From Bunnings, I live in Sydney.
I think you can buy it from hardware store, probably same place where you buy roof tiles or builder supplies.
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okay thanks, do you know how i whould get a went hose from the enclosure outside if i have european windows
This post probably DIY Fume extraction for P1S questions and probably pics when finished - #11 by Olias
okay, thanks for your help
I gave my son a P1S and itâs been printing PLA non-stop on the dining room table with all the dinosaurs, fidget toys, mechs since Christmas day.
One thing I noticed after the 3rd day, when I got near the printer, I started to get headaches. Iâm thinking Iâm not reacting well with the PLA (already the least toxic material) and I went down the rabbit hole and found this thread!
I already have something in mind to print in ABS and have decided to relocat my sonâs printer to secluded area in the house near a window.
For those in Canada interested in this setup, I bought a cheap $40 Ikea table, enclosure, fan/hose and casement window adapter.
- https://www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/sandsberg-table-black-s29420393
- https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0CQLWSGKJ
- https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0DQ54P8Z1
- https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0CT7S8BJ8
Where the fan attaches to the enclosure, would this fan be enough to move air through to the window about 2 ft of hose? Do I need another fan near the window exhaust?
I'm glad I found this thread, thank you all for your research!I just put an air purifier in the same room as the printer, and it takes care of the issues, but I only print PLA and PETG.
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Happy New
I do not remember I had increased headache when printing PLA with my Ender 3 S1 Pro. After P1S, I too have excessive headaches towards the end of the day. It may be related to anything; Enclosed system increasing the fume, Hyper speed filaments have different chemical, different house, constant 75+ dB noise⊠Thus some kind of extraction is a good idea.
I checked the products you posted. I have a few comments.
IKEA Table
It is not a good idea to use as a Printer stand. These types of kitchen tables are not sturdy and the screws that fix the legs to table loosen quickly. P1S vibrations will cause them to loose faster. Also printer vibrate more (poor prints?) and noise might increase as well. A heavy and sturdier stand would be better.
While checking IKEA I saw this. This might be a good starting point for a DIY enclosure by adding Polycarbonate, Acrylic or wooden panels to it. ( I am from Turkey and our local store have this but i could not find it in IKEA-Canada).
The Creality Enclosure tents
They are now legacy. Lucky you find one. I can not order from abroad, if I could, i would order one for myself. They are very well built and have good insulation but i doubt it would be enough to keep the temp for open printers in Canadian winters. 
But it might be an overkill for P1S or X1. For PLA, BL recommends to keep door and top cover open. As it is winter here, keeping it close does not have negative effect. With any type of exhaust system; for PLA, you can do better without the tent . For ABS it may help with heat retention.
ONE WARNING! I am new to BL and P1S as well. Others may know better. These tents keep the whole printer in, including; electronics, mainboard and power supply. Many Creality owners reported various levels of damage to those parts due to excessive heat.
Creality Fan and duct system.
Not the best option but as far as creality usersâ feedbacks; it gets the job done for home users. If you plan to print massive amounts of ABS or ASA, an in duct exhaust fan recommended by Wsquared58 earlier in this thread would be a better choice.
Idk this products. I just selected one from top of the list as an example of in duct fan. A variable speed one or with a speed controller box is better.
We do not have those hoses here but anything with large diameter will work.
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I know many prefer them as they offer easy and instant installation and low starting cost. It is said to be sufficient (the sensors on them are not reliable) for occasional PLA print. It has an added benefit of taking it anywhere, bedroom living room etc after you finish your printing.
But it will not be enough even for PLA if you print whole day long. It is also cost much more on the longer run. Usually original replacement filters for any brand cost almost the price of the device. It is recommended to change every 6 months for normal home use. For industrial needs aka 3d printing, you might need to change more frequently
with Ender you could get head aches- not related to the filament fumes and more to printer 
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Thank you for the comments/links, Iâll certainly take a look.
I will for sure add a small filter to help with some of the particulates.
As you mentioned, with starting costs I tried to keep low and slowly build towards upgrades. I think most people go down this route and find out that maybe spending a bit more for quality components will be better for the long run, since if the current set up works, why fix it?
I appreciate the communityâs research and comments!
I did a good bit of testing with sensors to see what was being generated inside the print chamber and the air inside the chamber is pretty toxic but it is also a small volume so there is a small volume of toxic gas.
It is quite easy to monitor your printers generation of VOCâs but all said and done it would probably be a shade under $100 in the required hardware. The second image is a sample of a PLA run then an ABS run.
The first picture is the impact of different levels of VOCâs
Below are some viable sensors. Pardon the BOLD font. A copy/paste thing I was unable to correct.
Air purifiers you need to read the specs as HEPA is High Efficiency Particulate Air filter. VOCâs will blow right through as VOC is a gas. It requires some sort of scrubbing media.
SGP40 Air Quality Sensor Breakout - VOC Index - STEMMA QT / Qwiic
SGP30 Air Quality Sensor Breakout - VOC and eCO2 - STEMMA QT / Qwiic
ENS160 MOX Gas Sensor - Sciosense CCS811 Upgrade - STEMMA QT / Qwiic
Adafruit PMSA003I Air Quality Breakout - STEMMA QT / Qwiic
I just recently âdiscoveredâ this topic, and this response attracted my attention. I have a P1S just one year now, and I have placed this in a cabinet in which I installed a smal extractor fan with ducting to the outside (of the house). The suction side is close to the outlet of the Bambu P1S, but not connected to the rear wall, so it does not really suck from the machineâs casing. I have been printing a fair amount of ABS+ and did not want to cause some drafts through the casing and over the printed surface, which is important when printing ABS. I do not smell anything with this setup.
