Best filament for a battery enclosure?

Hmmm. I think I may see now the source of my confusion. This picture illustrates:

Different particle counts are used to arrive at some sort of particle “quality” number, as designated by a PM prefix. But, as illustrated in this figure, through sloppiness PM gets prefixed onto things which aren’t that, leading to my confusion about what is what. To your point, I think I care more about particle counts than I do about these PM numbers, especially since we are most concerned about particle density at the low end of the range, such as 0.3 in the sensor shown in this picture…

By the way, I did try this very off-the-shelf product, and I think it may have done better at detecting stuff than anything else I’ve tried. And faster too. However, although it can log data to a micro-sd card, it’s not wireless, and you have to pull out the micro-sd card and read it on a computer, which way behind the times. I ended up not keeping it, but I may try it once more, now that my focus has shifted from general environmental to 3D printer pollution. Probably better would be to see what sensors it’s using and simply get those, because then I could eventually find some way to get the data both real-time and remotely.

https://www.amazon.com/BRWISSEN-Pollution-Particulate-Analyzer-Formaldehyde/dp/B08K7DTKN2/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2DEA0DDHY8Y4&keywords=a18+air+quality&qid=1707616258&sprefix=a18+air+quality%2Caps%2C119&sr=8-3

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I think the fear of absorption of fumes and VOC from printing ASA, ABS etc. is a bit overdone. Not saying they’re good for your but as long as you’re not sitting right next to your printer the whole time sucking in the fumes, you can get by with a decently Bento Box and a well ventilated room. I can’t smell much coming from my printer, ASA and PC appear to be the worst in this regard.
Now my resin printer, that’s another story. They are by far and away MUCH worse smelling than any FDM and the health effects are likely worse also. Uncured resin is very well known to be toxic and some people have developed severe skin allergies just from being in the same room as the printer. Despite this, manufacturer’s are only just starting to include small carbon filters into their printers. And the post processing chemicals are also bad for your lungs and skin.

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Just a quick note here to close the loop on finding a suitable sensor, for anyone who might be interested in that.

I looked at all the sensors available on mouser, digikey, and aliexpress and was disappointed to find that the minimum particle detection size was at least 0.3um for all of them. i.e. this industry seems to have stagnated, because more or less the same sensors have been around for years now, with seemingly no subsequent improvements during that time. Well, I was both surprised and disappointed by this, since the big concerns being referenced in the scientific literature right now is in regards to “ultrafine” particles, which by definition is particles of size 0.1um for less. i.e. ultrafine particles would be invisible to all these sensors, which is perhaps why mine seem to barely notice anything, even if I put them right up next to my X1C.

I did find a company (TSI) in the US that makes an impressive little portable hand-held unit that can measure all the way down to 0.01um. On its face it appears to be very nicely engineered. For anyone who really, really wants to know what’s going on, that would be the one to get.

Luckily, before throwing int he towel, I did finally come across what might be the perfect compromise, which is a sensor made by a Canadian company that can measure down to 0.1um for just $99:

The full eval kit is something like $200, which I think is pretty reasonable when you compare its alleged capability to the many seemingly low quality consumer devices on the market, some of which are selling on amazon for more than that.

Some good discussion going on - I did some further research about the risks and thought I would add my 2 cents.

So as @NeverDie already mentioned, the main risks risks from 3D printing being discussed in various papers and articles at the moment are harmful VOCs (i.e. a variety of toxic vapours such as styrene, formaldehyde, hydrogen cyanide, etc.), and particle emissions.
I found a few helpful articles, such as this one, which contains a good summary of the issues and several links to scientific papers, etc.

One of the papers in question is this one (https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/02786826.2017.1342029), which mentions that most of the particles in question are on the order of 500nm (0.5um aka PM0.5) all the way down to a few nm, with particles less than 100nm (PM0.1) being considered ultrafine particles (UFPs). The paper says how generally the particles are first formed incredibly small when they come out of the nozzle and molten filament, and it mentions that overall, 90% of the particles by particle count are <100nm, but by mass more than 80% are >100nm.

Now according to other studies such as https://pubs.acs.org/doi/10.1021/acs.est.9b04168, it is known that “Ultrafine particles are potentially harmful because they can deposit in the respiratory tract, enter the blood stream, translocate to remote organs, and damage mitochondria because of their specific properties.”

