So googling and searching for info about these together was fruitless, so I went it alone and ran several experiments and came to some great conclusions I’m happy with for my print farm’s products:
First, the Bambu Lab Coolplate Supertack just says ‘Glue Stick not required’ and that’s it. So can you use Bambu Lab liquid glue on it? YES it works fine, leaves minimal residue, and for my use case, solved my warping issues with PLA. The texture however was diminished, but you cannot see ‘brush lines’ like you can when using glue on the Smooth PEI sheet, the only bad thing is that the coating seems to be used up entirely per print, and so that you do not get shadows on your first layer from previous print shapes, you must wash it off between uses. This will probably be a non-starter for most people.
Second, can you use Bambu Lab Liquid Glue on the BIQU CryoGrip Glacier? YES. Similar results as above, however, very little of it comes off and not much is discernible as previous print shapes, and subsequent prints do not show patterns from previous prints. How many prints can you get from one application? So far I’m going to say 3 without pushing my luck, because I’m starting to see a contrast between the plate and the glue layer.
For my use case, both plates still caused slight visual warping distortion on layers from 2-20 or so with fan off, and even higher with fan on, however the bottoms wereFLAT with Liquid Gluestick, vs completely raised off the plate without. (all prints were printed with stock hotend, and aux fan deflectors angling them upwards approximately 45 degrees, these prints completely fail without the deflectors)
I’ll post photos soon, but wanted to share this info in case anyone else is searching to find out if it works and how well.
One thing I found with the CryoNix plate from Fysetc, which is very similar to the Glacier: I have the strong feeling that at default settings, the first layer is a bit underextruded, which of course affects adhesion. You can magnify the underextrusion by setting initial layer to 0,1mm instead of 0,2mm. This caused actual gaps between the lines when I printed cubes that are only 0,1mm high.
The textured plate has a z compensation, because z homing will touch the hills of the texture. a glacier plate also has hills and valleys and needs some Z compensation in my opinion.
I have added a few lines to the machine start gcode so that Supertack plate also gets some z compensation. With that, first layers at regular 0,2mm look much smoother and bed adhesion also has improved quite a bit.
I have been using Amoybaby silk red copper PLA and it sticks tenaciously to my Glacier, whether its on the H2D or H2C, but I tried the same print with some CC3D Silver PETG and it warped like crazy even with brims. The design is tuned with breaks to prevent warping and yet still warped. Not very good filament. I have some Kingroon Silver PETG I just got in and going to see how that manages on this print, will give the glue a try if it manages to lift.
It’s funny how some filament will stick and stay flat while others will lift, on the exact same part. SUnlu HSPLA prints fantastic, CC3D Black Silk, same, no lift, Overture Silk Copper, but regular old White PLA, lifts. Never know if a filament is going to stick or not until you print, and when the part takes over 3/4 of the spool, this can be an issue, so when to apply glue and when not to.
Yup, same here, there are some filaments I can use bare no glue, for my use case, all silks are needing glue, and a few colors of PLA basic like of all colors: Orange, but not Tangerine Orange matte.
I recently did an ABS job on all 3 H2’s. I attempted to use the Glacier since its, well, states ABS. Warped horribly. Switched to the OEM and read a few different things saying to use the glue stick to prevent it from sticking TOO much, so I did. Bed temps 100C and all 8 parts came out nearly perfect. The corners had a touch of lift but considering the part is 7” x 7” with 5 first layers, 4 walls 30% infill, a tiny bit of corner lift is acceptable, you have to know what to look for to spot it. Going to give the Glacier another try with some glue stick and see if it stays put for future reference.
It was the first time working with ABS and with 3 machines going full blast, it put a nice warm spot in the shop that put the AC unit into overdrive and I finally got the RH% down under 50%, something been fighting since spring when the basement flooded. Problem is that in dehumidifier mode, it gets done to 61* and quite chilly, so the ABS prints were a welcome break.
