Supertak plates are great - BUT it’s ridiculously hard to remove rims and and base layers im finding 
. So much so that im inclined to stop using it.
Does anyone have any tips on how to remove layers more easily from the plate? Maybe some kind of spray that will loosen them up?
thanks for any help! (my finger nails are killing me! 
)
This is one of my SuperTack build plates.
This is the bottom layer of a matte support element that is too thin for a blade to get under.
I have stopped using all the SuperTack build plates I purchased, the P1S and A1 mini sized ones are all now ignored. The P1S size have small chunks removed from the, as the coating just comes right off.
Some like these plates, I think they are junk.
I don’t have a supertak plate, but I have had this happen to my PEI plate before. When that happens, I just toss it in the freezer for an hour and the filament comes right off. Could that work with the supertak also?
I tried an hour, a day and a week, it remained steadfast at each interval.
Thanks for the thought though.
I’ll give it a try thanks
I have been using SuperTack build plates almost exclusively for PLA since they were first released. They advertise to last over 300 prints without degradation, yet I have noticed that prints tend to release easier the more times the plates are used. It is subtle but noticeable.
Anyhow, Most prints can be released just by flexing the build plate until a corner lifts from which the rest of the print can be pried from the build plate. For those stubborn prints, I use the curved edge of a hobby knife with a #10 blade to carefully lift a corner to get it started.
Typically the support sticks better than the actual part. Which means that often times I can pull a print from the build plate while the support remains attached to the build plate.
Is it just me that finds it easier to remove while the plates still hot?
SuperTak with PLA Matte, PLA Silk or PETG HF han be hard to use as the prints are really hard to remove from it.
I use them only with plain PLA, and I love them.
You can try my non scraping “scraper”. It really helps and protect the print and the plate:
I find the supertack plate great for printing PLA with zero heat or only in the beginning.
The small dots from support towers are indeed very difficult to grab, and they are too small and thin to be affected by plate flex.
I use a dentist pick or box cutter tip to very gently grab them. It works but is tedious and you end up touching the plate a lot.
Suggestion to Bambulab:
If they had a second layer of thickness they would be easier to remove: more edge and stiffness. To save material it could be just an extra layer at the outer rim.
Connect them all together (sort of roads?) so that once that some of it loosen the rest can be peeled of could also help.
Nice, just joined here and was about to post simular, I purchased last week and have stopped using as broke model when trying to remove from plate, even after heating plate to 50, will read on with interest
Hmmm will try this should I ever use it again
Thats what I read, still to use plate again as broke my first print
try to reduce bed temperature
also, a layer of glue could help to release print
i am ultra late but i just do a first layer test from makerworld and the thing fuses right to the sheet and comes off easily for me give that a try if its still on
Cheers, I have tried everything.
It is a stubborn ■■■■■■■.
It is now a part of the build plate, the build plate is part of it.
Some weird symbiosis.