Therefore, the high amount of toxic UFPs generated by 3D printing by itself might seem alarming. And if like me, you originally thought that given that standard HEPA filters are rated to filter particles that are 300nm or bigger with 99.97% efficiency, then that must imply that they they cannot filter UFPs effectively then it would be worrying. Counterintuitively though, a HEPA filter’s efficiency actually increases as the particle size decreases below 300nm. I found a good article here which explains exactly how this process works, and that some of the marketing you can find out there for air purifiers will say that they don’t work under 0.3um, when in reality this appears to be untrue:

So in general, a HEPA filter and activated carbon filter inside the enclosure (such as bento box, but nevermore does not have HEPA afaik) should in theory filter out the UFPs and VOCs, so long as they aren’t escaping in significant quantities through holes in the enclosure.

So the only thing that remains that I’m unsure about is air quality monitors. Since we established that a lot of the particle emissions from printing are <0.5um, and the majority of those are <0.1um, I wonder if standard PM2.5 sensors can even detect particles that small, and if not, is it even worth getting such a sensor if they can’t detect the vast majority of the particle emissions from the printer?
By definition, supposedly PM2.5 means 2.5um or less in size, but logically you would assume that there is some resolution limit on the smallest particle a sensor can detect, so if it only says PM2.5 but not PM0.1 or less (which would be the most relevant in this case), then I wonder if it can even detect UFPs?

P.S. An interesting side note, is that another article (https://pubs.acs.org/doi/10.1021/acs.est.9b04168) mentions that the hazard per particle mass is actually roughly the same for both ABS and PLA, and that when mice were exposed to these particles, “PLA-emitted particles elicited higher response levels than ABS-emitted particles at comparable mass doses”. However, the reason that ABS is considered more toxic, is simply because it emits a lot more of these particles than PLA does, so the total exposure hazard is much higher for ABS than PLA, with Nylon being in-between the two.

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I think I may have at least some partial answers for some of your questions regarding sensor performance.

The best place to get reliable information about any particular particle sensor’s performance is in the datasheet for that sensor. Most consumer grade air quality monitors don’t provide that level of detail and, for the most part, they also don’t volunteer exactly which sensors they are using. If you’re lucky, someone may have done a teardown of a particular air quality monitor that interests you and afterward posted the names and model numbers its components, so you can sometimes find out that way. If that doesn’t pan out, you may have to buy one and look inside yourself to see which components were used.

IIRC, at least two people in the forum here have reported that they were able to measure an increase in particle detections by putting their air quality monitor near their printer. One of those was the AirGradient air quality monitor, which he said uses the PlanTower PMS5003 sensor.The other person reported in this forum that he was able to get particle detections using one of the Ikea air quality monitors… I haven’t heard yet which sensor it might be using.

I reported earlier that I had put a couple different consumer grade air quality sensors near myX1C and run a small PETG print job, but neither reported any meaningful change in measured particles. I should maybe try again, as there may have been some comfounding factors at the time I had tried it. The readings definitely did not show a sudden spike in detections of any kind.

So far I’ve looked at a couple of datasheets for typical, inexpensive particle counter sensors, and nothing I saw there led me to believe that the sensors could detect any ultrafine particles. However, 0.3um was within their detection range. We can spin a theory on how that might be useful as follows: since 0.3um is supposedly the hardest size to filter, then if you’re running filtration and your sensors indicate that you have have managed to knock down all the 0.3um size particles, maybe (?) one can conclude that by then you’ve mopped up all the ultrafine particles as well. If this theory actually holds water, then maybe doing this is “good enough.”

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If you are UK, the “simplest” and cheapest solution to particle detection is to put the printer in a grow tent (for plants) and vent the tent out of a window. There are no “weird” laws that prevent this in the UK so long as you are not venting into an apartment block hallway. The equipment is all very cheap and easy to obtain from garden centers or DIY (what the UK calls self-repair/home improvent) stores.

(EDIT You just need a grow-tent, a tube, and a fan, or they sell kits for it for people that grow special plants)

EDIT2 This only applies to home users. Businesses must comply with additional environmental protection laws.

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Yes, different method that’s aiming for the same outcome. Maybe the only reason to consider a sensor for that approach would be that it could perhaps confirm when/if you’ve vented long enough and you can go pick up your print. On the other hand, if you have great ventilation, maybe in that instance a particle sensor and/or VOC sensor would be overkill.

