Small question. I’m a bit confused. A least on Carbide version HF nozzle promotion screen on Bambu Site it says “Perfect for Fiber Reinforced Filaments”
Its not recommended but its fine. I have more than 10k hours of printing on bambu printers with 50% of that printing GF/CF on E3D and bambu 0.4HF nozzles. Never once did I have a clog on CF. I already have my H2C tungsten 0.4HF nozzle and printing CF as we speak. They did add 0.6HF and 0.8HF tungsten to the store today, so those should be available soon as well.
i cant make the H2D go faster with the HF tungsten 0.4 Hotheads… as seems you are using them… where the (/&/%$&%&$/ do i have to put a magical setting to make them go as i payed them ? 
the printer recognized them, the bambu studio sync-ed them… the filament setting is direct-drive high volume… but still no improvemet 
The stock HF profiles only print the infill faster, so if the items is very large you can see some speed improvement. Otherwise you have to manually turn up the speeds to see improvement, bambu are very conservative with their profiles for the HF nozzles focused on quality and not speed.
The main reason I run HF nozzle is for the better layer adhesion for engineering parts, not for speed. But I have printed on much faster speeds for prototype ABS/ASA items.
so… as i thought… the default setting isnt usefull if i need speed and i have to change also the printing speed and not only the max volume … the BL setting do change only the max volume 
tnx for the confirm as i bought them for the tungsten (should last more and need less maintanance) and the speed as i would like to get a 10-15% faster speed at same quality (if possibily)
tnx again
As you mentioned in your other post you can use the “Sport” or “Ludicrous” mode as a shortcut for faster printing with HF nozzles. Ive used it before and the quality was still very good.
i’ll do some test as the H2D seems to be “silent” also in sport… but sad about the low-help BL gives with so expencive hotheads
Tnx again and have a nice weekend
ok, got it. I hope it should be ok in long therm. Just have some rolls of CF and GF PETG AND ABS filaments and wondering is it better to change nozzles back to simple HS for them.
It’s a bit different topic. But what I can personally answer here is…
I use SPORT mode with HF nozzles when want to print faster and my H2D printed out all my prints flawlessly. have printed a lot that way with no issues. But i can confirm this is working with Bambu Basic PLA, Bambu PETG HF and SUNLU PLA + 2.0 High Speed. Haven’t tried anything else yet. But if it is Functional print which need to be as strong as possible, I print on standard mode which gives extra adhession with HF nozzle (at least in theory).
0.4 HF nozzles, and HF nozzles in general, are more prone to clogging when printing with GF/CF. However, like @maxim3D, I also print exclusively with HF and have never experienced a clog specifically because of that. My MAKO clogged badly when the fan failed, but that was not the HF nozzle’s fault, and the few clogs I have had on my H2D were also not caused by the nozzle itself. When you operate close to the limits, issues like this are bound to occur sooner or later.