However, I needed some more room inside and bought another cabinet, which is to be relocated to a different place, where I do not have access to a duct to the outside.
Questions: the IKEA air-cleaners which have been recommended here too, are these going to work for me, if I place these inside the cabinet, and recirculate the air inside? Or should I connect the outlet of these filters to the roomside air, thus creating a small vacuum inside the cabinet? This should be enough, considering the statement I react upon?
And will this type which includes a gasfilter to remove smells be good enough Luchtreiniger, FĂRNUFTIG, wit, 31x45 cm - IKEA which has been referenced to elsewhere suffice? Or the more basic one: UPPĂ
TVIND Luchtreiniger - IKEA be good enough for particles only? Or is either type a waste of effort and money?
Some of this, I canât really answer. Especially things related to Ikea.
That said, let me make a few points regarding printing and what goes on in the chamber when printing.
I stuck all those sensors in the chamber of my P1S because I wanted to confirm what initially was my opinion that these 3d printers, not just Bambu Labs were probably generating some toxicâs of various types. I wanted to confirm that my opinion was an accurate fact.
To convert opinion to fact requires data. I had long experience with many of the sensors because I built a couple of homemade weather stations a few years back.
-
Burning plastic is toxic. I donât think anyone will argue that pointâŠ
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Printers arenât burning plastic but they get very close and everyone has, or will have, a failure that will have the hotend encased in a big gob of plastic. I certainly have. When I cleaned off my hotend/nozzle there was BURNT charred plastic at the center of that mess.
After mounting and moving sensors around inside the P1S chamber and tracking that data via a web based data tracking app run by Adafruit I validated my opinion as fact.
- 3D Printers, during NORMAL operation generate particulate.
- 3D Printers, during NORMAL operation generate VOCâs
VOCâs is an acronym for Volatile Organic Compounds. There are probably hundreds of different VOCâs in all sorts of different mixtures. To go to a point in the message that preceeds this one, DO NOT equate VOCâs with odor. Some smell, some donât.
Particulate caught me by surprise. I had a couple of different particulate sensors on hand so connected them to my sensor chain but was not really expecting much to show up. The surprise was that not only was particulate being generated, but a fair amount of various sizes. I have no idea how much of that particulate migrates out of the chamber in a P1S or X1C. P1P, having no enclosure is dumping its particulate into the room. My theory of particulate is that it is generated as it exits the nozzle tip. I canât remember if it is ABS or PETG or both, but if the poor print quality is, in fact, due to flashing of moisture at the nozzle tip, that is definitely going to generate particulate.
In regards to particulate, that can probably be dealt with with some sort of HEPA Filtration system. Like VOCâs, HEPA is an acronym for High Efficiency Particulate Air Filter. HEPA filters do not solve the VOC problem.
VOCâs are down at the molecule size so will slip right through HEPA media.
VOCâs require some sort of scrubbing media. I have no idea if the air purifier you can buy at Best Buy has air purifiers with scrubbers.
As far as some sort of fan to just exhaust outdoors, donât confuse the vacuum of your vacuum cleaner with the amount of vacuum required to move dirty air outside. You do not need that level of vacuum, you need just enough vacuum that room air seeps into the chamber and not chamber air seeping into the room.
Iâm not running my printer 24/7 nor do I have a printer farm so I am not overly concerned about an intermittent puff of VOCâs or particulate into my living room from the adjoining dining nook where my printer lives.
The biggy for people who print sporadically is to not open the door during printing and inadvertently inhaling a lungful of VOCâs and particulate.
If I was printing 24/7 or I was running a printer farm, my concern would be significantly higher.
If you are aware of coal miners and black lung, or asbestos and Mesothelioma, those were particulate exposure over time.
I worked in a large powerplant and we were constantly testing for both VOCâs, particulate and a whole host of other regulated emissions every year.
Anyone who is interested, you can monitor these items locally if you know Python programming. This data can be read via Home Assistant but that is something I have not messed with at all. You can also capture the data via Adafruitâs Adafruit Particulate Sensor , or their Adafruit air quality sensors
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I forgot to mention that there is also a way to read the sensors WITHOUT the need to use a Python script. Plug and play. Below are the ways to monitor data that I am aware of.
- Raspberry Pi + sensor + Python script
- Microcontroller + sensor + Adafruit IO* (free but limited, paid with unlimited data, devices. See link)
- Home Assistant which I know very little beyond it seemingly being the most popular home automation toolset
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Hi All,
I thought I would comment here as I just installed a fume extraction system for my P1P. I am in a similar situation as the OP - I have a printer in my bedroom apartment and I work in here a lot.
Before when I would print with ASA, it would smell very bad, and after watching Thomas Sanladererâs video on VOCs, it prompted me to finally do something.
I used a 6" semi-rigid duct from Home Depot, along with a 6" duct booster fan.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Suncourt-Inductor-6-in-Corded-In-Line-Duct-Fan-DB206C/206584745
The fan is mounted in a 3d printed adapter that exhausts out my window. Then the duct mounts to the bottom of the P1P so that there are no asymmetries with how the air is flowing in the printer. Then I went around and sealed the P1P as best I could with aluminum duct tape.
This seems to work very well, the exhaust fan is quiet, yet high enough static pressure so printer is always at negative pressure. Now when I print with ASA I cannot smell anything whatsoever. I do not have any VOC sensors, but this tells me it is doing something at least.
Only issue I have is what to do with the âpoop shootâ. I currently have some tape over the shoot and I empty it every few prints or so, but automating that would be nice.
Hope this helps!