Yes, exactly - you mentioned the PlanTower PMS5003 so I managed to find a datasheet for that here:

Similarly, I found an article that did a teardown of the IKEA Vindstyrka AQ monitor here:

which mentions that the sensor used is a Sensirion SEN54, for which the datasheet is here:

Now looking at both of these datasheets, you can see that the minimum particle size that can be detected is 0.3um. Interestingly, as I mentioned before, the definition of the PMx categories is detecting the mass of particles of that size and below. And looking at the SEN54 datasheet for example, you can see that this is implemented as expected where every mode from PM1 to PM10 includes particles down to the minimum resolution of 0.3um, so I would expect it would work the same for the PMS5003 too.

So you can see that neither of these sensors can directly detect any UFPs, because they are below their minimum particle size.

Now the way that normal PMx ratings work is by detecting the mass of particles in that size category to give a ug/m3 reading, but as shown in this article, an additional problem is that because UFPs are so small, their mass is also small, so they would barely change the ug/m3 reading, even if the sensor’s minimum particle size was small enough.

So really in order to properly detect UFPs, a sensor would need to have a minimum particle size on the order of about 10nm or less (rather than the current 300nm for those 2 sensors), and it would need to have either a true particle counter, or if it was doing it by mass, then it would need some kind of special detection category to filter by only UFPs (such as PM0.1), as well as a high resolution on the ug/m3 reading in order to see the small mass increases caused by UFPs.

So we know that normal AQ sensors cannot detect UFPs directly, but what about indirectly?

Well according to this study that I linked previously (https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/02786826.2017.1342029), the breakdown of particle emissions from a 3D printer as size vs mass shows that for a “long” print job (7 hours+), only 14% of the total mass of the particle emissions are 300nm or bigger. And for shorter print jobs, the ratio is even worse, with 12% or less being 300nm+ (i.e. detectable).
The paper says that the reason why shorter print jobs have a higher concentration of UFPs is because a lot of the particles are first formed as very small (<7nm), and then coagulate into large particles by clumping together. So for any print job, the amount of UFPs, and the percentage they make up of the total, is biggest at the start, but the longer the job goes on, the more the particles grow and shift into the >300nm range, before reaching steady state at around 7 hours+.

So essentially you could in theory indirectly sense UFPs, but firstly it should only show up after some time has passed (not right at the start of the print job) and the particles have had a chance to grow into the detectable range, and also you would need to multiply the sensor’s ug/m3 value by some ratio, to get the amount of the total particle emissions, instead of just the 300nm+ emissions. So for a 7h+ print job, you would be looking at a multiplier of 7.14 times what the sensor says for the true ug/m3 reading, and for shorter print jobs it would be an even higher multiplier. Also, this is just a mass reading, but we know from the papers I linked previously that UFPs have a higher toxicity than 300nm+ particles, so you could argue that you might multiply the ug/m3 reading even further to account for this skewed particle distribution if you wanted to compare the reading to some standard “safe” thresholds for air quality.

Now so far in this post I’ve been considering how effective a sensor would be if you were either placing it inside the printer, or if you put it outside the printer but you assume that the printer is not fully airtight and it can leak UFPs/particles. That last statement I’m still uncertain about because I couldn’t find any hard evidence, but I’ve seen some reports before of the enclosure on the P1S/X1C having some gaps between the panels and not being fully airtight.

In addition, there is the rather obvious large hole at the back of the printer where the chamber fan and activated carbon filter is. Since this filter is only good for getting rid of VOCs, you would assume that it would allow UFPs and other particles to pass through without issue, because the particles on the inside are not guaranteed to go through the bento box instead of just escaping through the carbon filter?

But if you ignore that issue or somehow find a way to make sure there is no exit path for the UFPs without going through a HEPA filter first, then yes I agree with what you said about how you could safely assume that any readings on the air quality meter are purely going to be about the less dangerous 0.3um size particles or bigger, since the UFPs will already have been removed by the HEPA filter before the air gets to the AQ monitor on the outside.

Personally though, I am a little concerned that just using the bento box and the stock P1S/X1C enclosure would not be enough to guarantee UFPs won’t escape filtration.

In which case, you would have to fall back on the low accuracy method of just multiplying the ug/m3 meter reading in order to account for those leaking UFPs, and hope that the resulting true particulate emissions after multiplication are low enough to be acceptable. But if they are not at an acceptable level, you could use an air purifier on the outside of the printer either as a replacement for the bento box, or in addition to the bento box and put the purifier on a low setting to mop up whatever escaped the bento box.

