Ticket is Open.
Quality from this respool is ■■■■.
I’ve had this exact same problem time and time again, where despite following the instructions to the tee, the spool doesn’t fill up the whole space, and you can’t mush it down either. So inevitably the end gets dug down on the edge and jams the whole print.
I ordered like 6 refills in my last order and I think 4 of them had that problem. It is really frustrating, and I am tempted to put on my tin foil hat and say this is intentional to make us spend more money on the full spools. I hate to say that, but this has been a problem for so long. They addressed and fixed many other problems due to feedback but this never seems to get fixed.
I thought I was having a skill issue moment but seeing everyone here complain about the same thing alleviates those concerns
Guess I’m just gonna avoid bambu filament from now on…
If the knots dont get you, the tape at the end of the spool will
The actual filament is great quality when it works. Way too unreliable for me
I’m gonna drop a link to my reusable spool here. I think when I last spoke in this thread was before I made it. I made this spool to help alleviate a number of the potential issues that can happen when using refills.
The quick gist; the spool halves screw together, essentially clamping the spool around the filament. This helps tighten things up so the filament doesn’t drop to the side.
I will say too, that you can’t really judge a wind by just looking at it in it’s wrapped plastic. I’ve had a lot of refills that I thought might be dodgy but printed just fine. Of course, my spool helped make sure things keep printing fine. 
I think they’ve mostly solved this. I’ve got so much back stock of bambu filament though, that I’m pretty sure a good chunk of the rolls have the tape issue. 
3 Likes
Ditto
1 Like
Feel free to skip to the bottom of my post if you don’t want to read my inane rambling to provide context. I hadn’t realised I wrote a novel until I was finished lmao. _(:3」∠)_
The original print profile and your description states that ABS works best and while I am not arguing for or against that I’m curious if you’ve personally tried one of the other submitted profiles that use PLA or PETG?
I’d love to use ABS and intend on researching into those enclosures with air vents for the A1’s internals so they don’t end up getting fried due to overheating (albeit at my own risk which I fully acknowledge is my responsibility and not bambu’s problem if I break anything because of it), but –
the tl;dr:
Do you think one of those PETG profiles might be good enough? The only reason I ask is because I cannot print in ABS with an A1. Thanks!
Just lie to your computer, and tell your slicer you have an X1 or P1 w/ ABS. Export the ABS filament profile. Switch back to your A1. Import the filament profile. There’s your starting point.
I find I can print ABS on my A1, but only small parts. It can’t have lots of surface area on the plate, and it can’t be tall. If you’re familiar with the Dummy 13 project, his bones are about the limit of size I can do without endless and constant warping failures.
EDIT: Also as a safety warning re: ABS + A1, take care of styrene gas coming from your open frame printer. It should not be in a room that living things are in, and should have consideration for airflow exchange to the outside
1 Like
Same problems constantly having this issue. Follow the instructions on how to load the spool and then press down keep tension maintain the rolls in storage. Constantly getting pulled to the side and binding on 4 of my recent refill rolls. I don’t know what changed or how i suddenly am messing things up with loading my rolls but i cant stand it. I’m really losing faith in buying refills from BL.
I have purchased SUNLU refills and have yet to have this problem. I cant imagine they do anything different? But yea only buy full rolls from BL from now on.
Sorry I missed your question! Feel like I haven’t been getting notifications on replies.
I mean, you can print it in filament other than ABS. PLA/PETG would work, probably even TPU, depending on the TPU.
The issue is more so that if you’re drying it, you want to pick a filament that has a deform point above your drying temperature. I choose ABS because of that.
I would probably recommend PETG. Not Bambu’s PETG-HF (Not that you can get it anymore anyway), but regular PETG. The PETG-HF has a lower deform point vs regular PETG. That should work for anything you’re doing on an A1
I’d also recommend PETG over PLA because PETG has better layer bounding, in my experience. Avoid PLA Silks especially! They have the worst layer bounding in my experience.
Since the two halves screw together, there’s a few points where there will be a lot of pressure on the layer bounds, especially where the screw/inner portion connects to the side/outer portion of the spool. Hopefully that makes sense. 
3 Likes