I have been trying to get a great first layer with the cool supertack plate….uggghhh
I am using matte pla on my p1s. I have calibrated filament and machine multiple times, levelled the bed, chosen the correct plate/nozzle, cleaned the bed and nozzle,dried the filament, altered first layer flow rate, tried different plate and nozzle temps etc. sometimes it looks somewhat ok but then I try to print a second time and it’s ■■■■ again.
My filament sticks but always looks under extruded which is not helpful when I have to print my product top down. The slightly textured matte finish is perfect so I am really getting annoyed that I can’t get it to work!
It’s driving me crazzzyyyy. I would love Bambu to reproduce the same texture in a normal plate. Looking into other options now like biqu etc
Welcome to the community. It would be helpful if you could upload some clear photos of the surface you’re unhappy with. Then members here can offer more specific recommendations.
It sounds like you’re aiming for a smoother surface and relying on the build plate to impart that finish. There are a couple of approaches: the one you’re attempting, which relies on the build plate surface, and another involving the bottom layer pattern you choose.
You might also try leaving that surface facing up and experiment with the ironing feature, which is designed to smooth the top layer. It’s far from perfect - the center looks good, but the edges remain visible. The top-down-to-surface approach you’re using is still the cleanest.
That said, the high-tack plate isn’t the best choice for this.
Here are two tips. If you’re seeking that perfect surface, a smooth build plate is very helpful. However, you can also use Kapton tape, which is easy to find on Amazon. It’s high-temperature amber tape that, when applied correctly, produces an almost mirror finish. There’s even a version large enough to cover most of the Bambu Lab build surface. It’s tricky to apply, similar to tinting a car window. Check YouTube for tutorials on applying car tint with Windex and a squeegee - that’s what I used to remove all the bubbles.
Alternatively, sometimes it’s best not to fight the slicer but to feature it. What I mean is to use a surface pattern like Hilbert Curve, Archimedean Chords, or Octagram Spiral to camouflage the surface.
Here’s an example where I experimented using multicolor silk with a smooth build plate. I’ve found that for symmetrical objects, Archimedean Chords or Octagram Spirals produce especially pleasing patterns.
My experience with SuperTack plate and matter has been appalling.
It welds the bottom surface of the support to the plate, and it is too thin for a blade to get underneath. This was my A1 mini.
I have four other plates, one for each of my P1S printers. I didn’t use matte filament with those; each of those had the surface peeling off on the first prints.
I find liquid of any kind to be helpful while prying off stuff welded to the plate. Isopropyl has a low surface tension and does well but water is fine too. Chip a piece off, let capillary forces get water under there, repeat, good luck.
