Anyone have any background info on why drying while printing is disabled? I mean now it’s kind of a useless feature if you run the printer 24 hours a day.
I understand that rotating the rolls when it’s not running provides the best drying experience, but I rather dry the new roll I just added to the AMS, that it switches over to when it runs out of the current one while it’s printing than having to externally dry all the rolls still.
I’m not talking about with a X1c but with the H2D, where heating is possible.
Just specifically disabled during prints, only possible when printer is stationary.
Filament at its drying temperature becomes soft. This is an issue for feeding from the AMS.
Filament will not be even in its moisture content from the exterior of the spool to the interior. Unless you have previously dried it… in which you don’t need to dry while printing.
It’s not a direct power issue as the AMS has the option for external 24v source.
That’s what desiccant inside the AMS is for. It’s an air tight container so if you dry the filament and keep the desiccant fresh while printing it’s a non-issue.
I feel people are confusing the mechanics of how filament is dried. The moisture has to be absorbed and removed from the AMS by airflow or desiccant both of which the AMS does. Just dry it prior to printing and maintain the desiccant. Won’t have any issues.
That’s exactly the point, we don’t want to dry it prior when it can dry it for us. Plenty of people seem to always print from within a dryer/filament still warm, especially indeed for keeping filaments dry that very much like to get moisture from the opposite side of the world if they get the chance.
So I get your drift but it also seems that with only 1 AMS, the drying is pretty, useless. So or you need to print sporadically or you need to have multiple AMS for the heating to make sense in the current implementation.
I don’t think you are tracking… no disrespect here.
If it takes 12 hours at 65c to dry a spool of PETG at what point do you expect to print from this spool? 5 hours in? 11 hours? If anything less than 12 hours then you will have a spool that’s potentially not fully dried and then you have inconsistencies from the outside of the spool to the inside.
The logic that has always existed is to dry the filament to completion prior to using it to print. Why would you ever start printing with a less than dry spool of hygroscopic material?
The AMS is air tight and has room for desiccant which keeps the filament dry when inside. Soooo again I say… use it to dry the filament as intended and it will stay dry inside the air tight AMS.
It’s hardly useless if it dries the filament exactly as advertised.
We had that discussion somewhere else, but it did not fit in the thread. I also had the opinion, that drying while printing makes no sense. It seems not logical me. But i was corrected, and it seems a lot of people are doing this. They say that it works fine for them.
My logic tells me, that you are right.
But if people did it differently, and it worked for them, i understand why they want to keep doing it as they always did.
I probably use my 2nd AMS 2 (or buy a 3rd one) as a dedicated dryer. I’m also of the opinion to first let it dry completely while rotating the spool and then use it to print. And if you don’t need that filament right away, it’ll still be good to go later since it’s being stored in a airtight container.
I also saw some people commenting that it defeats the whole purpose when you need to open the AMS and take out a spool, but unless something has changed with how humidity works, I don’t think a spool that was fully dried will be fully moist again when swapping it from one AMS to the other
I believe AnyCubic box specifically advertises drying while printing, so I figure it’s not an unreasonable request.
Also, what about printing hygroscopic filaments for 10h+ jobs? Aren’t they going to start degrading while the print is running?
Exactly lol. It’s not an instantaneous transfer or moisture into the filament. Most people here aren’t even using high end engineering filament. I have a lab oven I use to keep my higher end expensive spools dry before use.
I haven’t shopped or researched for any drying units lately. I found a Quincy lab oven new for $150 on eBay and put a PID controller on it for drying use.
Anything less than 85c I’ll be using the AMS HT since the lab oven costs more to heat up for just one or two spools.