Has anyone tried using Darkmoon plates on their H2C?
I just got the Duo, which is Satin on one side and the CFX on the other. According to the information on the Darkmoon website, you have to use the “Smooth/High Temp” plate setting. However, since Bambu doesn’t have that anymore, I tried “Engineering”.
With that the print started but then I got an error that the printer could not see the bed side markers. It seems that the Darkmoon plate is slightly too big because no matter how much I played with it, I could not get it to sit right. Finally, I gave up and manually continued the print.
Then another error: it printer stopped because it could not find some manufacturer marker. I don’t know what that is but at this point I just gave up and went back to the stock textured one.
Its looking for the QR codes, You may be able to download them and print them off on stickers. I’ve seen some aftermarket plates for the H2S coming with stickers to get around this. Look under print options and you can turn off the build plate detection.
But the plate has QR codes (those are the QR code looking squares on the front left wing of the plate, right?). Why would it recognize them?
BL is very picky and doesn’t like non OEM codes from what I’ve read. That and you said your build plate was oversized, so they are likely out of expected position triggering it to reject them. Disabling the build plate check is recommended on DarkMoons product page.
“ NOTE: The Bambu Lab printers are terrible at scanning build plates not made by Bambu Lab. It’s possible you may need to disable “features” like Build Plate Detection and the Build Plate Alignment Detection.”
The QR code on those plates are for the smooth/high temp plate. The H2C has never had that plate so it always fails the build plate detection. The option needs to be disabled. Bambu also recently disabled the smooth/high temp plate from the slicer for the H2C so Darkmoon recommends just using the engineering plate.
I use the Darkmoon Satin on my X1C with the Textured PEI plate profile, and it works great.
You may need to print a QR code to stick on the plate where the machine reads it, or disable build plate checks.
Can you share a picture of the fit issue please? I was thinking of ordering one for my H2C, want to understand how much of a problem this is.
I just got a Darkmoon CFX plate for doing PA6. It was a complete fail on the first PA6-GF part I tried to print. A discord user told me that nobody had good luck getting the Bambu PA6-GF to stick to the Darkmoon Carbon fiber plate.
I have since done two prints on the plate in PETG and ABS, paying special attention to Darkmoon’s heat suggestions, and both have worked very well…
I’m not thrilled that it didn’t work the PA6 I had, because that is the filament they said it was specifically made for…
I have a Duo in my H2C. Build plate detection has to be disabled, this is a known issue (not just for DM). So it doesn’t really matter which plate type is selected in the slicer, as long as it’s not Textured PEI (which has Z-offset exceptions in the g-code generator).
Personally I used the “cool plate” and “hot plate” settings in the filament profiles, just to keep them separate from the other BL plates I use (“cool plate” was still available in the per-plate settings just not for the main plate selector up top). There’s a workaround for bringing them back: New version of bambu studio - smooth PEI plate no longer showing for H2C - #8 by MaxThreeD
I did get the alignment error twice on the CFX side (out of a couple dozen prints so far). Resumed and no issues. Not sure but maybe the CF throws off the camera sometimes… mine is definitely the correct size and fits well.
I haven’t really used it enough yet to comment on the utility. So far so good, with some experimenting (eg. foaming PEBA). Sure is gorgeous though, I’ll hang it on my wall if it doesn’t work out in the long run… 
-Max
Thanks for the info.
So, as long as I select anything besides the textured plate, there shouldn’t be an issue with the z offset?
I was using the Satin side when this happened. I have to admit that I sometimes have a hard time lining up even the stock plate. I just could not get the DM one setup up correctly.
Right. Assuming you’re changing the temperatures in the filament profiles anyway, doesn’t matter which of the others is used. If you just want to use the default temperature settings of a particular plate then of course you’d select that plate. I haven’t compared the Engineering plate default temperatures to the DM recommendations… didn’t want to change those anyway (since I use an actual Eng. plate also).
If yours consistently can’t get an alignment, it could indeed be some manufacturing issue with the plate. Is it same for CFX side? Maybe check dimensions and for squareness… and the alignment tabs (aren’t bent or something). Maybe some debris in the bed alignment slots? I just checked their Discord for any similar issues… and only found your post . Maybe try again with a new thread specifically for the alignment/size issue?
-Max