But on the other hand, I could just be being far too cautious about the safety side of things, and in reality as some people have mentioned, bento box + stock enclosure may be good enough to have the printer in the same room as you for long periods without any noticeable health effects.

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That’s a really interesting idea - would you say that it’s not worth getting the P1S and I should just get the P1P instead in that case, since you would effectively be adding an enclosure around the entire printer anyway?

Also, presumably you would need to set the printer up next to a window, and get some kind of draught blocker that fits in the opened window to allow the tube to vent outside but not air to come in through the open window (especially for the winter months)?
Although, I think I’ve only seen those used for windows that open straight up and down (so you simply fill the hole at the bottom with a plate when it’s opened a bit) when used with portable air conditioners that have a hot air exhaust tube, so I’m not sure if it would work with other windows if you don’t want a draught in the winter?

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Battery manufacturers themselves use ABS for the Lead Acid battery type, just look at their datasheet.

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The enclosure on the P1 is mainly to keep the tempereature constant, not really for fumes. As such it does a more capable job of that than a larger grow-tent with its correspondingly harder to heat larger volume.

The funny thing about window inserts, is that they are just plastic shapes, and you own a 3d printer.

ABS et ASA se cassent assez facilement. Le PETG est plus resistant. L’idéal, pour moi, en matière de solidité aux chocs et aux intempéries est le Nylon. Mais assez difficile à imprimer.

Perhaps further reducing the need for a sensor: when I was first thinking about the problem, I overlooked that I need to wait for the print to cool down before it is removed, either by self-release or otherwise. How long do we typically have to wait for that to happen? 15 minutes? 30 minutes? If you go whole-hog on venting during that dead time, then I’m pretty sure the threat will have been eliminated by the time you enter the room pick up your print.

For instance, with my current PETG settings, I have the X1C auxilary fan running 100% during the print. So, throughout the print, the printer encasement is dumping contents into the room. However, simultaneous with that, I have the bathroom vent running, so that keeps a low equilibrium point in the room. Afterward, after the print ends, I presume the production of new pollution ends pretty quickly after that. Thus, after the active printing completes, an already low room pollution equilibrium point gets dropped to very close to zero by just the regular bathroom exhaust fan, or so I would guess.

I’m inclined to think that a sensor would still be very nice to have, if only to be sure and not make false assumptions, but for a scenario such as the one I describe here, it may be that one can count on all the dilution air to do the job regardless. I run a Panasonic exhaust fan, because those were the quietest available at the time of installation, and IIRC the smallest one they made was 80cfm.

Compare that to the situation where someone is printing in a room with little to no ventilation, and then the pollution levels just keep accumulating, going higher and higher throughout the print, which might go on for hours or maybe even days. And if it’s a room that the person is sleeping in while all this is happening, then that person risks a pretty high exposure from both the higher concentration and the long dwell time. It’s a night and day difference.

The particulate you’re exposed to from diesel exhaust on a highway, not to mention the tire rubber micro particles, are much the same risk as VOCs and particulate from 3D printing. Live in a metropolitan area? Probably the same deal. The carpeting in your house is a major source of VOCs, which is why you periodically have to clean the insides of your windows to remove a haze…

If you’re spending a lot of time in the same enclosed space with a running printer, these things are worth being concerned about. If you’re only spending a low percentage of your time in that space, it’s just not that big a deal. The exposure is so short, the exposure is so low, it doesn’t “move the needle”. It’s in the noise compared to your exposure to other environmental pollutants.

That being said, environmental air quality sensors are cheap and plentiful. VOCs and particle counts are measured by most. Using this search term on Google will provide many examples: “air quality sensor particle count”.

IKEA sells one for $50 that does particle counts.

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All that is probably true, but where we are perhaps running into a bit of a problem with the “just buy one of the many air quality sensor sensors on the market” recommendation is the potential mismatch between what those cheap and easy sensors can measure and the type of pollution your filament might be emitting. The ultrafine particles most likely don’t even register. Different VOC sensors vary in both sensitivity and in what they react to. You might hope that a TVOC sensor would at least flag anything and everything, but those too are sensitive to some things and not others. Most likely your only hope of finding out is if you can find the datasheet for the particular sensor being used. I think it would maybe be worse if one got a false sense of security from thinking a sensor had declared it safe, but it was only safe from the narrow range of things that the sensor you happen to own was designed to detect.

