Please note that this video series has been created as supplementary material in addition to the official BambuLab wiki - not as a replacement. The intention is for:
Prospective buyers who in two minds to be able to see the actual upgrade and how involved it is, in order to determine if it is something they can accomplish.
To help those who have purchased, by showing a clear view of the upgrade process, used alongside the official guide.
Or just view for fun if you have an interest!
Either way, please do feel free to share your thoughts! This was a tough project to film and produce, and I do hope it helps!
Waoooh! Very nice videos and very professionally done. Congrats!
I did not use the calibration blocks during my install simply because it was not in the guide but I found it in the induction hotend rack height calibration wiki, it may not be required but it’s a nice addition and something I will look into
I found the rack was out quite a bit from the nozzle, a good 2mm or so. Hence went ahead with the manual calibration since it was relatively quick and easy.
I didn’t tram the bed - thought I would do that if I needed to later on - but found I didn’t need to in the end after the calibrations etc.
I find it quite fascinating when printing a model, and find myself watching the print for a while - now with the Vortek kit it’s even more fascinating watching those nozzle changes! An impressive bit of engineering there! lol
You awekened my curiosity with those calibration blocks so I had to print them :). Found out my installation was perfect, was I lucky I don’t know but I understand now it could be off and BL should certainly include it in the guide (like the cable replacement…) rather than having to search it in the wiki database if the calibration fails.
I just wonder which printer printed those blocks in the wiki, they are so badly printed it’s really not good marketing material…
Agreed - it’s an easy enough step, and considering you’re upgrading a 3D Printer it’s not like you don’t have the means to print them beforehand…
I was surprised the AP board cable replacements were still not yet in the wiki guide though - thought they would have added that in by now!
Even the packing list on the wiki shows just a PTFE tube in package 10 - the AP cables are not listed, so I guess there is a little updating still to be done. Saying that, it’s a straight forward enough swap, but they should at least mention it on the guide whether users wish to swap them over or not…..
Saying that, what exactly was the short PTFE cable for?? I found that was spare and not used either?…..
I did not use the PTFE as well as so far the AC board cables. I plan to exchange the AC Board cable soon, but due to them missing in the guide, I did not do it during the upgrade.
As well as if my left nozzle is printing at the most outer edge the flow blocker on the right nozzle has an about 0.3 mm gap until it would hit the nozzle rack frame. I think I need to have a look at this as well, since as soon there is minimal build up on the right nozzle it will crash…
I do not know if there is meanwhile anything mentioned in the guide, to align the rack correctly. But as I did the upgrade there was nothing…
At the front the gap is much smaller as on the rear.
Given that they provide the 4-1 splitter in the kit, it certainly is to be installed between printer and splitter for those who do not already have one and just purchased an extra AMS2 to go with the kit.
I found the upgrade to be pretty straightforward and easy. Just take your time and follow the instructions. Read and read them again as you’re going through the build and you should have a decently easy time with it. Thanks for the video. I didn’t hav the vid when I did my upgrade but it will help many others I am sure! Nice job!
Don’t rely on the email notifications - check the website daily!
I had the email notification set and I found the kit in stock by chance one day. Ordered, installed, and all up and running…….and I still haven’t had the email notification come through!
I just checked several times a day. In the EU store the first availability period was only about 1.5 days. So checking once a week or irregularly may not help.
I have a question. I installed the Vortek Kit a few weeks back, everything seemed to be okay for a while. However, lately I have been experiencing occasional layer shifts. My question is about belt tension. Did anyone make any adjustments to their belts during, or after the installation? When do they need adjustment? Or is it self-adjusting with the belt tensioner? Will a full calibration detect loose belts? I just followed the instructions, and nothing was mentioned. Thanks!
I didn’t touch belts - just make sure the screws attaching the brackets to the toolhead are nice and snug. I’ll be doing my first multicolour print to test the system out since upgrade tomorrow - will report back!
