Hi Bjorn,
Can you share some of your settings. Been pulling my hair out with 0.6 and 0.8mm nozzles. In fact sometimes the slicer (while using Arachne or normal) does not even slice the model accurately when using wide layer widths. Like of example you have a straight line of 20 cm long wall. But the slicer slices one 18mm and cuts off the simple wall by 1mm on each side.
What slicer do you use? Could be good to copy some of those profiles and use on the Bambu slicer.
Hello
Yes i have uploaded it on makerworld, for both 0.4 and 0.6 nozzle. I have not yet uploaded one for 0.8 nozzle. Time is something i lack, with 2 works and 4 kids =)
0.6 nozzle profile: Sunlu PETG profile for 0.6 mm Hotend by BjörnB - MakerWorld
Same here. I used the 0.6 on my A1 for 2 months now but wanted to print a complex model from makerworld and did not want to risk the predefined settings. 0.6 look just as good as the 0.4, but you have to tune it. Volumetric flow and speed changes for sure. It is faster, but not that much.
What did you calibrate for your settings for the 0.6?
Retraction length and seam gap?
Maximum volumetric flow is the limiting factor—in theory, around 30 mm³/s for the hotend (heater block). For example, most PETG materials recommend a maximum of 12 mm³/s, but this is typically based on a 0.4 mm nozzle. When using a 0.6 mm nozzle, you can safely increase the maximum flow rate by about 50%. This results in roughly a 33% reduction in print time.
Another factor to consider is that even with this 50% increase in flow, you’re printing at a lower speed, which can improve aspects like layer and bed adhesion.
Maybe try with sunlu hs-petg. I measured it at 40mm3/sec, faster than anything else I’ve ever tried on x1c.
This looks like your retraction is too high.
I would try lowering the retraction.
Am I the only one that gets time benefits, and decent prints on a .6?
If its a difficult print, the time savings arent much. It still has to slow down and cool. If we’re talking about just laying some layers down tho, it knocks off hours.
Is it just PETG that’s problematic?
Ive been using PCTG from 3D-FUEL (US made and sourced) and its fine.
This part of their site they show their profiles for all machines, and all nozzle sizes:
In the middle of some PLA prints right now, but I need to make an easy potted plant out of my PCTG. Will show the results and time savings tomorrow.
It depends on what you’re after: speed or quality? The 0.4mm prints generally seem to look the best. AFAIK, there’s no free lunch. You can get good looking prints at 0.4mm with little to no effort. Getting it with 0.6mm seemed to require more work, at least the last time I tried, which was before Orca slicer. Maybe things have improved since then?
Besides, with Sunlu HS-PETG, I can get 40mm^3/sec, so I don’t see that I need 0.6mm anymore.
Well yea, that’s not the point. This thread was made last year talking about how the bambu printers cant handle the heat requirements of .6 nozzles while also increasing speed.
If my A1 mini can do it, why cant a P1 do it? I have a P1 coming in the mail as we speak, I wanted to provide a test, showing it works, showing increased speed, and when my P1 shows up, I’m going to do it again. I need more pots anyway lol
Maybe 0.6mm nozzle print profiles have been added since the last time I checked, which, as I mentioned, was quite a while ago. At least back then they were pure copies of the 0.4mm nozzle profiles, and, hence, conferred no advantage. Maybe they’ve been updated? Presently I’m focused on my H2D, so I guess it will be up to you or somebody else to investigate current status of the P series (mine is X series, btw, in case it turns out to matter).
yea, all good. I was thinking the same thing.
I honestly didnt realize it was a necro’ed thread when i first responded. But I think it will be good to set the record straight for future users thinking that their .6 nozzle printing issues are just purposefully baked in to the software/hardware.
And look at you Mr Fancy, with your X1. 
It was the OG. There was no P, nor anything else, at the time I made my purchase. The P series debuted later in the timeline.
The H2D is the real fancy pants version though. There aren’t yet any 0.6mm nozzles available for it though, so it’s anyone’s guess on how it will perform with that.
I’m having the same issues with 0.6 on the H2D. I’m so close to giving up and going back to the 0.4 lol.
I’ve been trying to print with 0.8mm nozzles and large layer heights (0.56mm) but haven’t had good results yet.
With 0.6mm and .42mm layer heights I’m getting ok results and I do see it improve in speed over 0.4mm.
While both .6 and .8 hotends (TZ 3.0 & 4.0) can have a volumetric speed of up to 35mm/s with calibration test in practice I’m getting massive failures at those speeds for objects that end up reaching the speeds (Benchy, calicat, and smaller test prints don’t really get to reach such high speeds).
For 0.8mm using shorter layer heights improves things but all the problems are still there just more hidden.
Has anyone had good results with the 0.8mm nozzles and .56 layers?
I have a .8 and messed around with it. I never got any benefit whatsoever, so now it just sits in a box. The speed increase from a .4 to .6 is really good, but diminishing returns for .8. I forgot to post my results, but I’ve been busy.
Are you guys re-calibrating everything for the .6 nozzle?
I did. Reran all the machine calibrations.
