Hello there!
I have a small problem with bambu lab p1s when printing with petg (its the same with pla) and printing supports. The first layer that is printed on the supports looks like in the jpeg and its terrible. Any idea how to fix this ? (the blue one is printed with prusa mk4 with the same settings and filament)
Any advice/help would be nice…
If by “fix this” you mean you want these two surfaces to look identical, I’m afraid that is not possible. The technology does not work that way. Your printer is working exactly as designed and as the laws of physics dictate. In other words, “gravity sucks”. 
The sole option to perhaps improve on this is to use an AMS and use water soluble filament for supports and even then, you will not get perfectly flat results like you would as if it were on contact with the build plate.
The problem is i can not change the bottom or top facing surface since the part is symetrical so i doesnt change anything. Also the blue, in the jpeg is the bottom surface not the top, its just printed with prusa. Thats my point. How do i get bambu p1s to print like the prusa with those supports.What i want to achive is that the surface printed on supports will be the same with prusa and bambu.
Unless you somehow got filament to behave in the way nobody has been able to to previously, this image shows clear nozzle lines which means it has not come in contact with a solid surface. That means that is the top surface. So perhaps you may have printed this some time ago and forgot which side is which. That’s one argument for marking test samples with a paint pen when running tests so one does not forget.
Can you share a photo of the other side of both pieces?
i agree in order for it to stick to plate it would need to squish to it and in turn meld those layer lines together, we need to see both tops or bottoms to make a conclusion, i have found normal (auto) supports best for things like these and they turn out pretty decent
unless im seeing it wrong you may still need to peel off some layers on the bambu version sometimes the interface area has a few layers it sticks to the object i have had some that looked like this but after i peeled away more of those rough layers the true model came out much smoother… although i dont see how it would bunch up like that if it was using supports
Amazing, how do you get your buildplate to impart two different textures on the same surface like that? I mean, exactly on the object boundaries?
Even my wall loops have the same texture as the build plate, but in your picture the walls are totally smooth, and within ther confines your have a surface with a different texture.
Maybe your have a build plate with circles on it?
Or maybe you sprayed or smoothed the the bottom of the print afterwards?
[This post pertains to the OP question ofcourse, I realise Olias didn’t print the part. ]
The photos referenced above show a simple issue within the support settings.
The Z support distance is to be seen clearly being to low of a value which results in the support interface layers [support that detaches] not being close enough to the physical models overhanging region.
The standard distance is typically [0.16mm] which generally is too close making supports hard for removal.
I use the listed settings with the same filament you’ve mentioned.
These have become a standard of mine for most cases. Differences in materials change only these settings for me.
Standard Organic Tree supports as well and using complete default settings for the supports themselves.
Ok. Those photos are big help, thanks.
Two thoughts come to mind that you may want to try.
If I were to guess, the photo evidence suggest that there are two different slicer settings at play here. In the blue model, we see the wall layers showing through. Likely this may be because bottom layers were set to zero.
The second option which may help by mitigating horizontal lines is to use the concentric circle pattern. To my knowledge, this feature is only available in Orca Slicer. How this might help is to eliminate the zig-zag stroke of the nozzle and perhaps reduce the droop.
Here’s that setting in Orca Slicer. Note that it is independently available on top, bottom and infill layers, so experiment. But if you eliminate the bottom layer, then just set the infill to circular.
The last setting you may try is to set the fan on 100% or that and a combination of lowering the filament temp. The goal in that experiment is to see if there is a goldilocks zone between filament temp and part fan speed whereby the filament has a minimum drag by gravity because it’s already solidified before it can droop. If you get the mix just right, you might even find that this doesn’t require supports at all.
As a reminder, the two settings are in the filament profile, but you can set the fan speed to 100% via the control panel temporarily for an individual print.
Note: The icon does not become active until the print starts after the build plate has come up to temp. You may be tricked into clicking it thinking it is active, only to find out that the setting didn’t actually stick. Annoying? Yes, but it’s just the way it is. So you will have to click on it after all the filament purge and leveling is done.
I will try this, thank you!
I will try all the options thank you !
The bambu lab has texured bp and the prusa has smooth bp. I didnt do anything else (did use ironing on the prusa)
If you are successful, please share with the community your success and what you did to achieve that success so that others may benefit.
Right, smooth BP. I have used mine so little, I forgot there is anything else than textured PEI! I think I will have to give it a try again next time, along with the settings Olias suggests, to make such a nice bottom surface. I think I just got used to textured BP, but indeed, sometimes it might be nice to have a smoother side, on all sides.
This.
The rough layer on the hanging surface is part of the support - the interface if you had a different material for support. Try cleaning it off with a sharp knife or razor blade
