Newbie here - Got my first 3d printer - a P2S - for Christmas 2025, started using it in January. So, definitely a newbie question. Slicing with Bambu Studio.
I’m printing an egg carton design by Mechtech09 on Thingaverse.
Here is an image of it in Bambu Studio. Oriented flat side down because of the hinges.
I figure the edges need support since the curve represents an overhang until it starts building up the sides, but I had support enabled. Threshold angle was 30 deg.
I’ll appreciate any help on how to print this.
To me the model itself looks rough around that bottom edge even in the Studio screenshot. What does it look like once sliced? (On screen, I mean.) I’m guessing those low-resolution curves look rough to begin with, before any printing…?
Can you share a link to the design, and/or post your Studio project file here?
If the author posted the model in another format (like STEP) or at a higher resolution, that could help.
As-is, I’m not sure, but you might be able to play with the Quality → Precision → Resolution setting to smooth that out a bit (maybe by lowering the precision). Or maybe using Arachne wall generator and playing with the refinements available there (like increasing the minimum feature size perhaps). Looks like it’s pretty thin at that curve, so changing the walls might have some effect. Other general settings like line width or layer height may also play a factor. The slicer preview is very much “what you see is what you get”, so if it looks all jaggy and uneven in the preview, it’ll be that way in the print (pretty much).
Or I could be wrong of course But that bottom curve on the model looks pretty rough and the modern printers are quite accurate, and I’d actually expect “details” of that size to translate to the print (if they were intentional, I mean). The rest of the print looks pretty good, from what I can tell!
Max is right, the model is crooked. There are a lot of facets there and everywhere. It must have been an issue when converted to stl from whatever CAD software the designer has used. Is there a step file from that designer available or ask him to correct his model
I checked the model and decrease the layer height in BS to 0.08mm to look at possible defects. This model has defects and artifacts from conversion everywhere! Do not print it, it’s a waste of time
MaxThreeD: When I wrote this, I was thinking the rough area was for lack of support when printing that overhang area, but, upon looking, as you said, after slicing, that area was supported. In fact, the problem probably is associated with the support since it is the same area that the support contacts the model.
Wind: I’m sorry, but I’m not at the level yet where I even know how to check an .stl file to see if it’s smooth. If you explain that, it’ll be a useful learning experience for me.
Philch: At first read, I think I misinterpreted your comment on .08 mm layer height. I thought, yeah, less layer height - less overhang. So I printed at .08 layer height but, the result was the same or worse. On rereading your input, it appears you were doing that as part of your analysis to draw the conclusion the model is full of errors and not really worth printing.
All: This model uses a lot of material, and apparently is flawed for technical reasons I don’t yet understand. The model itself is not that important to me - so I’m not going to pursue chasing down the particular reason this prints the curve rough. So, I’ll just sand the rough spots down a little, and that will be good enough. As MaxThreeD said - the rest is pretty good.
Again, mahalo and Aloha
PS - This egg carton was at the request of a friend who wanted it to take hard boiled eggs on his boat when he went fishing - so it’s ok to be a little rough.
I think others have chased down the model being kinda junk quality but this concept is really important:
Your printer is always gonna struggle to produce the underside of things unless that underside is welded to the plate. This rounded bit that comes to a nearly-flat angle is really hard for printers to do. You want to start the bottom’s angle at 45 degrees, then continue to round it.
A tip, if the model allows for it, is to use the move/reposition tool and just sink it into the plate. The slicer software will automatically cut off anything below the line, so it slices off all the part with the hard to produce angle
But that bottom curve on the model looks pretty rough and the modern printers are quite accurate, and I’d actually expect “details” of that size to translate to the print (if they were intentional, I mean). The rest of the print looks pretty good, from what I can tell!
