@ChuckPhD @ADOT - thank you both for information. Yes, it is clear now that there are better solutions for cleaning the hotbed instead of the simple IPA application.
Did you ever print the file I posted above�?
If we printed it on the A1 Mini successfully, all your settings are there.
All you have to do is use the file settings and change the printer & filament temp.
I am sorry, I did not notice it⌠thank you, in one hour i"ll post the result.
Damn it, this Studio software has an advance Quality parameter called âAvoid clashing with wallsâ that is by default unchecked! I cannot believe how simple the solution was⌠I noticed this parameter activated when I loaded lion7718âs model.
This might be solution for all the problems I had for all the models, as well as the solution for the few problems reported by the other colleagues.
I will keep this parameter activated from now on for any model!
Thanks again lion7718 for enlightening ignorant users like me!
The picture shows the current printing status and a new window with the parameter that needs to activatedâŚ
It was not only that as I tried your model with that option enabled but experienced the same failure mode.
Key in my view is @lion7718 dropping the nozzle temp to 210, very effectively reducing curling. Nice solution @lion7718 
That came from using Cura. When I started using BS and looked at the settings, thatâs one of the first things I turned on.
Is by any chance a parameter called âAvoid to destroy the walls supporting the bridges?â
I ask because I just started a print for the second model(s) with repeated fails (drag cable chain) having this âavoid clashing wallsâ activated:
the result was not quite encouraging 
:
Wall Generator: âArachneâ might be better for the chain.
Did the other print from above complete�?
Yes, the first print (the model with arcs) based on your settings was perfect, thanks. This is why I was hoping to get some improvements activating the non wall crash parameter to the models where the issue seems to be generated by bridges - you can see the side walls printed OK and then bent or broken when the layer with bridges is about to be printed.
Regretfully this did not happen.
Try also taking up the lower nozzle temp. It seems to have worked on the interlocking rings, soâŚ
Do you really need a silk dual color for the cable chain? I love the bi-color silk optics but have found layer adhesion to be better with the plain basic filament. So I only really use it for decorative articles.
No, I have printed these chains only in ABS, there is above a picture in white ABS, where the walls are only moved, not destroyed.
But the colleague johnfcooley did a print in green PLA and it came better then I expected; I had that bicolor BL PLA just dried and loadedâŚ
It think I managed to find a major cause for the destruction of the side walls during printing.
The default selected option âReduce infill retractionâ does not reduce anything! It totally cancel the retractions when the print head moves over the infill.
With the option selected there is no retraction and NO Z lift! PRE-POST pictures:
PRE: see the thin blue travel lines over infill not lifted, no retraction, touching / hitting the just printed infill.
POST - You can see the retract - unretract coloured spots and the lift for the travel lines over infill.
Option deactivated, all sidewalls formed correctly and survived up to the creation of the bridges:
Then I got some up-curling and and a nice and decent poor adhesion has kicked in (probably I deserved it ). Anyway, one shiny piece of failed print compared with the blue disaster from above.
From now on is a simple job to get it right!
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I had the same issue. I changed the filaments in the slicer to the correct filament that I was using at the time. I added a dryer in my setup added clue and added those dry beads. I have not had a single issue since then. Allot of great people on here gave me some great tips.
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Finally my thanks to everyone who has commented on this topic. Your ideas, insights and direct solutions or help made it much easier to proceed in the right direction and solve quite a number of topics I had.
Really learning a lot in the last days, I feel now the title of the topic a bit too much - I would probably rephrase now, replacing âthe worstâ with ânot the bestâ
Thanks again!
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Side shot of the center bridging section.
I did add a âtabâ to the spindle clip so that itâs easier to remove.
5 Likes
Thank you, the ABS-GF looks really good when printed.
I know these spindle clips are not quite handy to be used, that extra flap seems to be a good idea. If you have all the dimensions, would be possible to add them to the respooler? I need to print a new set in the next days âŚ
The tab I added was a quick and dirty edition in Bambu Studio to see if it helped for removing the clip. Unfortunately it seems that I didnât save the edit. I did find that the added material did cause a stress point to develop as the whole clip canât flex like your original.
The size/design of the tab needs to be adjusted so that stress point doesnât develop.
Thanks, no worries, Iâll add a small central flap, something to give some better grip, print it, if OK add it to the respooler models.
