Arcadia 1:1000 model now on Makerworld.
Printed ok - although did get two pauses due to build ups in the waste shoot.
Also tried printing one small part - the lift shaft without the prime tower - but it came out quite weak at the colour joint - so will probably stick to using prime towers.
this is one of the craziest amazing print I have seen
Britannia Day8 - Added lots of modelled supports , and started single colour test print (5hrs!)
Multi colour test print ready to go too - but won’t be able to run it until Mid next week.
Print looking good so far - about 50% complete.
Give this little test a try if you don’t mind:
Create a simple multi colour patch of model.
Manually load a filament colour, let it prime and all, then switch to a different one.
Observe the poop.
You will see the colour change in the flushes.
Also the amount if filament used.
Print the model without prime tower and without flushing into infill or such.
Check the poop and if there is a lot of the next colour reduce the flushing amount for it until it is just clean enough to be of no concern.
Repeat with all colours in use.
Now print the model again and compare the poop amount to the previous Bambu defaults.
Yes, going from like black to transparent of white takes more flushing than the other way around.
But what matters is that what comes out on the print is of the same colour as printed just in this colour alone.
The highest flushing volume you worked out like this is the safest default to start with for new filament rolls.
Should still be lower than those defaults…
With these volumes and keeping the colour changes in mind you create matching profiles for your model needs.
Like tuning white to still come white if there was a switch to black just before.
It will flush too much when switching from a pale yellow but that can be ignored.
You will find that once honed in you will get a significant reduction in filament loss for such big prints.
It is too bad there is not way to make this change happen in just the inner parts of the infill, with an adjustable gap to the outer walls.
If this area is large enough we would not have to waste any filament at all when printing with more than one colour…
Thanks for the suggestions. I don’t think the prime tower is really there for flushing - it is more related to getting a good flow - and when I did my little test without it when going from black to white and back again the colours were ok, But the adhesion wasn’t - and so the part snapped in half. Not a big problem for my print as the two parts can just be slid in.
Personally I like the way that the Bambulab separate out flushing from priming - as when for example I used a Prusa MMU2 - which had the one tower for both, sometimes I found that the tower got quite messy and the prints failed just due to gaps or bulges in the top layer of the tower.
I also agree that you can save a a fair bit of flush waste if you carefully tune the individual swaps - I have done a fair bit of work on this - including writing some macro’s to try and capture the resulting values from the slicer - so that they can be re-applied when project settings or filaments change. But in the end I found the effort required when doing 8-10 colour prints of keeping track of the nearly 100 different combinations of flush lengths too much effort for me. So I have just settled on setting colours as accurately as possible in the slicer, using auto calculate, pushing the multiplier down a bit - to 0.5 to 0.6.
Also I have done quite a bit of work on ‘flush-into’ object selection, flush into infill, and reusing flush and other waste for things like flat sheets - see this thread for more info.
https://forum.bambulab.com/t/making-better-use-of-flush-into-object-in-bambu-studio/29422/72
I see…
And so nice to see that I am not the only one wondering about the layer adhesion when printing in multiple colours…
I already noticed this when printing supports from a different roll.
Depending on the model and chamber temps the new layer just won’t bond properly.
On my old dual head printer I had the option to increase the nozzle temp for the colour change but I rarely had to make us of it because with two individual extruders and heads the model never had much time to cool.
Sure, there was sometimes oozing causing issues despite using a tower to get the nozzle clean and up to temp…
But on my P1S I find these things far more cumbersome than what they should be.
I mean this in terms of the produced waste and time added to prints.
Wouldn’t it be great to at least have like an ironing round before the next filament is put down?
Like the nozzle running over the perimeters once or twice to re-heat this layer…
Would also help to soften this often slightly curling up corners and overhand areas…
Arcadia 1:500 model - patched with new colouring and correction to deck9 (the black part above lift)
Who needs Lego if you have 3D printer and good designer…
Lots of printing to do this week. Shame I haven’t got enough AMSs to do 2 parallel 9 colour prints.
Britannia 1:1000 first draft colour print - 9 colour, 18hours
Arcadia 1:500 - 3 part, 9 colour - final pre Makerworld print - largest plate 23hrs
Other plates - about 9 additional hours
Update 29/5 - about 13 hrs through Arcadia 1:500 print - no mishaps - apart from the printer disconnecting for the network - so having to monitor with Wyze camera. Pausing for night.
P&O Cruise Ship Aurora - the last ship in the fleet to complete.
