Bed levelling after full calibration

[Flamebo]

I recently added a cement paver and anti-vibration pad under my X1C. After I did this, I did a full calibration including bed levelling. When I started a test print the nozzle started scratching the bed.

Why does the printer forget the bed levelling done in calibrations?

[oddsandsods]

Have you manually trammed your bed following the wiki guide? When I do this I like to use a fela gauge of 0.04mm and adjust the screw until it traps the gauge then back off the nut a bit until the gauge just moves.

Manual Bed Leveling / Manual Bed Tramming

[Flamebo]

Thank you. I have not done the manual tramming. My issue went away when I redid the bed levelling before another test print. It was just strange that the “calibration bed levelling” was “forgotten” when I did the first test print.

[GenericUser]

Sometimes odd bits of filament on the nozzle throw out the calibration, other times it can be the plate is not in place (sitting on the back guide). I’ve had it happen like this once and just redid a bed mesh and it has never bothered me again. Check the nozzle is reasonably straight, the purge lines are a good guide.

[Flamebo]

Thank you. Although I have my doubts that it was debris or plate position it is definitely a possibility.

Could it be a software issue?

[GenericUser]

I’m sticking with the temporary hardware issue (clumps included). Software glitches happen, but I’m certain it’d be more than a once off in that case.

[Olias]

Is it truly scratching the surface of the bed itself? Is it leaving marks on the build plate?

[oddsandsods]

Could of been a failed calibration but it could of also been caused by debris between the bed and the plate that caused the plate to flex during levelling which would give a lower bed heigh during calibration thus causing it to catch the bed. When the plate was removed after the failed print I imagine the debris came off.

[Flamebo]

It did scratch the bed yes.

[Flamebo]

It is possible, although did not notice any debris.

[Olias]

There would be no debris. You would see “permanent” and “unmistakable” scratches on the build plate that cannot be ignored. This leads me to believe that what you are witnessing isn’t nozzle collision with the bed. So it is unlikely that you are experiencing a bed leveling issue.

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If I can share one thing that I’ve learned in the last 14 months I’ve participated in this forum and possibly counter the plethora of bad advice one will get both here and on YouTube: Don’t overthink things. Too many people chase bed leveling as an issue before ruling out the more obvious and easier things to check first.

From what you stated, if you haven’t already checked the basics and the fact that you added a paving stone, indicates you might have succumbed to the urban legends and myths surrounding vibrations influence on the printer. Here is a link to a video that debunks all the myths surrounding table vibration in modern 3D Check out this video on the myths of table vibration in modern 3D printing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D-eLhKdKAdk After watching, consider your options.

Don’t get me wrong, adding a paver under your printer isn’t a bad idea, but not for the reasons some might believe. I might get one someday—not to improve print quality, but because a $10 paving stone is an appealing idea for the purposes of reducing noise by dampening vibrations.

I’ve only seen one post in the last year where someone claimed manual tramming fixed an issue. To be honest, in that case, it seemed more likely that the user was the type to adjust a carburetor before checking if there was gas in the tank. Too many people who are holdovers from the Ender 3 class of build-it-yourself kits still tinker with screws and knobs before trying simpler solutions. Tramming should be the last thing you check. This isn’t like an Ender 3 kit—everything on modern printers is performed at the factory by skilled professionals with the proper tools.

We’re all tinkerers here, and the urge to ‘improve’ factory settings is strong. But try to resist this and before you start adjusting anything, ask yourself: Are you confident you know what you’re doing? Altering factory settings without fully understanding the root cause could make things worse.

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Now, regarding the issue you’re facing: it’s common for the nozzle to scrape the top if any of the following happens:

1. The first layer doesn’t quite “stick” to the build plate.
2. Poor layer adhesion due to filament issues (moisture, lack of calibration, etc.).
3. Incorrect nozzle temperature, causing layer adhesion problems.
4. Lack of brims causing layers to peel up.
5. Various temperature issues, such as with the part cooling fan, improper bed temp, chamber fan, or draft in the chamber.

Before you grab a screwdriver, there are some simple tests you should do first:

1. Have you manually calibrated your filament?
2. Have you run a first layer test? In a perfect setup, the first layer should produce a 240x240x0.20 sheet of flawless filament.
   • If you believe you have a clean plate, the first layer test will show where you missed cleaning. It’s also unforgiving if your filament is poorly calibrated or moisture-laden.
3. It will reveal which parts of your build plate are bent, uneven, or if your bed leveling is off.