I had the same experience. I couldn’t print things like the nasa fabric. I bought a noname pei plate on aliexpress for 10euros (search for 1005005193378909 on aliexpress search bar) and the problem was gone. The way finer grain on the noname one is perfect for those small details prints because the surface in contact with the pla is more important. I bet that when I’ll print with petg I’ll be happy to have the bambu plate so it doesn’t adhere as much. PEI Plates should have a grit number like sandpaper.
I found a 3rd party plate on Amazon that is “smooth” but has a carbon fiber micro texture. It works great and I love the pattern it leaves on the surface.
Just to follow up. I ordered a 3rd party textured PEI sheet off of Amazon. I went with this one ( HzdaDeve PEI Sheet for Bambu Lab https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BFCSXVYZ ) and it is now working perfectly. I haven’t lost a single part in the last 20 prints. Thanks for the advice!
No worries mate, at least some consolation in the fact that I’ve helped someone else. I’ve also printed 650 of those key chains on my 3rd party bed so far, and haven’t had a single one fail.
Please note that the latest firmware update brings improvements to the calibration process with the textured plate and it is now supported. The next Studio version will also bring some updates in this regard.
We will update all the remaining information on the Wiki to reflect the new capabilities of the X1 when using LIDAR calibration.
The A1 calibration is done at the toolhead side, and is not related or impacted by the plate used.
Clean only with soapy water… make sure the soap has no additives for colour or smell or any oils for skin conditioning. Don’t use the isopropyl alcohol after as I find that causes the prints to not remain adhered to the bed as well. Once I stopped using the isopropyl my prints started staying attached much more reliably. Also find the temps you said you were using, the higher ones anyway, for most PLAs on my A1 cause them to fail as well. I always go by what the PLA says to use now and have SO much better prints. I have one PLA, spectrum wizard green that says 45 on bed and at 60-65 it starts to have significant warping that has its corners pull away and then increase chance of failing. In fact on lots of PLA I find more then about 5c starts to have the corners pull up due to heat warping. But the isopropyl seemed to cause most of my issues, odd since it evaporates so quickly and I was using 99.9% isopropyl alcohol too. Hope this helps with your issues.
Isopropyl alcohol does not remove oils well, it just smears them around.
I clean my plates according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For the Bambu textured PEI, dish soap and hot water using a brush or a non-scratching scotch-brite (blue) pad. For my Wham Bam PEX plate, 99% isopropyl alcohol with the included scrubber.
And I keep my fingers off of the plate, always. Just by doing that, I can go days between having to scrub the plates.
I had similar issues and found that my nozzle wasnt fully seated properly. It caused days of head scratching, as before I had removed the nozzle for cleaning, it was working fine. It all snapped back in and seemed ok, but then the adhesion problems started. I cleaned the plates numerous times, did multiple calibration tests and experimented with different temps and brims, but nothing seemed to work. I took the nozzle out and gave it a decent scrub with a brass brush. When i replaced it I noticed that the clasp that holds it in, shut far easier. It then started to print without any signs of the previous issue. I had taken the nozzle off 2 or 3 times previously, but my experience was limited with this printer, so I assume I just missed something, or didn’t close the clamp quite properly. If you still have this issue, I would definately recommend giving it a try!
I have exactly the same issue. Swapped everything: filament, nozzles, other side of build plate, printing profiles, recalibrated. Nothing works. I use the see this printing multiple objects, but now it is with every print.
If you’re looking to do yourself a favor, I can offer some advice based on my experience with open-top printers. Get a box that the printer fits into, remove the top and bottom, and place it over the printer while it’s running. This creates a microclimate within the box walls that can be beneficial for your prints. Just make sure the material cools evenly. Avoid using air conditioning, as it creates an airflow. A consistent ambient temperature is key. My X1 was intentionally enclosed because I’m well aware of the issues with open-top printers. I used to improvise by placing a plastic bag over the printer, leaving a small gap at the bottom. It’s no coincidence that there are slicers that allow you to print a protective wall against airflow. I’ve also had excellent results with glass print beds and 3D lacquer as an adhesion promoter. This was a real breakthrough for me in terms of preventing warping, which I used to struggle with a lot. With a glass print bed, warping was reduced to a level that I could accept.
I often hear people say that IPA ‘leaves residue’. I find this difficult to understand. Most brands of IPA consist of distilled water and isopropyl alcohol, both of which evaporate entirely. Unless you’re using that stuff with the witch hazel or something?
The problem with using IPA is that it flashes off (evaporates) too fast. It will lift contaminants/oils off of the bed surface when it is still liquid but redeposit them as it evaporates. Wiping a bed with IPA and a cloth doesn’t remove contaminants as it tends to smear them around more. To clean a bed properly with IPA you will need to flush the contaminates off it which requires a substantial amount of IPA to be used. This is why dish soap works so well. The soap lifts oils off of the surface and binds to them. The plate is flushed with hot water and this removes the oils and soap particles. Does that explanation make more sense?
I’ve been pulling my hair out over the same thing with my new 4th Bambu, I thought that I had a faulty one but I’ve just completely fixed my issue. There are 3 bolts on the heater bed, one of them was slightly loose from the factory. I’ve gone from exactly 7 first layer fails out of 20 objects to 0!
I couldn’t find the solution on google after searching for hours so before sending it back I tinkered with all the bolts. It’s crazy how 3/4 turn on one loose bolt made such a massive difference
There no fkng way I read this entire forum and the last message was the one that solved my problem. Thanks very much man, I was suffering with this problem for weeks
Same issues. Tried glue stick, hairspray, deep clean with rubbing alcohol. Very disappointing. Prints fail over 1/2 of the time. I have more filament in the garbage than in my prints… And my X1C was expensive, barely used and less than 2 months old… other options? thanks
