You don’t have to tell me anything. I was simply trying to tell you how to fix your issues. It’s fine if you don’t listen to people and instead sarcasticly mock them. Your loss. Not mine.
I fixed it myself, as you saw previously in this thread. With my bad filament and 4 walls and some modified fan settings. Cheers.
I noticed you made improvements, but both prints from both machines still do not look anywhere close to what I would consider a nice print.
But hey, if it’s good for you. That’s fine. Cheers!
But you offered no soloutions?
1 Like
So what brand of ABS and settings are you using?
There is nothing wrong with Creality ABS. I’ve used it for years. It’s inexpensive and makes quality parts. ABS is a commodity resin in plastic injection molding. It’s all about the same regardless of who makes it, and you buy it from the people who have the cheapest price. ABS as a filament is a little different with additives that make it more easily printable, but - none of those additives makes a difference larger than things like a fan speed setting twice what it needs to be in a default print profile…
1 Like
OK, so I am a newbie to printing and am slightly jealous that you have both an H2C and the CoreOneL. I just have my one and only P1S. Also, I can count the number of large ABS prints I have done on one hand (since I don’t have a heated chamber, large prints would be a challenge for me).
But I would ask if the active heated chambers are similar? Is it possible that the internal chamber temps of the two systems differ and that causes the difference in results? I think that the H2C has active automated air flow, heating and ventilation ? Does the Core1L have similar? If so maybe stick a thermocouple in there on a on a solder wire third hand (where it wouldn’t get knocked out by the print head) and see what the ambient temp is next to the lumpy overhangs?
you’re right on this.
bbl default temp is 60-65c for abs, c1l is passive heated (although prusa claims that it’s actively heated)
meanwhile, bambu profile is a bit more aggressive on cooling settings
1 Like
Hey!
Well, The C1L doesn’t have a dedicated chamber heater, but it controls the heat and prints ABS at 55c. It holds it there consistently +/- 1c over many hours using fans under the print bed and filtered exhaust and inlet cooling fans that modulate the temperature.
Is that active? I think it is, just a different way to get there. On printers I’ve owned in the past that I’ve printed ABS with, I’ve never run them over 55c. The C1L seemed to print the parts fine.
The H2C prints ABS by default at 65c. It’s pretty warm, and I don’t think the part cooling was dialed in fully on the generic preset. After a small tweak to lower the fan speed, the H2C probably made slightly better visual parts than the C1L on its default generic ABS profile.
I could run a bunch of experiments, but I went through all of that years ago during the ‘bad old days’ of 3D printers. Now I just want to design parts and print them. 
The Core One uses a good system to regulate its chamber temp, but I would not call it active. Just because traditionally active refers to having a dedicated heater.
55c is a decent temp to print ABS to avoid warping and adhesion issues, but 60 to 70 is much better for the part itself. Higher chamber temps significantly increase layer bonding, leading to a stronger part. Its not always about visuals.
1 Like
The fan makes it active. It just uses a different heating element. This is how voron folks do it too. Trading off 300watt usage for a longer heat up time
Interesting times, Core one L INDX is due later this year, Core one + INDX kits ready for pre-order.
This bugs me as well… I wonder if it’s the bed. I find moving the print away from the front left corner tends to turn out better. But I’m not 100% that is the full answer, just a piece of it.
Interesting about that fan. I had to change mine from 80% to 100% when printing ABS to deal with poor external threads. H2S has it at 100% as default.