Banding / Ringing type artifacts?

Ah, you need the wide ones. Then 7€ is a good price, basically what Misumi is selling them for in small quantities.

The pulley with the two nylon carbon gaskets, you have to install them bellow and above the pulley.

I would take smaller pulleys.

The toothed one what i buy have 7mm so ein need more washers or a 3d printed part.

The other pulleys i think the same, smaller.

Install the washers are not easy but makable.

Could you please post pictures of your modd and provide links to parts.

And also perform a VFA test from Orca.

Thanks

You can buy gaskets here : https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/4000880527421.html

and pulleys here :
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/33023133633.html

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Wtf dude
Hello, don’t stress so much, what do you want?

I’ll publish if I want

This pictures are with manual tensioner

In real life it looks better than in the photo

The corners are also square, it wasn’t like that before


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Measuring the motor load in the firmware

Can we do that on the Bambu printer or do we need the X1 Plus firmware installed?

This should be something end users can view in the stock Bambu firmware. Anyone know how?

Also, I am suffering from Banding as well. I have a forum thread on my current problem.
https://forum.bambulab.com/t/bambu-abs-warping-issue

After a long communication with Bambulab support, I finally received a response.

" Please our printer is fast printer and in order to do this it has to be run outside the natural resonance zone of the frame and motion system.
You need to have on the outer wall above 160 mm/s or very very slow.
A workaround for this would be to print everything else slower and the outer wall only fast"

Nothing was solved, but it is clear that these printers are far from trouble-free. My problems are these ripples on the prints. Dimensional accuracy issues. Imperfect filtration, which is just for marketing. My MK3S+ achieves better results with less tuning required. I don’t enjoy tuning printers; I’d rather design and draw 3D models, which I don’t have much time for now due to tuning and dissatisfaction.

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Support staff will send you a 3MF file to print. The print is this cube here. Granted my printer is having some trouble at the moment.

Take the manual tensioner from me on makerworld.
I have 0.05mm max.
I think the springs are not good

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this manual tensioner doesn’t allow to tilt pullet to center belt on pulley.

I meant pulley.
But this might help:
https://www.printables.com/model/459456-bambu-lab-printer-x-y-squareness-check-adapters

My belt doesn’t run in the middle either. This is probably because the frame is not 100% square. That’s why they have such long treads

I wonder if there’s any way Bambu can do something like monitor the motor resistance which may fluctuate slightly as the belt notches make contact and then apply a slight axis over-correction to cancel it out.

Or, perhaps some kind of calibration mode where it prints a low wall and then uses the lidar to calculate the variation and again apply some kind of over-correction on the axis in order to cancel it out as much as possible.

No idea if I’m talking nonsense or if something like this might be possible.

but it should. if Your belt is not in center on the pulley where teeth are touching pulley surface then you will get more vertical lines. because each time teeth goes on edge of pulley it jumps on its position.

it should be like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ek0-ohhUysY

But I still have problem like this:


This pulley is connected with rear tensioning pulley on same side. And even when I move belt on tensioning pulley to be in upper position:

I can’t force this belt to move up a little bit on front pulley.

On the other side it is better.
I centered rear tensioning pulley and then belt centered on front right pulley.


I think that I need to move 1mm up this pulley, but dont know how.

i know but i cannot center it, when there are in the back okay, in the front they are not. so i think the frame is not in square. many others have this problem.

Mine is getting worse. Oddly, it’s only on the X axis and only when going from right to left. See this print. It was printed with the long bit axross the X axis.

Tension Your belt and center it on pulleys. My vertical lines disappeared almost to 0.

Uploading: 1D77EC5F-1928-4645-9FE3-D28BAE4BFC2E.jpeg…
I’ve battled this since the beginning with our X1C…

My sole conclusion since it tends to disappear at slower print speeds (mainly Outer Wall) is simply the harmonics from the motors to the belts through the Pulleys driving the head…

I modded my good ole Ender 3v2 which I wouldn’t call it that now, but it prints great except for adding the linear rails (XY) made vibrations travel even more but all the harmonics was transfered to the toolhead…

Might be the same issue but not so severe due to the distance and objects its going through.

I’ve done this so many times now. Just for luck, I tried again. Spent 30 minutes centering the belts and tweaking the angles one way or the other.
No difference.

Hi folks !

I’ve installed the modified X axis with the toothed pulley this morning.

Calibrated everything and performed a VFA test from Orca.

The problem is solved at 98%.

It’s not 100% because there is still some very little ringing visible around 90-12mm/s, but the rest is perfect.

It took me 4h to change the axis, it’s something that must be done slowly and carefully as it require a lot of parts removal.

Changing the pulley was rather complicated, especially putting in place the nylon carbon gaskets.

Will see in the next few prints if it was really worth the efforts and costs.

I’ll keep you in touch.

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