Day1 - Basic Mapping out
Day2/3 - Most of hull
Day4 - almost there (after some fairly long days)
I have been asked whether it would be possible to print Iona at 1:200 scale - thought I would answer it here - so that it is easier to reference again in the future.
I have printed Arvia at 1:250 scale - which involved splitting each deck into 6 parts - so a total of around 90 separate prints. The build log for this is here.
https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34977-arvia-by-dave-wood-finished-1250-po-cruise-ship/
In order to print Iona at 1:200 it would need to be split into at least 8 separate parts.
The easiest way to do this would be to take the 2 part spit 1:1000 Iona model that is contained with the ‘experimental arvia and Iona’ upload here
https://makerworld.com/en/models/15006#profileId-14776
And then further split each Iona half into 4 separate parts - to give a total of 8 parts, then scale the model up to 1:200 scale.
There are however three problems with this.
So either manual slicer supports would need to be applied, or a few small cylinders added to the model to support any parts affect by the splits.
https://forum.bambulab.com/t/loosing-colors-when-splitting-to-parts-or-objects/55213
In theory a lot of this could be done by changing a few parameters in the F360 model, however in practice, once models get complicated you break quite a lot if you try going too far back in the timeline - so it would probably be best achieved by going through the model and cutting lots of material out - in areas such as balcony partitions and windows etc, plus also redoing things like the text to make it a more realistic size.
As I don’t really have a need at the moment myself for anymore models greater than 1:400 scale - then I can’t really justify the time to make these changes unfortunately.
As referred to in the Arvia 1:250 build log above I did do a fair bit of this sort of stuff for that particular model, but I decided not to release it due to the need for clean prints of every part to be done for Makerworld, plus the likely very small audience for such as large and expensive to print model.
So if anybody does want to try printing Iona at a bigger scale I would suggest starting with the 1:1000 model mentioned above, cut it into more parts with either an old version of BS, or maybe Orca Slicer or some other software like blender, then add some extra supports in around the cuts.
Also note that due to commercial restrictions I have only released the models under a license that does not allow any remixes - so please do not publish any split up, rescaled or edited versions of the models.
Arcadia 1:500 Makerworld print almost complete - however found slight fault with bow section, so are just reprinting the part up to the fault as cannot justify another 23 hr print, or even the 9 hour print to do the whole of the front section again.
It is only a slight fault that can be filed off - but had better print to updated part again just to be sure it looks ok.
Partial reprint came out much better
P&O Cruise Fleet Fusion 360 modelling now complete. Just need to make Aurora printable - so plenty of printing to do over the next month or so.
Added in Non P&O Cruises Ships - Cunard Queen Victoria and Tui Skyla
1:500 version of Arcadia now on Makerworld
17 hour print of 1:1000 test version of Britannia progressing nicely -
Won’t be releasing Britannia until July, plus probably only at the 1:1000 size - unless the 1:500 version of Arcadia proves popular.
Update 1/6 - After one lunchtime pause yesterday and overnight pause last night, Britannia print progressing well - only 4 hours to go -
Draft 1:1000 Britannia finished and good enough to take along to the real ship for comparison purposes in a few weeks.
Some tweaks required, but overall pretty happy. Printed well apart from some more waste shoot build ups and loss of network connection quite a few times. Print was in 4 separate sessions with pauses in between.
After cleanup
Pretty much flawless first single colour test print of last P&O Cruise ship Aurora. It’s a simpler older ship without too many overhangs which helps - but still pretty pleased with it. Just a tiny bit of work to do on Deck8 at the back and a tiny number of issues under the lifeboats.
Made a few tweaks - and now kicking off 10 colour version - about 13hrs. Should really do some flush objects as flush ratio of 100% - but will melt the waste into flat sheets instead. Not perfect - could do with more detail like rear sports courts.
Once Aurora print completes - Possible next print - 0.07% or 1:1450 scale plate - with whole fleet on it.
2 days with 0.4mm nozzle - some details a little bit small so would probably need to make a few tweaks (like Ventura/Azura green decks thickness which seems to be lost).
or shall I go for 0.2mm Nozzle - (took ages to slice, and wouldn’t work when I scaled down to 1:2000) would take about 7 days for 1:1450!
Aurora print complete. Only issues apart from continuing waste build up are slight lifting at the front and back, plus a little bit of colour bleed between yellow and white right near the top.
Have changed flush multiplier up from 0.6 to 1.0 and also added a Brim.
Test brim of just bottom part with brim
Other pictures - showing where small amount of supports need to be cut away from under the bridge
