Banding / Ringing type artifacts?

them layers are bad really for a £700 hundred pounds machine …its just like the matrix …maybe we should of taken the red pill and gone to prusa or voron lol

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It’s PLA and I use my own profile in bambu studio

Awesome, please can you provide me the profile? Which Plate + Noozle + Layer Height do you use? I use 0.4 noozle with textured PEI and 0.20mm standard layer height.

Solved? I didn’t see any solutions…

Not me saying it, the system is saying it.

Reply to this post. When you open the reply window to the right you’ll see the preview window, but it’s overlaid with a message that “This topic has been solved”.

The OP must have marked one reply as the solution. :wink: :slightly_smiling_face:

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The best way to tune your profile is to use OrcaSlicer. It has many more calibrations than Bambu Studio currently has. It’s the same software, but has advanced settings and calibrations. I posted a PSA about the differences here:
https://forum.bambulab.com/t/psa-up-your-game-studio-softfever-orcaslicer-arachne

You can have both Bambu Studio and it on you system side by side, they don’t interfere with each other.

Some people use it to tune their machine and copy the settings over to Studio, but I find it silly since they are the same software. If you don’t want to use the advanced settings you just leave them alone and just use the calibrations to tune. The Author, SoftFever, keeps it current with BL Studio.

Copying profiles from machine to machine gives you ‘pretty close’ settings, not the same settings as each machine has small variations. These are precision machines. You still need to tune for your filament and your machine for best results.

For instance, PLA from one brand may print entirely differently than another PLA. Each is a unique blend. Even within a brand you can get variations within different reels! That’s why it’s better to stick with major brands as the $4 savings isn’t worth the trouble. The better ones are more consistent. :grin:

The much better way is to tune your machine yourself, this also teaches you more about the process and settings so when you get a tough to print model you recognize what can be done. 3D printing is a hobby (or business!) of constant learning! :wink:

I don’t think there is anything they can do to fix it, those parts are not replaceable are they?

Basically any part is replaceable. It is just a question of how much you are willing to disassemble the system.

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Don’t see any way to fix it on existing machines. They may do a running change with either a within diameter specification or toothed idler. More than likely a new model will be the fix.

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I have measured VFA period on mine, it is different on different speeds, and pitch is not 2mm.
One was 2.4mm, the other 1.06.

I’m 99% sure it’s not the smooth idler. I may have done some testing. That’s a red herring.

My X1C has very similar VFA using the OrcaSlicer test model like everyone else below 150mm/s or so, more in every axis but Y. You can also very much hear some resonance yourself from the steppers while it’s moving in X vs Y, especially at low speeds. I have a suspicion it can be fixed with firmware changes, as they’re using digital motor controllers.

It’s overall a heck of a lot better than every other printer I’ve ever used, but I wish this could get fixed - there’s a few materials that just don’t print well at high speeds (e.g. TPU) and the VFA patterns show up pretty strongly.

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The idler minimum diameter is quite literally specified by the belt manufacturer in their documentation…

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Yep, and the idlers in the X1/P1P are half of the minimum 12mm, minimum is ~23mm, they should 100% be toothed for the 2 on the front of the belt.

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This was my thought… wouldn’t some toothed idlers help with the toothed belts? I mean it’s not hard to imagine that toothed belts on a smooth idler would cause some vibration. Would anyone think a printed smooth to toothed cog modification for the couple of idlers that would matter could help?

Had they gone by the manufacturer specs then the on-off tooth vibrations wouldn’t be an issue but they went with an idler almost half as big as it should be. It’s a serious issue but in the end they got a bunch right and I’d hope that they will correct in a new revision of the printer. Sadly it’s not something I see them correcting on the current models.

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These issues have been extremely problematic.
The best I could get from support was to
raise the temperature. This does nothing.


It is worst on the X axis.
Does anyone have a guide on the ptfe tape?

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I actually have toothed versions, but replacing them is fairly involved, the entire motion mechanism needs to be removed from the machine, and the pins the idlers are on are pressed in from the top.

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The problem of the Bambulab printer is that it is so cute that it is hard to dare to disassemble it :slight_smile:

Anyway are you 100% sure it will resolve the problem ? would you be ready to bet 1000$ on this ?

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Not much change if any.

https://www.printables.com/model/448655-bambu-xy-idler-pulley-toothed-mod

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Well done MadGoat! Good warning on your printables page as well.

I was hoping this would be the golden ticket. The logic was sound.

Now what?

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