I’d still like to find a sensor that’s right, but it may not be easy for the general case. I do find that comparing notes here on that quest certainly seems helpful, and the more the merrier…

Many PM2.5 sensors will actually measure down to 300nm which is in the range of the particulates generated by 3D printers.

If what you want is an instrument accurate enough to compute your exposure to a lab level of accuracy, you’re going to need a very expensive piece of equipment. But if you just want to know “is the printer room really bad at the moment?”, a low cost particle counting environment sensor should do fine. Baseline the space a day or two after the last time the printer was run. Run the printer hard for an hour and check the readings. You’ll have “best” and “worst” case numbers you can use to make relative judgements.

But ultimately, just don’t spend a lot of time in the room when the printer is running if the room isn’t well ventilated. My printer room has 4x 4" boxer fans on a board that’s as wide as the window, permanently installed and always exhausting. I don’t worry that much about it.

Here’s some good data.

Ultrafine particle emissions from desktop 3D printers

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1352231013005086

Abstract

The development of low-cost desktop versions of three-dimensional (3D) printers has made these devices widely accessible for rapid prototyping and small-scale manufacturing in home and office settings. Many desktop 3D printers rely on heated thermoplastic extrusion and deposition, which is a process that has been shown to have significant aerosol emissions in industrial environments. However, we are not aware of any data on particle emissions from commercially available desktop 3D printers. Therefore, we report on measurements of size-resolved and total ultrafine particle (UFP) concentrations resulting from the operation of two types of commercially available desktop 3D printers inside a commercial office space. We also estimate size-resolved (11.5 nm–116 nm) and total UFP (<100 nm) emission rates and compare them to emission rates from other desktop devices and indoor activities known to emit fine and ultrafine particles. Estimates of emission rates of total UFPs were large, ranging from ∼2.0 × 1010 # min−1 for a 3D printer utilizing a polylactic acid (PLA) feedstock to ∼1.9 × 1011 # min−1 for the same type of 3D printer utilizing a higher temperature acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS) thermoplastic feedstock. Because most of these devices are currently sold as standalone devices without any exhaust ventilation or filtration accessories, results herein suggest caution should be used when operating in inadequately ventilated or unfiltered indoor environments. Additionally, these results suggest that more controlled experiments should be conducted to more fundamentally evaluate particle emissions from a wider arrange of desktop 3D printers.

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Honestly if anyone is that worried about it, forget about sensors and stuff and just wear a dual carbon filter/n95 mask while near your printer while it’s operating.

I think I’m largely on the same page as you are. We both believe in the ventilation route, and we both believe in the virtue of remote printing. The X1C is great for remote printing, because it’s easy to launch a print remotely and monitor it with the built in camera.

I propose the following test, which only needs to be run once, and the results should hold for any filament and for any length print duration. It should work whether you are taking the approach of venting the room, or instead venting just from within a printing enclosure. And AFAIK it should work with a regular particle sensor, nothing fancy.

Basically, fill the room (or the enclosure, if it’s a vented enclosure) with as much smoke as you can. It could be real smoke or it could be fake glyercin smoke like you find at night clubs or from inexpensive Halloween smoke machines. Then turn on your venting and start yor stopwatch. See how long it takes for your particle detector to return to baseline. Note the time on your stopwatch. Surely by then, for all practical purposes, every bit of anything bad–whether it be UPC or VOC–will have been pumped out, with essentially none remaining.

If the time you measured is less than the cool down time for printed parts, then, congratulations, all is good. If it’s longer, then you can either live with waiting the extra amount of time on each print, or else you can figure from this one time measurement and your existing CFMs how many CFMs you would need to add to your ventilation to get it faster than the parts cooldown.

And then you’re done. It won’t matter what you print with in the future. You’ll be covered. You’ll never have to think about this again.

As it turns out, the reason my printer room has fans in the window is because this is also where I smoke cigars. :slight_smile:

I put a louvered vent in the door, which I keep closed, so this room is always at negative pressure relative to the rest of the house (unless there’s a real strong wind from the south).

It takes about 15 minutes before my wife won’t complain about the smell if she comes in to the room. I’ve got an “Atmotube” around here somewhere, a kickstarter air quality monitor thing from a few years ago. I find it, I’ll fire it up and collect some data.

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