glue stick was used and spread evenly with a piece of paper soaked in IPA alcohol. This solution has always allowed me excellent prints on all other surfaces without leaving residues on the printed body.
The material is PETG Matte by Prusa
On the X1C, I found that most prints had a bit of under extrusion in the first, maybe second layer, when printing on an old engineering plate or on a glacier plate. I also had quite weak adhesion.
For the structured PEI plate, BambuLab have implemented an Z-offset of -0,05mm. I have copied that for the engineering plate too, but with an offset of -0,015mm. Since that the first layers are perfect for all finely structured plates like engineering and glacier. I have the feeling that bed adhesion has also improved.
For the adjustment, you have to go to the machine settings, find the start g-code and search for “textured”. Easiest way is to select the entire code with Ctrl + A and copy it to an editor. After the adjustment, copy it back to Bambu Studio.
The Bambu liquid glue has a slight acetic acid odor to it that I haven’t noticed with glue stick so it may bring something extra to the issue. Or not. But when I use the Bambu liquid glue on textured PEI it makes a big difference in printed bits staying stuck down. I’ve got a textured PEI plate that had quit holding things stuck down well on its own. Liquid glue not only fixed it, it lets me print detailed multicolor prints without issues.
I’ve never been fond of PETG on the engineering plate. Use it mainly for ABS and up.
I’ve always used glue just as a releasing agent for PETG on the PEI plates. I would suggest the smooth plate for PETG. Can also be used for ABS/ASA.
The Glacier plate that’s been mentioned is also great for ABS/PETG.
I print exclusively on CFX plates and use glue for almost all prints, depending on the model of course. Never use glue for PLA/ASA Aero as it ruins the model surface for me.
CFX plates are somewhat unique when it comes to temperature management, but I use a maximum of 80°C for PETG HF, 70°C for PLA, 100°C for ASA Aero, etc.
There are two glues I can recommend: Magigoo Original or Magigoo Super Grip. The latter has extremely strong adhesion for most materials.
I believe the Engineering Plate and CFX have similar surface characteristics, so the tips should be comparable. I have never used the Engineering Plate myself; I swapped out my Textured/Smooth PEI for CFX from Darkmoon on day one. For my X1 Carbon, I use WhamBam CFX.
I exclusively use the Magigoo range for adhesion, as I often have a specific glue for a specific filament, but the all-around options are Original and Super Grip.
I tried using magigoo liquid glue, raised the bed temperatures to 85 (compared to 70 by default). The print was successfully completed this time, but as soon as it was finished I tried to detach the pieces and they came off extremely easily (with a still hot surface). At this point I must definitely decree this plan as unsuitable for PETG or at least for my PETGs. I will try with other materials.
However, I have a theory as to why they called it an “engineering plate”:
For me the engineering plate does it’s job but it needs the right glue for the right filament.
For example I printed CPE HT on the plate and added Bambu’s liquid glue and this worked well during print and the parts came of easily after the plate was cold. But on the front part of the plate (where the nozzle priming takes place) I already had some glue stick applied and I didn’t bother replacing it with liquid glue.
Anyway, after priming was done the toolhead moved to the area where printing startet and it just carried the whole priming filament line with it. There was basically zero adhesion with glue stick and good adhesion with liquid glue.
On the other hand, when printing polycarbonate glue stick works just fine.
Again, with engineering plate you need glue and the appropriate glue for the filament.
For PETG I’m using “BIQU Panda BuildPlate CryoGrip Pro Frostbite” which has very strong adhesion for PETG without glue and the items are easy to remove when cold.
btw, hijacking a bit the thread, for the ones that have the engineering plate, is the plate recognition working for you? mine doesn’t work at all, i have to hit ignore and resume at every print (i like keeping the detection on as i do switch between plates quite a bit, so it’s a good reminder)
Thank you for the advice on alternatives, it just seems strange to me that a good quality plate like the “engineering” one requires so many tricks to print PETG… when with the textured or smooth one everything works well, with almost the materials without Jedi tricks.
I’ll have to deal with it. soon I will try to print PAHT and PC… let’s see if with these materials it will be miraculous and will recover the terrible figures made with PETG.
Following a recommendation from someone on the the forum here, i recently bought a Fysetc CryoNix from AliExpress and I really love it for PETG. Adhesion is good, it has a very fine matte texture and it is dirt cheap. Using an engineering plate QR sticker and couldn’t be happier.
Only Sunlu PETG HF doesn’t want to stick to it, but that made already problems the last time I tried it. For Bambu PETG HF and for Sunlu regular PETG it works perfectly.
Yeah, you can always try using 3DLAC that thing works wonders but I do like the biqu glacier surface and it doesn’t need any adhesive, you might want to give it a look
but I do like the biqu glacier surface and it doesn’t need any adhesive, you might want to give it a look