I received a brand-new Bambu Lab X2D, but it was unable to complete the initial calibration.
During the first calibration attempts, I received several errors:
0300-4000 – Z-axis homing failed
0300-4016 – nozzle cleaning failed
07FE-8020 – extruder/nozzle switching failed
The toolhead pressed the nozzle into the build plate and scratched the PEI surface. The flow blocker/nozzle switching mechanism also stopped between the two nozzles, and the toolhead remained pressed against the plate.
I did not disassemble the printer or manually force any part of the mechanism. I switched it off and contacted the retailer because I do not want to cause further damage or affect the warranty.
Has anyone experienced a similar failure with a brand-new X2D?
I am also concerned after reading several reports from X2D owners who say that the surface quality, especially on vertical and curved walls, can be worse than on an A1 or A1 Mini.
For those who have a properly functioning X2D:
Is the external wall quality consistently at least as good as an A1?
Are visible layer inconsistencies or VFA common on this model?
Were these problems solved through calibration or firmware, or are they mechanical?
I bought the X2D mainly because I expected better precision and surface quality than my A1, not only because of the dual-nozzle system. After this initial failure and the print-quality reports, I am now considering requesting a full refund instead of a replacement.
Are you 100% sure that you did all of the proper unpackaging before starting the calibration? (Such as like removing the Z-axis screws [ I’m figuring you did that because your pictures but you get what I mean])
Edit: I mean the Z-Axis screws that come holding the plate in place, but you probably knew that because it looks like you did that part.
Yes, I removed all three transport screws and both plastic shipping brackets. I also removed all protective tape and packing material around the printer, including the foam block securing the toolhead, and I cut and removed all transport zip ties before powering it on.
Here is a short video showing what happened during the initial calibration:
ou can hear the abnormal mechanical noise and see the printer failing during the calibration sequence. I stopped using it immediately and did not disassemble or force any mechanical part.
From the totality of the circumstances of your post I suspect you will be disappointed in the X2D.
Smart. Although I’m sympathetic with people who buy H-class machines where the prospect of boxing and sending it back warrants some consideration vs trying to fix it, the X-class doesn’t. It should have worked out of the box, just swap or return it.
My X2D produces the best walls I have seen so far from any printer. Far better than the X1C I had before. VFAs are completely gone. And the consistency of layers is somehow much more consistent. I never had any complaints with the X1C, but on the first taller prints, my first impression was like " wow, that is a really smooth surface". I haven’t seen prints from an A1, only two different X1C, Prusa mini, Ultimaker 2+ and 5.
Something is off with your toolhead, I think the nozzle switch mechanism is borked.
Reach out support and ask for a replacement device. I’d advise against their initial attempt to send you replacement parts. Ship it back and ask for a working printer.
Wall quality is much better than A1. It’s identical to my H2D.
VFA will be present on every single Core XY printer. On every printer. The question is how visible they are? They are much better than P1/X1 printer. If you look for them, you can find them.
Overall I would add that X2D is my favorite printer. I like it much more than H2D. The worst from the current lineup would be H2S probably.
s the external wall quality consistently at least as good as an A1? Yes, and you can get better if you slow things down a little.
Are visible layer inconsistencies or VFA common on this model? VFA is what it is, try rotating your model 3 degrees on the plate, you might be surprised. Overall vs other corexy in its class, the printer is better in most regards but MESSIER than normal, the aux nozzle being petg and bowden is just a horrorshow of crumbles and extra wisps, at least when spool fed.
Were these problems solved through calibration or firmware, or are they mechanical? I think an AMS on the other end of the aux noodle probably would help extrusion quality and fidelity, but I dont like any vendor’s ams enough to buy two per machine lol
that video you linked of the thing digging into the plate and moving around was not good lol, and clearly nothign you did wrong nor could have intervened with. If you show that to support they probably will give you a new plate and/or nozzle and it would be funny to hear the explanation
I had the same issue yesterday. I followed the setup instructions to the letter.
When the calibration screen first appeared, I unchecked all the calibration options, selected Next, and carried out the firmware update first. Once the firmware update was complete, I then started the calibration.
When the bed was about halfway up, I opened the door and removed the foam from underneath the bed, as instructed. I closed the door and continued, but to my disappointment the print head then made contact with the build plate and started scraping across it.
Being completely new to 3D printing, it took me a few seconds to realise what was actually happening before I hit the main power switch at the back to stop the machine. I then manually moved the head away from the bed.
Now I have a damaged build plate and honestly have no idea what I should do next or whether anything else has been damaged. I’ve raised a support ticket with Bambu and am waiting for their response.
Pretty disappointing experience with a brand-new machine, especially after being so careful to follow the setup instructions.
@Florin21 — how was yours resolved in the end? Did Bambu replace the build plate, and did you need to do anything to the heatbed or calibration before using the printer again?
